Study Abroad 2024, Sicily

Ciao ragazzi 👋

I did a thing.

Amid challenging times, I made a bold decision: I left my job. I stepped away from security, growth, and a team I deeply cared for. I voluntarily parted ways, which is a polite way of saying, I’m open to new work opportunities.

I’ve taken this time to focus on something we often overlook and deprioritize: myself. I focused on my mental health, invested in my physical well-being, and fulfilled a long-held dream. I have just returned from a two-week solo trip to Sicily, where I enrolled in an Italian language school to brush up on the vocabulary I had lost since university.

Welcome to Solemar Academy - Lisa Vecchio — Welcome to Solemar Academy – Lisa Vecchio

It was a bit of an ‘Eat Pray Love’ moment or maybe just a midlife crisis, who knows, but admittedly I was scared. The feelings I experienced leading up to it were similar to when I first moved abroad from the US: to London (2003, 2006), then Australia (2011), then back to London (2015). Apprehension, excitement, and uncertainty about the unknown.

Let me be clear, there are no unlimited funds, and I’m in the midst of a pretty intense job search. Finding purpose and a long-term job in this economic climate won’t be easy, or quick. However, I learned a long time ago that life is worth living and to make the most of these gifts in breaks. Say yes…

So here I am at 40 studying abroad alone. I haven’t formally studied Italian since completing 4 years in high school and 2 semesters in university in 2001. We’re talking over 20 years ago! But it’s summer after all and I committed to making the most of the break, therefore I wanted to be in a place that felt like summer – sun, sea and gelato. Not necessarily holed up in a 2-bedroom apartment in the middle of London with pretty hit-or-miss weather.

Also, a long-term goal of Jamie and mine is to eventually afford to spend a portion of the year in London, and some of the warmer periods in Sicily. Brushing up on my rusty Italian seemed like a good place to start on making headway toward this future goal.

I started by initially researching language schools anywhere in Italy – Rome, Florence, Bologna and Tropea. But as I thought more about it, and was apprehensive about spending two weeks alone in an unfamiliar city, I turned back to Cefalu to see if there was a local language school. Cefalu is the town I got married in – I know it well and feel safe, I am also friendly with a few locals that I built relationships with over the last few years. And, it’s a beautiful seaside location for me to maximize sunbathing when I’m not studying. I got some feedback about Solemar Academy from a few locals before I enrolled, and stopped by to visit when Jamie and I were there this past June to celebrate our anniversary. It had glowing feedback! I just needed to find the courage to pull the trigger….

Arriving in Cefalu

Arriving by train from Palermo Airport, as soon as I saw the peaks of the Cathedral and the towering mountain known as La Rocca in the distance, I smiled and my heart was at ease. This makes me feel at home. I entered into Cefalu’s old town and immediately sat at a cafe in Piazza Garibaldi. ‘Posso avere un gelato al pistacchio e un caffè, per favore?’ Let’s jump straight in, ice cream and coffee, stat.

Little did I anticipate that I would need to drag my large suitcase up the steep mountainside before arriving at my vacation rental for the next two weeks. It was a sweaty journey in the heat, but perfect, nestled at the base of La Rocca, in a quiet neighbourhood on the fringe of the old and new town, surrounded by the sound of locals chatting away in the evening, baby cats (gattino) sunbathing on the cobblestones, and a view of both the sea and mountain. I couldn’t have asked for more. My emotions came rushing through, I had a little cry of gratitude and then went off into town to get stuck in.

The first stop I made was to Lido Pura Vida. Jamie and I are friendly with the owner Oswaldo, as it’s the beach club where we hosted our post-wedding recovery party. I wanted to say hello to give him a heads-up that I’m alone and will be using his beach fairly regularly over the next two weeks. I treated myself to a cheeky Spritz as the sun was starting to set over the ocean and took it all in.

Sprtiz at Lido Pura Vida — Lido Pura Vida, Cefalu

Then, I went to Al Gabbiano for a quick bite. It’s one of Jamie and I’s favourite waterfront dining spots. I had a delicious, yet simple calamarata with swordfish dish. As it was my first night, I wanted to get back to the apartment before it got dark out, but not before stopping off at Cefalu Cathedral to give a nod to the big guy. The scaffolding that was up during our wedding ceremony has been taken down and the beautiful mosaic of Christ Pantocrator has been restored to all its glory.

Once home, I was keen to put my feet up, enjoy the cool breeze on my balcony and settle into a good book. I was all ready for my first day of school in the morning.

Week 1

Monday: My first day of school

Today I met students Kerstin (from Stuttgart) and Sophie (from Paris) when I arrived at Solemar Academy, which is located in the heart of the new town off of Via Roma. We sat outside on the terrace, chatting away over a coffee while discussing in anticipation what our new learning experience would be like, and what led us all to the school and to study Italian. While the others were multilingual, we chose English as a common denominator, mostly for my sake. Before I knew it, I was asked to come into the classroom for a short interview. A bit overwhelmed, I walked into a room with 4 teachers sitting across a long table as if it was set up for a panel interview. Marco started by asking me in Italian, where I was from, when I last studied Italian, what I do for work, etc. I understood the questions being asked, responded in my best broken Italian, and shared that it would be perfectly reasonable if I needed to start back at the most basic level. Simona from Solemar was super encouraging, and after assessing the placement test I submitted in advance and the conversation that just took place, she shared that I would be in level A2 (lower-intermediate). I’d be paired in a small group with Martina (64, Switzerland) and my teacher Alessandro for the first week.

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After finishing my first lessons today, my brain actually hurt. For nearly 3 hours, from 9-to-12, Alessandro led the session in Italian, and Martina and I did our best to respond and participate. ‘Piano piano’ was Alessandro’s coined phrase, meaning slowly slowly. He was very patient and encouraging.

Martina has been studying here for 3 weeks and this week is her last. She is much more comfortable than I am, and her pronunciation is more advanced. We discussed that as a result of my native language being English, and not often using some of the facial muscles required – wide open mouth, rolling R’s, this was likely the cause of my struggles. While I can understand a lot of what Alessandro was teaching, albeit would have benefitted from a verb refresher as my 11th grade Italian came rushing back, it was pretty clear my pronunciation is absolutely shit.

By the end of the session, I was ready for a break. After school, I grabbed a takeaway panino from Foodda, then went directly to Pura Vida to lie in the sun for a few hours. On the way home I went to the grocery store to stock up my fridge and was so exhausted I was early to bed.

Wednesday: Hump day

After a few days I realized that paying to go to Oswaldo’s Lido every day wasn’t realistic as it was getting expensive, so this afternoon after school I simply took my towel and laid it out directly onto the sand under the ancient old town walls, just as the locals do on ‘spiaggia libera’ (free beach). It was bliss. I even swam twice (which is rare for me) and started reading my second book. Reflecting on how anxious I was to come and be alone it was a relief to recognise that I was doing just fine. Cefalu is comfortable and safe. I reminded myself why I was there – for a rest, a break, a reward, and further encouraged myself to not feel guilty for the nap, or the cannolo… or two. YOLO. In fact, when I finished at the beach I went to eat an arancino too!

Arancina Siciliana — Spiaggia Libera, Cefalu

Alessandro is a great teacher and so patient. Martina is becoming a friend. I’m already wondering once she leaves at the end of the week how the dynamic of the classroom may change depending on who joins next, and also if I will swap teachers for my second week of classes.

Last night the school arranged an aperitivo at the local craft beer bar Kalapinta. It was an opportunity for the teachers and students to converse freely (in any language) and have some social time outside the classroom. It was so fun being together (5x teachers & 7x students) just casually chatting over beers, negronis, spritz and stuzzichini (small bites like olives and potato chips). It was an interesting mix of cultures. In addition to Martina, Kersten and Sophie, I also met Malte (28, Germany), Nizam (19, France), and Hiroko (Japan). I felt really at ease being surrounded by such gifted people. Many shared similar stories of being burnt out from their jobs and just wanting to take a break for themselves. It was relatable.

After, we all headed to Al Gabbiano (again, I know) for some pizza and pasta. I had one of my favourite Italian dishes ‘pasta con le sarde’ (pasta with sardines).

Apertivo at Kalapinta Pub — Pasta con le sarde

Friday: The end of the beginning

This week has flown by. I got a bit emotional finishing school today having to say goodbye to Martina and Alessandro. Martina has finished her 3 weeks of studies and is heading back to Switzerland where she can freely be a mountain goat, according to her (haha). Alessandro was taking a different group of students on an excursion somewhere else in Sicily so he isn’t my teacher next week. Luckily, the 3 of us and a few others shared a last hoorah meal at one of the best restaurants in Cefalu called B.I.F which specializes in steak and has a great wine cellar.

Reflecting on the week of Italian lessons, I was proud of how far I’ve come. I learned some new words and even the Italian slang ‘chillare’ – to chill out. I also studied the future tense and brushed up on my verbs. My pronunciation still stuffers but I know I need to put in more practice. I also assumed I’d be ‘living’ more in my apartment before I came to this experience but it turned out the school provided such a haven, each night I had dinner or a few drinks in the square with people from my course.

I also climbed La Rocca yesterday which is one of my favorite things to do in Cefalu. I was so full of joy and appreciation. Being in my favourite place, taking a mental break, with a lot of gratitude for Jamie and my family for supporting me in jetting off. I’m so grateful for this experience. La dolce vita!

Week 2

Monday: Round two begins

My friend Rachael joined me in Palermo over the weekend. Spending time in the city made me realize how much I love it! We stayed near Capo Market which was perfect for visiting Via Maqueda which is a pedestrian street with loads of restaurants and bars and it’s super safe. I also showed her the trendy neighbourhood of La Kalsa where we watched England play in the Euros. We ended up later that night in Vucciria Market which is a bit crazy but always a fun time and a great vibe.

The next day we explored the shops along Via Emmanuele before heading to Antico Mercato. It’s only open on Sundays for some beautiful antique hunting. It was also my first time at the buzzing and famous Ballaro Market, where the food vendors shout out to tourists and you can eat a variety of street food, from fried fish, fresh fruit, handmade arancini, you name it. It’s a bit overwhelming to the senses and can be a bit crowded but it’s a must-visit for anyone in Palermo. I couldn’t believe I had never been before and I’ll definitely go back.

Also, today is the start of my second week back at school and I have a new teacher, Davide. I already got to know him while at aperitivo last week and he is also a very kind and patient teacher. My new classmate is called Stanislov (19, Ukraine) and he is a bit shy and less sociable than Martina. Davide took us both for a walk to a local cafe to demonstrate how to order a coffee in Italy – when you order ‘un caffe’ it’s an espresso that you drink while standing at the bar, then pay over the counter when you finish. Remember, no cappuccino after 12!

Thursday: It’s nearly time to go home

Today is my last full day on the beach and I’m already getting sad that my two weeks are coming to an end. Where did the time go? I want to just float here in the ocean longer, admiring how warm and clear the water is. Watching families on their summer break, children and friends laughing and smiling. I know it’s only mid-July but I don’t want summer to end and I’m hearing horror stories about the weather back in London. Starring back at La Rocca and the Cathedral, I remember how this view from the water made Jamie and I fall in love with Cefalu in the first place. I feel so lucky.

I now have new friends. Alessandro, Davide, Giueseppe, Simona and Marco from Solemar Academy. Francesco the estate agent of my rental property. Antonio the owner of Kalapinta. My classmates – a teacher from France, a judge from Germany, a chemist from Czechia, and many others – we’re all here alone, soul searching, prioritizing ourselves. And old friends too… Oswaldo from the beach bar, Valentina my wedding planner, Davide from La Brace and Manu the waitress from the Duomo. I also have had new experiences at restaurants and shops that I had never been to before.

Lisa Vecchio & David Cesare - Solemar Academy

I was so anxious to come but it’s exactly what I needed. Do I have more clarity on what my next job will be? Not really, but it was nice to not have to stress for a short while and if saying no to opportunities that don’t feel right count, I did that plenty.

Am I any better at speaking Italian? Not really. In fact, on my last day at Lido Pura Vida, I tried to explain to Oswaldo in my Italian that Rachael would be joining me soon. He laughed and replied, ‘Oh Lisa, e molto brutta!’ – basically my speaking was that bad in his view but I merely replied as Alessandro would, ‘piano piano’. I’m proud of the effort I put in for 3 hours a day over the last two weeks. I feel that little bit closer to my future dual residence vision.

So what’s next? I’m back in London finalizing some interviews and getting ready to fly to the US to see my family in mid-August. But also, between now and then I have enrolled in an online class with Alessandro, 45 minutes 2x a week for the next 3x weeks. It’s a good start until I hopefully return again to Solemar next year.

Salemar Academy Completion Certificate - Lisa Vecchio — Salemar Academy Completion Certificate – Lisa Vecchio

Minimoon in San Vito lo Capo

Some have said that we should keep San Vito our little secret, but this small seaside town in the province of Trapani in northwestern Sicily is far from being undiscovered, or at least by local Sicilians who descend in the peak summer season with a frenzy due to it being voted one of the most beautiful beaches in all of Sicily. Naturally, this is what drew Jamie and me here for our post-wedding minimoon.

As first-time visitors, the main attraction was the 3 km long stretch of sandy beach – and trust me, many beaches in Sicily are full of rocks, let alone pink (yes pink!) sand, so this is the first win. The water, crystal clear, with blue and green hues that flow into shades of turquoise and aqua-marine, is a sight itself. It’s such a great visual landscape, with the massive rock Monte Monaco towering over the awarded Blue Flag beach. It goes without saying that the best way to spend your time is sunbathing and taking a refreshing dip.

Pink sand, San Vito lo Capo — Monte Monaco, San Vito lo Capo

The vibe in San Vito is completely different to anywhere else we’ve been in Sicily. Hidden away from the mass tourist hot spots, this is a local’s playground. English is less common than in other parts of Sicily, and it’s not an easy spot for foreign tourists to get to without a car, which is highly recommended to hire. But what was most surprising was the architecture. I was expecting a full-on beach vibe but less so the Arab-Norman influence, square, flat-roofed and dust-collared buildings which felt like we were straight out of Casablanca or Indiana Jones (hint, scenes of Indiana Jones 5 were filmed there).

The Sanctuary of San Vito Lo Capo — Jamie Synan, Streets of San Vito

The beautiful San Vito beach is lined with a lot of beach vendors to rent sun beds and umbrellas from, or you have the option to find a free spot for your BYO towel. Renting a sun bed is more or less a similar cost at each unless you get a discount from your hotel, and be prepared to be approached by Thai masseuses who walk around offering 20 Euro full body massages. It’s not a bad deal, we actually asked the same lady to visit us 3 days in a row because she was so good. Just be careful to wash the baby oil (OMG I know) off immediately after.

There are many other beaches nearby if you have a car, many of which you’ll find quieter with just a handful of visitors, albeit no facilities, yet a special slice of heaven just for you. The suggested way to visit is to drive to the Riserva Dello Zingaro and then explore the 7km long coastal stretch from San Vito to Castellammare del Golfo(another place I highly recommend a visit!) – this is your chance to be one with nature and visit unspoilt and purely breathtaking beauty which can only be reached on foot.

Another way to visit is through a boat excursion. We opted for Marlin as it was suggested by our accommodation, Artemide Hotel (which we recommend for their roof top plunge pool!). The weather wasn’t great on the day of our boat trip, and our hotel suggested going in the morning as the sea can get very chopping in the afternoon. We headed on board with Captain Luigi and a few other families to explore the coastline along Zingaro, and not only was the natural scenery and little hidden coves an amazing sight, but we also spotted many ruins from old Torre’s (castles), random cows on cliffs, and a pod of dolphins. A highlight was sipping wine and devouring typical local sandwiches of anchovies, tomatoes, olive oil, oregano and goat cheese while overlooking the village of Scopello, known for its magical scenery.

What to eat in San Vito lo Capo?

Back in San Vito, the main artery of the town is Via Savoia where you’ll find plenty of choice for shopping, apertivo, snack bars and fantastic dining options – the menu you will find here is very local and different to what you’d expect if you’ve spent your time in Palermo or Catania provinces – it’s more expensive, yet also felt more gourmet and totally unique to other regional cuisines due to its N. African and Tunisian influence. But really awesome. When dining out, I’d recommend not to overlook getting lost in the side streets for some true gems.

Mural, San Vito lo Capo — Shopping Via Savoia, San Vito lo Capo

A few dishes you absolutely have to try in the Trapani province.

Cous Cous – this Northern African dish is also synonymous with Western Sicily, which some first-time visitors might find as a surprise. You may even want to visit during the annual Cous Cous Fest which takes place each September.
Caldo Fredo (Hot Cold) is a sort of gelato known in the Trapani providence having originated in San Vito. It consists of gelato (traditionally coffee, pistachio or chocolate), hot chocolate sauce, and a medallion of sponge cake soaked in rum. A great spot to try this is at Caffè Savoia, right in the heart of town next to the main church.
Busiate (or busiati),a long macaroni pasta shaped in a cork-screw which you’ll find on nearly every menu.

As you do in Sicily, for the week we spent in San Vito, each evening we’d wander throughout the town and have an apertivo before dinner. While we tried a few different places, our favourite was Ni Mia where we befriended a friendly, English-speaking waiter called Martin. He had a tattoo “Why Not’ across his chest, an inside joke to Jamie and me after our recent wedding, yet we became disappointed when we learned it was because he’s a big fan of the show Peaky Blinders. Ni Mia does great apertivo options with spritzes, craft beer and little complimentary croutons with salt and rosemary which were divine. We also recommend Pepper Jam right on the beach as a nice spot to grab a drink and listen to some groovy music.

Where to eat in San Vito lo Capo?

Ristorante Profumi di Cous Cous was by far our best cous cous experience. The options were varied and it was such a lovely atmosphere to dine in the open garden. They even offer a half-and-half version of their signature cous cous so you can try more than one. Jamie opted for the meat and pesto, while I went for the traditional fish and pesto options. We also had an excellent and reasonably priced raw fish platter to start.

Ristorante Profumi di Cous Cous - Takeaway — Ristorante Profumi di Cous Cous

Ristorantino Crik & Croc was a top favourite, the presentation was gorgeous and the menu was quite varied to many of the other popular spots that seemed to start to blend together.

La Zagara came highly recommended and their seared tuna and polpo (octopus) were among the top meals we had in the town.

Tasty Panioteco is in a great location on the beach which makes it perfect for snacks, granita and lunch on the go, plus the owner is hilarious and makes quite a spectacle for his customers.

Gna Sara is one of the most recommended restaurants in town. We enjoyed our meal, but it wasn’t overly memorable.

Syrah was recommended by Rita at Hotel Kalura in Cefalu who highly suggested we get the shared cous cous with traditional seafood and all the trimmings for 50 Euro. It was delicious and we were overwhelmed with the amount of food but the service faltered and for that reason, we likely wouldn’t return.

We didn’t eat here but I also had recommendations for:

Le Barrique
Disio Ristorante
Ruggirello Carni Dal 1984
Ristorante Rais

5 Things To Do in the rain in San Vito?

While I don’t have an exhaustive list, on the two back-to-back days it rained while we were visiting we found refuge from the rain by:

Going for a run in the rain to the lighthouse (Faro). It’s one of the unique symbols of San Vito lo Capo with a beam that can reach 20 nautical miles. You’ll see it most nights!
Visit a day spa. We spent the afternoon at Mira Spiaggia and highly recommend it, just book ahead. For only 30 Eur per person, we had access to the spa for 3 hours (jacuzzi, hammam, sauna), a relaxation room overlooking the sea, and reasonably priced messages as well.
Do your laundry. There is self-service at Presto Pulito and Speed Queen.
Pop inside the San Vito Sanctuary, in the heart of the main square, with sacred items dedicated to the faithful San Vito.
Visit Trapani. We attempted this, but outside of peak summer season the buses are too infrequent and we were concerned would maybe get stuck so I’d only really suggest if you have a hire car.
Take the cable car to Erice from Trapani – the historic medieval town set high on a hill overlooking Trapani.

Faro di Capo San Vito — Spa, Mira Spiaggia

To be really honest, we weren’t sure if we liked San Vito at first (gasp!) It was far too different than what we expected (whatever that was I can’t say), but after a week, it really grew on us. Rested in honeymoon bliss, from there we were off to Castellammare del Golfo, and I’d say def give it a visit too!

Reconnecting with Melbourne

7 years. Holy cow, 7 years. When I left Australia in 2015, after living there for nearly half a decade, I never thought it would be so long since I would visit again. I became an Aussie citizen before leaving, so I had assumed I’d travel back at a minimum every few years and maybe even one day have a second home there. But year after year my reunion trip had been delayed, first due to finances, then to covid, then deprioritised for trips to the USA to see family. When my life took another sudden turn and I lost my job this past October, enough I said, this was my time to finally reconnect with the land down under.

Aussie passport - on my way to Aussieland! — Aussie passport – on my way to Aussieland!

It’s important for me to note that I didn’t leave Australia because I hated it. In fact, I loved it! So much so that I started to feel too disconnected from the life I had come from. There was also the small fact that friends or family didn’t visit, and so it always felt temporary, far away, and like I couldn’t settle. It goes without saying that I have no regrets about the fantastic life I’ve built in London with my partner Jamie, but over these last 7 years, I dearly missed my friends and the accessibility to that part of the world.

So I finally bit the bullet and booked my much overdue flight to Aus. That alone was the toughest part – knowing how long to spend there, which friends I could see, and even which cities to visit considering it’s such a large country and it felt impossible to get to Melbourne, Sydney, and Brisbane all in the same trip. Unfortunately, I now regret not leaving enough time to see people I love who I didn’t get the chance to meet up with.

Leading up to my flight I was a ball of nerves. All of a sudden I forgot how to fly long haul, despite doing it so many times before. Just the thought of nearly 24 hours on a plane gave me severe anxiety. I revisited my old blog, The Art of a Long Haul Flight, to bring me back into the swing of things. Oh, I was pretty funny back then I thought to myself.

So off I went, totally excited that I scored my favourite seat on the plane (upper deck, front row), albeit not on my favourite airline Qantas – and yes, of course, it is totally reasonable to have a favourite plane seat. Flying the first leg was fun even until I laid over in Qatar and switched planes, only to be sandwiched super tight – the guy in front with the seat reclined, the guy next to me overextending into my space, baby behind me, which meant I couldn’t recline. What joy for FOURTEEN HOURS! But alas, I finally made it to Melbourne.

Day 1 – My Old Stomping Grounds

The minute I walked out of Richmond Station an overwhelming feeling poured over me. It was quite unnerving as if I stepped back in time and into another life. As I wandered down Swan Street, smiling as I recognised my favourite bars and restaurants, I experienced such an unexpected wave of emotions. The minute I saw Dickmann Street, where I first lived when I moved to Melbourne, I stifled the urge to cry.

My first stop was for lunch with my friend Jesse at a cheerful Mexican place I used to eat at often, Fonda. I quickly recognised my old top choices on the menu, the fish burrito and chargrilled corn – they instantaneously brought me back on the first bite. I then walked up Church Street to Bridge Road, by nature turned right and walked toward my old home on River Street where I lived with Wes. Everything felt so familiar, I couldn’t help but smile and my heart filled up with happiness.

Walking up and down Bridge Road was such a pastime for me because it’s how I used to kill time when I was bored. I’d walk about a mile there, and a mile back looking in the shops, having brunch and just basically using it as a place to be with my thoughts. Even when I passed by the Dan Murphys liquor store and the sliding doors opened, the smell of it put me back to where I used to buy my weekly wine shop, I could picture exactly which aisle to go to. Then I passed the Spread Eagle Hotel, remembering its famous steak night, brunch at Lumberjack, drinks at LadyBoy, and shopping at the Gorman Surprise outlet. It was a nice familiar feeling despite many elements of change as too many of my other favourite spots went out of business over the years.

After I was done roaming around I Richmond I jumped onto the tram from Swan Street, a bit hesitant, despite it being a regular form of transport that I used to take daily, and headed toward trendy Fitzroy. Or at least I thought I was heading in that direction, as I sat on the 86 tram the wrong way and wasted a good 20 minutes before finding my way back to the corner of Gertrude and Smith Street. I popped into the Rollie Nation store, my favourite Aussie shoe brand, and bought myself a pair before meeting Hannah at a hot new bar and bistro called Poodle. It was so lovely to settle in with Hannah and finally meet her new husband over a super yummy meal, it felt like our old times being together full of laughter and gossip.

Coming home to Anne Marie’s house that evening in a taxi I really felt enlightened and quite excited to finally be there for those first 24 hours. It only hit me then. Hey, I used to own this city I said to myself. I used to know every new restaurant and bar opening and be at all the coolest hangouts and here I am again ready to experience it all with my same friends. It was a fantastic first day and gave me so much to look forward to.

Day 2 – Reunited At Last

I was grateful to Anne Marie for letting me stay at hers in the cute suburb of Yarraville. We woke up to go for a long run around her neighbourhood before heading into the CBD (central business district) to play tourist and walk around Melbourne’s famous graffiti-clad lanes. We then parked ourselves back at our old local stomping grounds in Richmond, and sat outside The Posty where we used to go for after-work drinks and pizza, people-watching as cool kids went in and out of the famous music spot The Corner Hotel.

Flinders Station, Melbourne — The Corner Hotel, Richmond

Wes and Rob, my two really good friends joined us there and we immediately fell back into our old ways, it was a heartfelt reunion after all those years apart. Our highlight was a full-tasting menu across the street at New Quarter, where the food was absolutely show-stopping. In fact, I’d even go as far as to say that it was the best meal I’ve had on that trip (tip: try the banh mi fingers). We ended the evening next door at a new cocktail bar called The Blacksmith Bar and OMG the cocktails were so delicious, I can only imagine that if I still lived there we’d get into a lot of trouble.

Lisa & Wes, New Quarter, Richmond, Victoria

Oysters at New Quarter, Richmond — Lisa & Wes, New Quarter, Richmond, Victoria

Day 3 – Food For Days

Call it jetlag or the cocktails but I slept until midday. Luckily, Anne Marie went to the local deli Rocco’s to grab some delicious prosciutto, olive and artichoke sandwiches. We spent the afternoon walking around Yarraville (I recommend coffee at Willis and Anderson), then to the shops and boutiques in Seddon (Kith&Kin is one of my favourite boutiques for clothes), and then onto multicultural Footscray before completing our 10k walk.

That evening we headed out to Curious in the W Hotel for pre-dinner drinks and the ultimate Insta-worthy snap. Despite the $25, yet delicious cocktails, the best part was the interesting interior design. Dinner followed at Chancery Lane on Little Collins Street, naturally with bumps of caviar (my first time!), chicken liver parfait, and an outstanding steak shared at the table. While the service was hit and miss, the funky bathrooms are totally worth a peek.

It was here that I was first reminded again of how much everyone knows their Australian wines, often prioritised over ‘foreign’ wines and I was envious of that as I used to be so much more clued in than I am now. This is what I missed about the local Aussie scene: Rob rambling off Aussie wine labels and collectively they all agreed, as of course, they all know them. European wines are so much more complicated.

Chicken liver parfait, Chancery Lane, Melbourne

Caviar bumps, Chancery Lane, Melbourne — Chicken liver parfait, Chancery Lane, Melbourne

We finished the night at Luis Bar on the 55th floor of the second tallest building in the city, Rialto. The service was quite snobby and we had to do a minimum spend which was a bit off-putting so I probably wouldn’t go back but for the view over Melbourne and the laughs with friends, it was still worth it as a one-off.

Day 4 – All About Balance

Anne Marie and I drove over to Williamstown, Melbourne’s first port settlement, which was a great place to enjoy a long walk and coastal views. I was also grateful that it was also the first day not raining since I arrived. I really felt at ease being back in Australia and just enjoyed the time catching up with an old friend.

View of Melbourne from Williamstown, Victoria — Williamstown, Victoria

We later stopped off at Rob‘s to have some cheese and wine before heading to Smile Buffalo, an upscale Thai restaurant in downtown Yarraville. I started to realize a theme developing of long day walks and intense evening eating and it was starting to take its toll, but I was only getting started!

Day 5 – The Yazza Vazza

Wine Tasting in the Yarra Valley is something that both locals and tourists often do when in Melbourne. For my squad, it was a favourite pastime that I couldn’t miss out on. Luckily, Wes organized a private day trip with Rick’s Wine Tours and we had lovely Cindy guiding us throughout the day.

Stop 1: Hubert’s Estate

The grounds are absolutely breathtaking but Rob was disappointed that the tasting only included the bottle shop quality wines (not the cellar door exclusives). They also have a restaurant on site and an art gallery in the basement featuring indigenous artwork which is worth a visit.

Wine Tasting, Hubert’s Estate, Yarra Valley — Stag, Hubert’s Estate, Yarra Valley

Stop 2: Soumah

Soumah was by far the best service of the whole day. We loved their chardonnay and viognier, cute and warm decor and enjoyed a long lunch with big portions. Following lunch we sat outside and enjoyed a bottle of chardonnay among us, talking about our past wine trips in the Yarra Valley, Mornington Pennisula, Bellerine, Tasmania, Adelaide and others. I really missed being in touch with Australia and the wine scene. Before leaving, it didn’t take much to convince me to buy 3 bottles and score a lovely wine tote bag as a free gift. I highly recommend this vineyard and its wines!

Charcuterie platter, Soumah, Yarra Valley

Wine bag, courtesty of Soumah — Charcuterie platter, Soumah, Yarra Valley

Stop 3: Levantine Hill Estate

A visit to Levantine was a special upgrade request from Wes. It’s a place to be seen, with helicopters dropping in the elite from the Crown Casino for $1100 per person, and their sparkling Rose starts at a high price of $150 per bottle if you get the drift. We weren’t too impressed with the snooty service either, despite our tasting being held in a very picture-worthy oversized barrel. Luckily, the marketing director was on site and took over with generous pours and carefree chat which redeemed the whole experience. We love a host who doesn’t mind a cheeky top-up. 😉

Barrel tasting, Levantine Estate, Yarra Valley

Barrel tasting, Levantine Estate, Yarra Valley

Stop 4: Helen & Joey Estate

Unicorns, a great view, and cheese platters. What more could you ask for?! We really enjoyed finishing our day at Helen & Joey’s. Our host Phil was super friendly and we couldn’t leave without a few pinot noirs from their Alena selection.

Unicorn at Helen & Joey's, Yarra Valley — Unicorn at Helen & Joey’s, Yarra Valley

Cheese platter, Helen & Joeys, Yarra Valley — Unicorn at Helen & Joey’s, Yarra Valley

It was such a fab day, full of giggles we were super smug that we coined the Yarra Valley a new term, the Yazza Vazza! It was at that point, a bit buzzed from the day’s wines, sentimental about my friendships and after such a fantastic reconnection with Aussie wine culture that the tear’s started to fall.

Later that evening we had a gathering at Wes’s to sample all the wine purchases from the day and then I had to say goodbye to Anne Marie and Rob, at least until I’ll see them next year at our wedding in Sicily. Oh, I was so sad… I thought to myself for the first, but not the last time, “should I try and stay a bit longer?!”

Day 6 – The Melbourne Cup

In the morning, Wes and I took his dog Freda for a long walk around the neighbourhood of Baldwin. I used to know Freda really well as she lived with us for a period so it made me really sad that she didn’t even recognize me. I wasn’t sure if she was just pretending like she didn’t know me because she was mad at me for leaving her all those years ago or if her life is so good living amongst three other hotdog dogs, she doesn’t need her old mother anymore.

My last day was Melbourne Cup day. This horse race is such a big deal, it’s literally a holiday off work for some companies. We celebrated the Melbourne Cup back at Wes’s friend Russell’s house, a beautiful flat with floor-to-ceiling windows on each side overlooking my old neighbourhood of Richmond. It was a fab day of drinking champagne, dining on frittatas and cheering on the horse race as the only female among nine gay men. In the end, Wes and I got lucky with a bet and finished $175 up, so when we said goodbye to the group we wandered back down Swan Street for one final meal, just him and I back at New Quarter where we sat at the bar drinking margaritas and tasted the best banh mi fingers I’ve ever had in my life. It was a quiet night after that before beginning my journey down to Sydney in the morning.

Banh mi fingers, New Quarter restaurant, Melbourne

Cheers to besties at New Quarter, Melbourne — Banh mi fingers, New Quarter restaurant, Melbourne

Oh, Melbourne, full of delicious food, buzzing culture and some of my best friends, I’m so happy to have seen you again. Thank you, Anne Marie, Simon, Wes, Rob, Meryl, Hannah, Jesse and all the new friends I met too!

Cefalu or Mondello?

When making a trip to the motherland, it can be difficult to visit the best of Sicily in a short space of time. Cefalu (Chef-a-lu) however, is one destination I have no regrets for choosing. There’s no other word to describe it, absolutely perfect. The fresh pasta, seafood and hello… cannolis, rich history, exquisite architecture combined with crystal clear beaches – you can’t go wrong and without a doubt, I’ll be back.

So it’s interesting how we ended up in Cefalu. You see, when my boyfriend Jamie gifted me a roundtrip flight to Palermo for Christmas, that’s where he intended to go. Palermo – end of the line. (We’ll just casually brush aside that my family roots are from the Catania metropolis near the base of Mt. Etna.) But once I started going down a rabbit hole of researching the best and must-visits of the Palermo region, Cefalu was a choice I couldn’t ignore.

For Sicilians, summer months are spent at the beach. The streets of Palermo become deserted as locals head out to Mondello and the surrounding beaches for the day. To give them credit, a Sicilian tan is a hefty goal I’m not ashamed to aim for either. But I started stumbling across forum after forum posing the almighty question:

Which beach town is better, Mondello or Cefalu?!

Mondello is local. It’s only 15-minutes from downtown Palermo and has some of the most stunning coastline you’ll ever see. Period. But public transportation in Sicily is horrendously unreliable, driving is a death-sentence and taking a taxi is sacrilegious. Staying downtown in Palermo during the evening and sunning ourselves on Mondello’s beaches in the afternoon just wasn’t feasible as a tourist over a five-day period.

Cefalu on the other hand offers the best of both worlds. Known as one of the finest resort towns in Italy, it combines remarkable beaches with an authentic, historical and visually mesmerising center all in one small village. Plus, it’s only an hour direct train from Palermo (6.20 Euro) so it was beyond easy to combine the two destinations.

My favourite part of Cefalu was simply – all of it – looking at it, eating in it, and living amongst it. We stayed at Hotel Riva Del Sole (and loved Pasticceria Gelateria Tentazioni Giuseppe next door for a daily espresso pick me up). The hotel was modest and slightly dated but had a rooftop and balcony overlooking the sea and the service was friendly enough. There are also many affordable Airbnbs overlooking the seafront to consider as well.

So when in Cefalu it’s perfectly acceptable, in fact, assumed that you’ll be sunning on the beach during the day, sipping an aperitif at sunset and socialising in the main piazza after a late dinner in town.

Being in Cefalu felt like a proper holiday. We’d put our daybed request in the night before (25-30 Euro for two beds and an umbrella for the day) at Lido Pura Vida as we had a 20% discount through our hotel, but there are many that line the beach if you arrive early enough, and spent all day sipping Sicilian Morettis and taking a welcome relief from the hot sun in the aqua blue water.

Grinning from ear to ear…

“Do you love it? Because I love it. I mean I really love it! Look at this water though! Are you thinking what I’m thinking? This is the best place in the world.”

The sand soft on your toes (after you get over the first few feet of rocks), the water shallow and warm on your body – even better, no weird bits. Floating with not a care in the world, looking back at the charming Porta Pescara hugging the coastline, the cathedral standing high and the mesmerising backdrop of La Rocca mountain towering over the town (if only we had time to climb it), it was bliss.

Eating in Sicily is an event in itself, but eating in Cefalu is an experience.

You’ll never accomplish it all your first time around as there is just too much choice. Dining on seafood in the open air, watching the sunset while sipping an aperitif, and letting the hours run away from you while listening to live music under the evening lights of the Duomo. Pure magic.

They say cannoli a day keeps the doctor away! No, not really but I still had a minimum one a day just in case.

Cannoli from TINCHITE' Taverna & Putia — Cannoli from TINCHITE’ Taverna & Putia

Where we ate in Cefalu

Al Gabbiano is the first place we ate when we arrived in Cefalu and I’d go back in a heartbeat. Overlooking the busy beachfront, the fresh seafood with homemade pasta, exquisite yet affordable Sicilian rose and friendly service made our experience here a memorable first impression.

Enoteca le Petit Tonneau is a very small enoteca with one of the best sunset views in town. Snag one of the 3 tables on the veranda to devour charcuterie and a carafe of wine. The place itself is instaworthy but has limited capacity so book ahead.

Sunset, Enoteca le Petit Tonneau, Cefalu

Charcuterie plater, Enoteca le Petit Tonneau, Cefalu — Charcuterie platter, Enoteca le Petit Tonneau, Cefalu

Ristorante Kentia al Trappitu – the food was delicious but honestly, even during the day when we felt very underdressed in our bathers considering the upmarket decour, the view outside took our breath away and all our shame went with it. Anywhere on this street you won’t be disappointed dining during the day or at sunset considering the location.

The terrace at Ristorante Kentia al Trappitu

The view at Ristorante Kentia al Trappitu

Bar Duomo has been one of the most popular food destinations in all of Cefalu since 1952. It’s best known for its gelato and desserts, but it’s also perfect for cocktails and people watching to the beat of live jazz under the lights of the town’s famous cathedral. With my ultimate dream combo of negroni and cannoli in hand, I was in heaven.

TINCHITE’ Taverna & Putia was recommended by a local and so we tried their tasting menu. Frankly, we found it very filling but a bit overrated as it was quite modern. The cannoli here was one of my favorites, but we preferred to dine more traditionally for the remainder of our trip.

Tasting menu at TINCHITE' Taverna & Putia — Tasting menu at TINCHITE’ Taverna & Putia

Where to eat in Cefalu (that we missed out on):

Bastione is a centre of innovation, food and culture. It’s reputation suggests it’s meant to be an amazing experience of learning about the area from a sustainable perspective, but we unfortunately didn’t have time to splurge on their tasting menu at Bastione & Costanza.

Ristorante e pizzeria Baglio del Falco is set in a rustic garden just outside Cefalu center. We considered taking a taxi just to experience this setting (which has great reviews) but ultimately decided to stay local.

Cortile Pepe and Le Chat Noir are very close to the cathedral and also came recommended by locals but as I’ve mentioned, in Cefalu there’s too much choice and often not enough time.

After leaving Cefalu we had two nights in the center of Palermo, and even made the day trip (we took the forbidden taxi) to Mondello. I’ll tell you about it in my next blog. But the moral of this story is… I love Cefalu. I love Sicily. And I will be back!

Top of my list to visit in Sicily include:

Taormina
Catania
Linguaglossa (where my heritage is from)
Favignana
Syracusa
Trapani
And the list goes on….

Romantic Sunset, Enoteca le Petit Tonneau, Cefalu

To Margate, With Love From London

For Londoners, a getaway to the quintessential English seaside is the ultimate summer thrill – that is when you’re on lockdown and leaving the country isn’t really an option. Fish and chips by the sea, sunbathing near brightly coloured beach sheds and devouring rock candy to the sound of children in arcades is just what the doctor ordered. Here are the highlights from our staycation in the seaside towns of Margate and Broadstairs in Kent.

Family holiday in Broadstairs, Kent

A train from London Victoria to Margate is a breezy 1 hour 50 minutes, even faster when going at high speed via St Pancras. Pack the bag full of snacks and it beats flying any day. Margate has a history with Londoners, being a leading seaside resort over the centuries it has also had its highs and lows. In fact, it went from being quite dishevelled and rundown with the closure of vintage theme park Dreamland but has had its revival since it reopened and is now very popular with Londoners chasing housing prices that can actually put them on the property ladder. It’s nicknamed Shoreditch-by-the-sea, inundated by a culture-lead generation of East London hipsters who have chosen life in a quiet seaside town over the hustle of the big smoke.

Dreamland, Margate

But that’s not all that makes Margate an ideal destination for a short holiday. Sure, it’s got a massive main beach and a host of great seafood restaurants, but also tucked away in Old Town you’ll find an abundance of quirky antique and vintage shops and a fair share of funky bars and hipster hangouts. With the 2011 opening of the Turner Contemporary gallery – named for the painter who visited the town throughout his life, it truly is living up to its reputation as an artists hub.

Old Town, Margate

Situated between Margate and Ramsgate, one could say that neighbouring Broadstairs is an even more ideal coastal town. Along with its connection to author Charles Dickens, it’s known as one of the most popular destinations to live by the seaside and I can absolutely see why. It’s family-friendly beaches such as Viking Bay and Joss Bay are a much more pleasant way to avoid the daytrippers on Margate’s main sands. Souvenir shops, ice cream parlours and shacks selling floaties, buckets and spades line the beach at Viking Bay. The Pavillion, Charles Dickens and Royal Albion (which also doubles as a lovely hotel) are great places to have a decent meal and refreshing beer overlooking the seafront, yet there are a plethora of fine places to dine. On a clear day, you can apparently see Dunkirk, France across the sea.

Viking Bay, Broadstairs

The Pavilion, BROADSTAIRS

Art gallery, Broadstairs

Where to stay in Margate:

About a 25-minute walk into Margate (or a cheap £3 taxi), the beautiful Walpole Bay Hotel in Cliftonville was originally built in 1914 and continues to be restored to its original glory, including a working 1927 Otis Trellis elevator. Walpole’s long bay is famous for its tidal pool, literally, a pool built into the sea only a stone’s throw from the hotel, where walking the concrete border during low tide is a pastime we had to partake in. The hotel is also a living museum, with artefacts and antiques throughout, it’s like stepping back into a bygone era. The beautiful veranda, covered with brightly coloured flowers is the perfect spot to enjoy afternoon tea.

Walpole Bay Hotel

1927 Otis Trellis lift, Walpole Bay Hotel

Walpole Bay Tidal Pool

We were absolutely delighted with the attentive service and our stay overall. Just a word of warning, as with most hotels in England, there is no air conditioning and a small fan did not provide much relief from the sweltering August heat.

Activities for kids in Margate:

The rides at Dreamland are currently closed due to COVID-19, but there’s the famous Grade I listed Shell Grotto and a variety of amusements such as the Flamingo Arcade, which also has Lost Island mini-golf situated underground making it a great option for a rainy day. The Shell Grotto currently has a book ahead requirement with the new COVID restrictions which meant we left it a bit too late to knab a booking. As for the Flamingo, it also shares an arcade in Broadstairs so our tickets were interchangeable between the two which helped to secure a much doted on prize for the little one. Plus, Jamie is pretty good at the claw machine so a cute teddy came home with us as well.

Walpole Bay, Kent

Where to eat in Margate:

We had the most delightful dinner at Buoy and Oyster, a sea-facing restaurant offering fresh seafood and sunsets that would make anyone take out their phone for a snap. Fresh crab, octopus, oysters, mussels, clams and it went on. They even have a pretty balanced kids menu. Book ahead and request a spot on the terrace.

Fresh crab, Buoy and Oyster, Margate

Sunset at Buoy and Oyster, Margate

Just before leaving on our final day, we stopped off at the Sun Deck, a food, music and drinks pop up on the beach just across from the station in Margate. Options ranged from a converted double-decker bus serving tea to po boys, pulled pork sandwiches and other choices of street food, with a bar serving drinks to a soundtrack of funk and soul. It’s family-friendly but also a great place to chill out, set back from the beach crowds and of course, the sunsets are meant to be pretty spectacular too. The only downside is we were directed to the public toilets shared with beachgoers which isn’t a quick or pleasant experience.

Sun Deck, Margate

Also recommended to eat in Margate:

Angela’s / Dory’s – fresh seafood
L’olivo – authentic Italian pizza and pasta
Olby’s Soul Cafe & Music Cafe – try the jalapeno poppers
Peter’s Fish Factory – fish and chips
And many more…

WARNING: Avoid Eddessa’s. While this Turkish restaurant was recommended by our hotel, we found the service horrendous, food extremely slow and overpriced for the portion sizes. While we are patient during these challenging times as small businesses come to terms with COVID, there are just more pleasant experiences in town for the money.

We can’t wait to come back to both Margate and Broadstairs for an adult’s holiday to explore all the funky bars and delicious restaurants that were just a tease on this trip. And yes, there are other lovely seaside towns in Kent too. I’m keen to also try bohemian Whistable, lovely Ramsgate and underrated Folkestone in the near future. Who knows, I may become a regular DFL (down-from-Londoner,) as the locals refer to us.

Living Life in Earls Vegas (aka Earlsfield, London)

So, what’s it like living in Earlsfield, London? The self-proclaimed Earls Vegas?

Earlsfield Station, London

I’ll not only share how I ended up living in this family-friendly haven of SW London but also 8 reasons why you should visit Earlsfield too.

Since moving back to the UK in 2015 I’ve made Southwest London my home. This city, divided by those who claim eternal loyalty to either living north or south of the river Thames, was a place I’d lived twice prior (2003, 2006) however this was my first venture living South. I’ll let you in on a little secret though, I absolutely love it. My loyalty to SW London now stands stronger than I ever imagined.

My first home was off of trendy Northcote Road in Clapham Junction. Whilst Clapham is coined “Nappy Valley” due to the abundance of affluent young families and strollers/buggies, it also has a reputation for its twenty-something party scene and abundance of Aussie, Kiwis and Saffas.

Clapham is technically split across 4 areas and transport links: Clapham High Street, Clapham North, Clapham South and Clapham Junction – each providing their own unique charm. My flat off of Northcote Road gave me access to a number of trendy boutiques (Oliver Bonas), mom and pop restaurants (Cafe Tamra, Made in Italy, Opa Opa, Dip & Flip) and some decent bars (Vagabond, The Old Bank, Northcote Records, Draft House) to keep me hopping along any night of the week, plus the transportation links are fantastic. I lived there for 2 and half years and loved it.

Next, my partner Jamie and I moved one neighbourhood over to Wandsworth Town. I dreaded the move initially, despite it being in walking distance to Clapham Junction Station. St. John’s Hill replaced our regular nights dining out and we ventured to new places such as Kao Sarn and Pizza Brixton, with flash cocktails always available late at night from Powder Keg. Even my local yoga studio Sadhana Yoga and Wellbeing was perfectly situated.

So for our most recent move, thanks to our landlord selling in a reflex reaction to Brexit, I shuddered at the thought of going even further afield to Earlsfield. From the perspective of some, I’m in proper suburbia. To others who actually live in suburbia, I’m still very central in London. Welcome to Earls Vegas!

Where is Earlsfield?

Earlsfield is a leafy suburb of Wandsworth Council, London, located between Clapham Junction and Wimbledon. With the greenery and transport links of Wandsworth Common, high street shops of Garratt Lane and appealing proximity to Central London, it provides a suburban feel with all of the urban amenities.

What I sacrificed for trendy Northcote Road I made up with outdoor space. I never would have dreamed it would become such a privilege, especially now as I type this during lockdown from COVID-19 (Coronavirus). I have a big outdoor yard which has been a lifesaver during the precious days of sun, with a garden patch full of rhubarb, thyme, bay and rosemary included – how lucky. Saturday afternoons spent playing outdoor games with a 6-year old and doing odd-jobs like power washing and deck staining have kept me busy whilst not working due to redundancy. Plus, I’m a sucker for a tan.

Backyard Fun

Why is Earlsfield called Earls Vegas?

Unsuspecting to the naked eye, many assume Earlsfield is only for young family units and retirees, yet leafy Earlsfield does have some nightlife. The Wandle, named after the local estuary the River Wandle, is renowned for its vast beer garden, a line-up of cover bands and summer BBQs to the beat of live sports. Graffiti Bar, a gimmicky cocktail bar offers an £80 bar tab when you complete their menu of cocktails (which, obviously we’re in the running for) and is open until 2 am. Then again, the Leather Bottle is known to have one of the best beer gardens in all of Southwest London, enlarged garden games and pastel-painted sheds included.

Cocktails at Graffiti Bar, Earlsfield

Here are 8 reasons to visit Earlsfield:

1. The Great Outdoors

Southwest London has a plethora of outdoor space. In Earlsfield specifically, you can spend time in the vast greenery of Wandsworth Common – whether it be for a run, a game of football (where Jamie’s 6-year old plays in a weekend league) or to have a few drinks with friends.

Daily walks along the pond of Wandsworth Common

I’d also recommend a walk along the River Wandle. While some aspects require you to cut through various residential neighbourhoods, the Wandle passes through the South London Boroughs of Croydon, Sutton, Merton, and Wandsworth to join the River Thames. The river is about 11 miles long.

2. Pubs in Earlsfield

Prior to moving to Earlsfield, we discovered what we like to call the ‘Garratt Lane Pub Crawl’. Starting on Garratt Lane near Southside in Wandsworth, you can easily hop along to about 10 pubs, from the Garratt Tavern at the start to the Leather Bottle to finish.

Our favourites include:

Tir Na Nog – family-run Irish pub with free snacks daily
Grosvenor Arms – amazing pizzas and a good selection of craft drafts
The Earlsfield – try their rack of ribs, you won’t regret it
Halfway House – close to the train station and outdoor seating for people watching
Leather Bottle – amazing beer garden and decent Sunday roast

The Leather Bottle, Earlsfield

3. Brunch in Earlsfield

You can’t do a Saturday in London without a decent brunch. Earlsfield doesn’t fail to deliver either. Despite the sad closure of Bloody Ben’s (a sister restaurant to a favourite of ours on St. John’s Hill), there are plenty of options to keep you full of avocado toast.

Our favourites include:

Hallowed Belly – each week they offer a discount to the local ‘street of the week’

Closed Hallowed Belly, Earlsfield

Bean and Hop – sister cafe to Northcote Road top-pick Cafe Tamra, delicious middle-eastern inspired breakfast, pizza in the evenings and craft beer
Flotsam and Jetsam – all-day breakfast, fresh juices and amazing coffee. This is one to queue up for after a game on the Common.

4. Coffee in Earlsfield

While you have your fair share of big chains (Starbucks, Costa, Gails), it’s the independent guys that give Earlsfield a community feel. Especially during COVID-19, we love supporting them as they open up for take-aways and have turned themselves into mini-grocers.

Our favourites include:

Belle Amie – Offering brunch options too, Belle Amie is somewhere you can enjoy a great bite of their unique Tarte Flambée with a sip of roasted Allpress coffee beans.
Bonsai Espresso Room – Speciality coffee and cakes in a quirky cafe just across from the Common. They’ve mastered the art of no-contact take-away with installed plexiglass.

The outdoor menu at Bonsai Espresso Room on Wandsworth Common

Eclectic Collection – eclectic vibes and great coffee, they’ve stayed open during lockdown by serving the community with eggs, flour and takeaway brunch!

Beautiful Eclectic Collection in Earlsfield, London

5. Craft Beer in SW London

We wouldn’t live in Southwest London if we couldn’t have our craft beer. Luckily there are many breweries within walking distance. We like supporting these guys when we can – even better, we can’t wait until they open again to enjoy their taprooms and have a beer at the picnic tables out front. All do local deliveries or pick-up service.

By the Horns – Try Hopodelic

Enjoying the sunshine at By The Horns Brewery

Bellevue – Try Surf IPA

Supporting local breweries, Belleview Brewery

Wimbledon Brewery – Try Wimbledon Pale

6. Shopping

Fair enough, Earlsfield isn’t a shoppers paradise but there is enough to keep you entertained during a family walk on a Saturday afternoon. First up you have Southside shopping centre at the end of Garratt Lane – hop on the bus or stroll down if you really need a shop at the big Sainsburys, Waitrose, Sports Direct etc. But what gives Earlsfield it’s proper charm are the antique, charity and speciality shops. My favourite is Lark, independent clothing, accessory, and jewellery shop with 6 Southwest London sites.

7. Location

I know, right? At first, I was saying, “oh no, not Earlsfield” and now I’m bragging about the location. It’s not so bad really. It’s a good sandwich to be in the middle of – you’ve got Tooting on one end only a 5-minute bus ride away with delicious curry houses and thriving markets, Northcote Road less than a 30-minute walk away with all my old favourites, Wimbledon Village just one more train stop with all the flash chains and then Wandsworth Town. Balham too is an achievable walk. In fact, I walk everywhere; and when in doubt there’s a bus, and when in doubt again there’s a train. If only the London Santander city bikes (aka Boris Bikes) were this ‘far’ out.

Tooting Broadway Market

8. Community

Yes, of course, the community! We say hi to our neighbours, we collaborate on the Earlsfield Facebook Group (otherwise nicknamed ‘The Chat’ due to the gossipy comments) and of course take great pride in clapping every Thursday evening at 8 pm for our amazing NHS. I love looking over and seeing the rest of the street participate too!

Clapping for our NHS in Earlsfield, London

So that’s that – life in Earls Vegas. I have high hopes that all of the above and those who plan to open survive the upside of this COVID-19 lockdown. And if you do consider residing in this lovely corner of London, just be careful of those pesky foxes. They will have a field day in your garbage, snack at your garden and keep you up at night with their howls (more like grunts).

Welcome to the fabulous Earlsvegas! Graffiti Bar, Earlsfield

5 Reasons to Visit Belfast

Belfast is highly underrated as a city-break destination. It’s not surprising considering the history of trouble that took place over a 30-year period which meant that tourism was previously non-existent. But things have changed, Belfast is on the up and tourism is booming, especially in the summer months. Here are 5 reasons why you must visit Belfast.

Welcome to Belfast

1. Rich history

The Troubles

The period known as the troubles took place between 1968 to 1998. It was a horrible time in Northern Irish history and the wounds are very recent. To put it into perspective, the conflict is so young that I was 15 when things ended under the Good Friday Agreement, making it even more relatable. If you want to truly understand an unbiased perspective take a Belfast Black Cab Tour, run by taxi drivers who were considered a neutral source at the time so could to take journalists across the borders freely.

Belfast Peace Gate

During our 1.5-hour tour, we visited the gates at the peace line which separated the Nationalists and Loyalists – these are still only open from 7 am to 7 pm to keep the peace and are heavily monitored by CCTV. We stopped along the political murals where we had an opportunity to write an inspiring message on the wall and visited remembrance memorials on both sides where we learned in great detail about the horrors that took place. Witnessing fresh flowers at these sites and barbed wire still up around the homes close to the wall made the recency all too real.

Belfast Political Murals

Belfast Peace Wall

Our guide Jake was really knowledgeable and gave a balanced perspective from both sides. He is passionate about moving forward as he lived through the atrocities and his kids even attended a mixed school – something only available apparently for about 1% of the population. According to him, there are still walls in people’s minds and it’s going to take at least one more generation until there will truly be peace. “Fear is a powerful weapon” and “we, unfortunately, live with Brexit every day,” said Jake.

Jake of Black Cab Tours

Titanic

The ‘unsinkable’ was the pride of Belfast. She was built at the Harland and Wolff shipyard where she resided before her maiden voyage in 1912. The two massive yellow cranes, Samson and Goliath of Harland and Wolff shipyard are an iconic part of Belfast’s skyline.

Titanic Belfast museum houses an educational and interactive journey through Belfast’s history, the building of the world’s most iconic ship and exploration into its discovery at the depths of the Atlantic.

Great outdoors

Heading up to the natural phenomenon of Giant’s causeway is a must-do whilst in Northern Ireland. Only approx. over an hour’s direct-drive from Belfast, you can make a day out of it with the many coach tours that take you up north or hire a car. For those Game of Throne fans, there are even tours dedicated to the filming locations. I was slightly disappointed in my research, however, that all tours were large and on buses as I much prefer a small personalized tour but hey, when in Belfast…

We selected Irish Tour Tickets because the entrance fee to Giant’s Causeway and Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge were included, which isn’t always the case for other companies so check ahead. We got picked up from our hotel (Ramada by Wyndham Belfast City – great location in the Cathedral Quarter) at 8:15 am only to sit in front of the tour office until the tour officially left at 9:15 am. With a head of full of Guinness from the night before, we definitely would recommend making your own way to the tour office if you prefer a lie-in.

Giant's Causeway Tour Route

Our guide Gavin and driver Davy, the ultimate duo, made up for it however as two local Belfast lads they provided great commentary throughout the long day. Davy even sang the traditional Irish song The Green Glens of Antrim, local to County Antrim, whilst driving to wish a passenger a happy birthday.

The drive up the Antrim Coast was beautiful, rugged coastline on one side and a blanket of green on the other – it definitely ticks the quintessential Irish scenery box. You could even see Scotland in the distance!

Giant’s Causeway too was mesmerizing – not only for the phenomena of the causeway itself but also for the natural landscape around. Irish folklore has it that the causeway was created by an Irish Giant, who threw chunks of the Antrim Coast into the sea when threatened by a large giant in Scotland. Scientists, however, will argue it was formed from lava. Who would you believe?

Giant's Causeway

Lisa & Hannah at Giant's Causeway

There are two trails to get to the causeway, I recommend to start on the red trail which provides a view from up above whilst the blue trail is at sea-level. For those who aren’t up for the walk, there is also a shuttle bus for £1. If you’re hungry you can grab a snack in the café in the Visitor’s Centre, or settle in at the cosy pub, The Nook, on-site for a pint of Guinness and some Irish stew as we did.

The Nook, Giant's Causeway

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, an old salmon fishing rope bridge, which is now owned by the National Trust is one of the most popular sites in the area. Tourists line up to cross the bridge, only to wait again on the other side to cross back. It makes for an excellent photo opportunity, just don’t look down to the sharp rocks and thunderous ocean below. When walking back to the car park there’s a great view looking back over the bridge connecting the small island of Carrickarede to the mainland. I’ll admit, I was scared and it didn’t help when young boys behind me decided to jump to shake the bridge (which is against the rules!) but I’m still proud of the accomplishment.

Hannah on Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

Our last stop was as Bushmills claimed as the world’s oldest whiskey distillery dating back to 1608. We did not get a tour but I was still happy to pay £10 for 3 drams – Black Bush blend, and 10 & 12-year single malts. The 10 was my favourite.

Bushmills

Whilst the tour was grand and the highlight, of course, was Giant’s Causeway and getting to walk in the great outdoors, you’re much better off renting a car and getting it done without requiring a full day of stops, some of which aren’t necessary.

Food, pubs and live music

Belfast’s social scene is thriving – even more, their food is significantly underrated. There are a few core popular areas for tourists in the small city, the city centre, the student area around Queen’s Quarter, the family-friendly Titanic Quarter and the buzzing Cathedral Quarter. We based ourselves around the Cathedral Quarter which was very central to both the centre of the city as well as popular nightlife spots.

Fave brunch spot:

Established Coffee, located in the Cathedral Quarter, it is hands down pure awesome. On our first afternoon we stopped in for ‘the best toastie I’ve ever had’ according to Hannah and I do concur, only to go for brunch again on Sunday. The quality of the coffee is a given, and I also highly recommend the hash. Be prepared to wait for a spot to open up but well worth it.

Fave Dinner:

Made in Belfast
This funky local chain was absolutely stand out – from service to its seasonal farm-to-table sustainable, ethically sourced menu. I was over the moon with my rump steak while Hannah found love with the lamb.

Top pubs in Cathedral Quarter

Crown Liquor Saloon

Dating back to the 1880s, this pub is an institution of Belfast and has been one of the “mightiest Victorian gin palaces of the city”. Here’s where we had our first Guinness (and Hannah’s first-ever, whhaaat?!) before starting a mini pub crawl of Belfast’s best pubs. Being right in the city centre, expect it to be busy with both locals and tourists with Guinness in hand, but make yourself at home in one of the cosy snugs and admire the elegantly detailed woodwork and stained glass which lends itself to being a Grade A listed building owned by the National Trust.

Crown Liquor Saloon – Bar

Crown Liquor Saloon – Snug

Kelly’s Cellars
200 years old, Kelly’s is one of Belfast’s oldest traditional Irish pubs and is another iconic Belfast boozer. With cute bric-a-brac, from pots to fiddles hanging from the ceiling, it’s an excellent place to hunker down for a Guinness and some traditional Irish stew whilst listening to traditional Irish music.

Kelly’s Cellars, Belfast

Kelly’s Cellars

Maddens Bar
It doesn’t come any more of a quintessential local, with a live Irish band in the corner, money hanging from the ceiling and good honest chats with locals. Hannah was keen for a wine, but I encouraged her this was a place for Guinness.

Maddens Bar, Belfast

On Commercial Court, an Intsta worthy cobblestone street in the heart of the Cathedral Quarter you’ll find the Duke of York. Full of old lamps, clocks and advertising signs from every generation there’s live music both downstairs and upstairs. It feels like a small-town crowd in the heart of the city.

Duke of York, Belfast

Duke of York – Live Music

The Harp Bar, just across from the Duke of York is another lively bar with live music.

The Harp Bar

Claimed as the oldest pub in Belfast, Whites is very cosy with exposed oak beams and a burning fire so it’s a great environment to stay warm from Belfast’s unpredictable weather. Set in a 17th-century building, saddle up at the bar for a Guinness or pop upstairs to the Oyster Rooms for some traditional grub.

Whites Tavern, Belfast

At the National, we witnessed an awesome band, Belfast Busking Band, a local group putting a twist on old school beats, trumpet and all, in this chilled out beer garden. Things started to pick up later in the evening with a younger crowd.

Belfast Busking Band

People

You can’t go wrong with the Irish. They’re friendly, love to have a drink and some craic (good fun). Everywhere we went we found them delightful, welcoming and generally happy to chat about everything – from what life was like at that time to how things are moving forward and the tourism that the city is embracing.

Hanging with locals at Maddens Bar

Affordability

Compared to the prices of Dublin, Belfast was very affordable. Not to mention, being on the £ makes it easy for those coming from mainland UK and it’s such a short flight – less than an hour.

Therefore, you now have 5 strong reasons to hop on over to the amazing city that is Belfast.

Commercial Court, Belfast

Holidaying in Port de Sóller, Majorca

Boating, Floating and Gloating

The girls on Mezzo Magic

Majorca has a mixed reputation. On one hand, the beautiful Balearic island is known for its natural beauty (aqua blue coves, citrus plantations, lush mountains, and spectacular beaches). On the other hand, you’ve got debauchery in Magaluf, the party hotspot in Palma for young Brits that gives it a reputation in itself. The good news, spending a long weekend in Port de Sóller, a small horseshoe bay on the island’s west coast, was the perfect adult holiday for me and my two friends in which we fell in love with the Spanish island of Majorca.

Mountain view of Port de Soller, Majorca

Let’s face it, when you’re planning a surprise trip in the middle of July there are basically only two rules. Sun and beach. The only clues we had leading up to it were that it was an island with sun every day with a high of 37°C (98°F), we’d need aqua socks to protect our feet in the water, we’d need sneakers as there was some sort of hike, a metal water bottle, a good book, and swimmers. Oh, and we were renting a car as the place where we were going was a bit off the beaten path. I can live with all those things. Intrigued, to say the least…

My mind was racing with ideas such as Madeira or Sardinia. No, wait, what about Sicily? So when Penny gave us a crossword puzzle and a big clue, ‘Balearic’ hidden right down the middle, Sophie and I were still miffed. We had no idea where that was or what it meant. When she finally explained it’s an archipelago of islands off of Spain and announced our final destination, I was ecstatic. I’d never been to Majorca, and knowing only as much as the clues I was given was enough to get pumped.

Hiking in Majorca

Majorca is a hiker’s dream, especially during the off-season. Well signed and maintained paths are all over the large island. Even better, our quiet cove of Port de Sóller is a key area for hiking and there are trails leading directly from the town and the port. One of the most famous takes you from Sóller to Fornalutz, voted one of the most beautiful towns in Spain, but unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time to visit.

We did, however, brave the heat for a 4-hour hike from Port de Sóller to Cala Deia, a beautiful secluded beach featured in the BBC series The Night Manager. The plan was to go halfway to Son Mico, a lovely Finca set up in the hills of the Serra de Tramuntana, which serve homemade quiche and orange cake, refill our water bottles and decide whether we had the energy to keep going. But when we got there it was disappointedly closed for the holidays, our water bottles were nearly empty and there was no point in turning back, it was so hot we needed the sea, asap! 2 more hours to go…

Son Mico Finca, Majorca

Throughout the hike we were mesmerized by the sounds, we were alone and it was quiet other than the crickets chirping away. We covered various terrain, from very dry red dirt, shiny silver rocks, orange mud. We went from windy paths deep in the mountain to open roads; crossed areas where goat and wild horses roamed, welcomed the shade under olive groves and counted the boats out at sea as the coast came back into view.

Olive groves in Majorca

The heat was overwhelming, and we were warned that lots of injuries happen on the trails when hikers are not well hydrated. We were sweating profusely, shocked by how swollen our fingers were. Luckily we had pre-made sandwiches which we cheekily put together from the morning’s breakfast bar at the hotel, they were vital in keeping our energy going. It’s recommended to hike first thing in the morning, not midday like us when it was 32°C (90°F).

Group Shot Hiking Serra de Tramuntana, Majorca

Sweating Hiking Serra de Tramuntana, Majorca

When we finally made it to Cala Deia after four hours of hiking in extreme heat, no water and thoughts about our survival, it was such a welcome relief. Staring down at the little alcove with turquoise water, two restaurants where you can buy beer and food, and families splashing about, we were in heaven. It was beautiful, and we were also quite smug we had our aqua socks with us to clamber over the rocks with ease. Beer in hand, bum in the water, I was proud of our accomplishments and relieved to finally be able to relax and enjoy the beautiful Balearic Sea.

Cala Deia View, Majorca

The sea, Cala Deia, Majorca

Restaurant, Cala Deia, Majorca

Getting back was an adventure in itself, as we certainly were not walking. The road out of Cala Deia to the bus stop is quite long, and steep, and winding. As a joke, Penny stuck her thumb out, and before we knew it we were thankful to be in the back of an old French/Brazillian couple’s green Mini, they were shocked that we had walked there to begin with. “In Majorca, you need a car,” they lectured. We had a car we told them, we just chose not to use it! We were so grateful, we were exhausted and it would have taken us forever to get up there. Luckily when the bus finally came it was air-conditioned. Everyone shut their eyes and had a nice little nap during the 30 minutes back to the port.

Things to do in Port de Sóller

Port de Sóller is a destination in itself. There’s plenty to do, here are a few ideas.

Beach shack, Port de Sóller, Majorca

Go for a Hike – see above

Hire a boat – we recommend Mezzo Magic, it cost 75 Euro cash (91 Euros if paying by card) for 3 hours at sea including snacks and drinks. It was a lovely way to spend a few hours in the beautiful Balearic Sea. The boat company is lush and top quality. During our time at sea we visited the blue lagoon, snorkelled, and paddle boarded. The girls went into a sea cave and Sophie jumped from the top of the rocks. We snagged the bean bags at the front of the boat and thoroughly enjoyed the sun, sea and drinks.

blue lagoon, Majorca

Paddleboarding, Mezzo Magic, Majorca

Mermaids Island

Beach – The port offers the only sandy beaches on the west coast of the island, there are two beaches, one at the end of each bay. Loungers and umbrella rentals are affordable if you’re making a day out of it. The sea is very calm and there is an area with a lifeguard in Platja d’en Repic beach which is most popular with families.

Platja d’en Repic beach, Majorca

Paddleboard – Sóller SUP is about halfway around the bay and rents paddleboards (15 Euro for the hour) as well as provides lessons.

Sóller town – is beautiful. The streets are made of natural white stone; houses have massive big brown doors with ornate knobs, such as a lion’s head. The tall buildings have the Serra de Tramuntana mountains in the backdrop and the narrow alleyways are an easy way to get lost exploring its charm. Visit the botanical gardens, galleries, or simply come for lunch or dinner, there is plenty to do.

Streets of Sóller town, Majorca

Església de Sant Bartomeu

Sóller Market – On Saturdays, this traditional market is frequented by both locals and tourists. It takes up the main square and surrounding areas and is quite big, with local crafts, clothes, jewellery and food available. Open from 8:00 to 14:00, Penny and I walked away with some beautiful yet affordable hand-painted ceramics.

Meat at Sóller Market, Majorca

Ceramics in Sóller Market, Majorca

Where to eat in Port de Sóller

We’ve had recommendations from friends that include Sabarca, Kingfisher and Randemar, but here are the ones in Port de Sóller that we tried.

Patiki Beach – hands down our favourite. Fresh food, friendly service and beachfront, you couldn’t ask for more. We sat on the blue and red checkered tables and devoured creamy burrata, fresh tomato salad, locally caught sardines, butter beans, and local bread with tomato puree on top. For the quality, it was super affordable, and the atmosphere was perfect after dinner to just enjoy the sound of the ocean and to have a post-dinner drink playing cards. Goblets of gin in Spain, this is what I had been practising for all year.

Patiki Beach Restaurant, Majorca

El Sabor – is a lovely tapas restaurant just across from a tram stop. They do an excellent Aperol Spritz, a good variety of tapas with great views of the ocean – plus service was friendly and attentive. This was perfect for a midday snack.

Restaurant Las Olas – Although it didn’t come recommended from friends, we greatly enjoyed Las Olas, centrally located on the main promenade. The sea bass, lamb and vegetable paella were all very good quality, not to mention the atmosphere of seafront views.

Villa Louisa – is absolutely beautiful with stunning stonework, fresh flowers and a lovely setting but slightly overrated for the price. They had a fantastic French rose and a great selection of fresh fish (monkfish was divine), as was the seafood pasta. Unfortunately, it’s not very vegetarian-friendly.

Where we stayed

Our hotel, Citric Hotels, was great value for money and well situated close to the beach. In fact, I can’t really complain about our stay at all. What I especially liked was waking up to views over the port and the sun shimmering on the water.

View of Port de Soller, Majorca

We had a basic budget room for the 3 of us, two single beds and a pull out which they had pre-made. We upgraded in advance to ensure we had a balcony and air conditioning, both definitely worth it. Their breakfast buffet was standard Spanish continental, but that didn’t stop us from making sandwiches each morning from the cheese and meat platters to bring to the beach. More importantly, their bar was cheap and open late, and overall the service was fantastic – with recommendations each morning on how to get around. When our car was towed, they were there to help, and when asked for a late check out so we could shower after a full day at the beach, they only charged a reasonable 20 Euro.

Getting around Port de Sóller

Tram – The scenic tram, Tren de Sóller, the island’s first electric tram which takes you from Port de Sóller to Sóller town is a must-do. A steep 7 Euro, the slow yet picturesque journey is a relaxing way to get between the two towns and is quite useful if you are staying outside of these central areas.

Tren de Sóller, Majorca

Bus – There are regular bus routes to get between the west coast towns and to the capital Palma. Most hotels can provide a timetable. The bus stop in Port de Sóller is a short walk from the port.

Car – They say the best way to see the island is to hire a car. So that’s exactly what we did. Only to check out of our hotel on our final day and find our car missing. Confused, we quickly realized we had parked it on a hill in a no parking zone. An orange triangle-shaped sticker was found on the ground which indicated it had been towed. Luckily our hotel was very nice and called us a taxi to take us to the police station in Sóller. We paid the fine of 207 Euro (exact change only), walked 10 minutes to the salvage yard only to find the car wasn’t there. Let’s not fret, we only need to fly out in a few hours….

Port de Soller Towing Notice

The police met us at the salvage yard and realized that it must be in a different location. Don’t panic. They could only accommodate one passenger so Sophie bravely jumped into the back of the police car (yes!) whilst Penny and I sat waiting in the scorching heat, at least we were left in pleasant surroundings with views of mountains and lemon groves. Sophie returned 20 minutes later with our car, followed by the police who kindly give us an escort out of the tiny narrow and winding streets to the highway. We got to the airport relieved only to find out our flight was annoyingly delayed.

Police escort from Soller

Until next time, Majorca

What I loved about this Port de Sóller was that it was a true blend of mountain and sea. At night we commented on the revelation of seeing the stars, something that’s not too common in London. It was serene, peaceful and delicious. I spent 9 hours in the sun one day relaxing by the sea and I was in my happy place, no work, the sound of the ocean, and just…the clear blue ocean! There are definitely other beautiful, Instagram famous spots on Majorca but the small bit of paradise that we touched was just perfect. I definitely want to come back, both to Port de Sóller and to explore other parts of what Majorca has to offer.

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Sorrento Food Tours

Sorrento is the ideal base for exploring greater Naples and the Amalfi Coast. With beach clubs, transport links, shopping and a thriving food and nightlife scene, there’s no reason to miss out. Even better, let’s highlight the fact that it’s flat so it’s super accessible compared to the cliffs of Positano and Capri, so take advantage and give your feet a rest after a day exploring the nearby coastal towns and islands.

Beach clubs, Sorrento

As we only had one night and two days to spend in Sorrento, I decided to optimize it with a food tour. This gave us the opportunity to explore the town, learn some history and importantly, uncover the best places for local food and drink. Our goal was to consume as many Italian delicacies as we could in a short amount of time.

Chiesa di Carmine

We joined Tamara on Sorrento Food Tours walking food tour for 3 hours of pure indulgence. We met on the steps of Chiesa di Carmine (Carmine Church) in Piazza Tasso (main square) to begin our tasting experience and I was initially shocked to hear her American accent, slightly disappointed we weren’t being led around by a local. We quickly learned that she’s a lady of the world, an ex-flight attendant originally from San Diego. She’s been running tours across Italy and has called Sorrento her home for many years after meeting her love Michele at Michelin starred Il Buco.

Sfogliatelle from Bar Pasticceria Monica

Our first taste was a traditional Neapolitan pastry, Santa Rosa cream custard and wild cherry sfogliatelle from Bar Pasticceria Monica. With a quick sugar rush from the delicate filling and a great start of what’s to come, I was ready to see where the afternoon would lead us.

Arancini, The Join

Arancini at The Join, Sorrento

Join, a casual tapas and wine bar is recommended for aperitivo and live music. Here we met Serena who shared around homemade arancini. We laughed to ourselves at the different country flags stuck into the arancini to show the diversity of our group, but then again, most of us were American. Jamie showed his support for the EU of course!

Pizza from Da Franco’s in Sorrento

Pizzeria da Franco

Have a pizza and the world will smile at you, Da Franco

Late night pizza at Da Franco

saltimbocca, pizzeria da franco

Pizzeria Da Franco is one of the most popular spots in town, not only because their pizza is out of this world good, cooked in their famous wood-burning oven 8ft deep 500 celsius, but they’re also open from lunch to 1 am which is appealing. We shared saltimbocca, which means jumping around, a traditional Italian dish of veal wrapped with prosciutto and sage. We then had their delicious thin and crisp pizza, the prosciutto di Parma DOP was salty and dry, the thick legs hung from the ceiling as they go through 1-2 legs a day. The mozzarella was moist and delicious and of course, their friendly staff is what gives this place its reputation as it has been around for nearly 70 years. In fact, we couldn’t help popping by later that evening after a few negronis for a late night pizza and a few more beers.

Giardini di Cataldo

Just around the corner is Fondo L’Arguminato (a citrus garden right in the center of Sorrento). Unfortunately, if the gates are shut you can’t enter, which was the case for us during our tour but we came back for a peek into the beautiful lemon haven the next day. Normally open to the public during the day, when the gates are open you are free to explore the 300-year-old lemon grove which harvests 3 times a year.

Giardini di Cataldo

Limoncello from Giardini di Cataldo

Lemons at Giardini di Cataldo

Luckily around the corner is the Giardini di Cataldo (limoncello factory) where you can buy an assortment of products grown in the citrus grove. This was a great spot to hear from Luigi about how limoncello is made using only the peel (surprising!), as well as to taste it, some lemon sorbet, boozy baba cake and liquorice liquor. Importantly, if you see limoncello spelt with an ‘e’ (lemoncillo), that’s how you know it’s fake so if you’re looking for authentic gifts this is the spot!

il Bocconcino

We then stopped at a small delicatessen and food market, il Bocconcino, to try some charcuterie. Salami with cow’s milk cheese, speck which is salt-cured like prosciutto but smoked and provolone del Monaco (semi-hard cheese local to the area produced by monks). If I was staying for a few days I would definitely do my local shopping here, or as Tamara recommends go for a simple panini.

Charcuterie from il Bocconcino

We finally sat down for our main course at Da Gigino Ristorante, another local place Tamara recommends to try for pizza or pasta after the food tour. We had a lovely buffalo mozzarella starter followed by gnocchi Sorrentino. I can say it was tasty, but the free-flowing Calabrian white wine was a nice treat too!

Jonathan, Nino & Friends

Following, we sampled some chocolates from Nino & Friends, a great place to pick up some treats such as candied lemon and orange rinds and other delectable gifts to bring back home. Jonathan did a great job of sharing coffee beans coated in chocolate, sugared almonds, and stuffed pralines. But we favored the dog Margo who hangs out front a bit too.

And finally, we closed off the tour with gelato from Davide Gelateria and a glimpse at Mt Vesuvius in the distance.

Sunset at Sky Bar, Hotel Plaza, Sorrento

After an afternoon of filling up on delicious food, we were ready for a drink. Tamara recommended the following and even joined us for a few at Sky Bar at Hotel Plaza, which has great cocktails and amazing sunset views over the sea and Mt Vesuvius.

Other bars in Sorrento

Fauno Bar – perfect for people watching in the heart of Piazza Tasso
Fuoro 51 – Wine bar
La Bottega della Birra – Tamara suggests asking for Nuzio in this craft beer hot spot

Still hungry? Here’s where to eat in Sorrento (Thanks Sorrento Food Tours for the recommendations!)

Il Buco
Accento Restaurant
Inn Bufalito
La Basilica
Porta Marina Seafood
Hotel continental “Terrazza Vittoria”
Bagni Delfino
Ristorante O’Puledrone
L’Antica Trattoria
A’Marenna

Note: getting to Pompeii or Mt. Vesuvius from Sorrento is easy by Circumvesuviana train in about 30 minutes. This train has many stops and is very busy with tourists but is the most direct route if you don’t have a private car. It is also riddled with pickpockets so be very careful with your belongings. I witnessed someone get their phone taken out of their front pocket without evening feeling it. There are also lockers for a small fee at the Pompeii train station.

Thanks Tamara for a great day exploring Sorrento, we enjoyed all your recommendations and company over too many negronis!

Get In The Know, Positano

I’ve never met a single person who would say no to a trip to Italy’s Amalfi Coast. In fact, for many, it’s the ultimate wedding or honeymoon destination – also now popular with backpackers, and rightfully so. Situated to the east of Naples, the Amalfi Coast is a 50-kilometer stretch that runs along the edge of Italy’s Sorrentine Peninsula.

Amalfi Coastline

Jamie had gifted us a flight to Naples as my Christmas present. To set things straight, he became keenly more interested in a trip to Naples following a boxset binge of the Sopranos. But I’m not complaining. It was the perfect opportunity for me to introduce us to the Amalfi Coast for the first time and so it was a win-win.

Lisa Vecchio, Positano

Jamie Synan, Positano

While only a short trip, 3 nights and 4.5 days, we prioritized the cliffs of Positano and a food tour in Sorrento, then a quick stop to the ruins in Pompeii and a traditional Napolese pizza at the famous L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele in downtown Naples on our way home. If we had more time, I would have loved to spend it in Amalfi, Ravello, and the islands of Ischia and Capri – but there’s always a next time. So, let me tell you about Positano…

Positano from above

Getting to Positano is half the fun. If you’re in no rush, I highly recommend taking an open-air ferry, just make sure you check the schedules in advance. The highlight of my trip was taking the ferry from Salerno to Positano, sun beaming on our faces as we passed the tiny cliffside towns from the sea. It appeared as if the clouds could touch the tips of the churches, we saw old stone fortresses built into rocks and antiquated houses set amongst vineyards. It was all so peaceful, the sound of waves and the sun overhead made me feel lucky to finally be in the much-in-demand Amalfi Coast.

Ferry Salerno to Positano

After arriving in Positano by ferry we were greeted by a porter who offered to take our luggage to our hotel. “No!” We sneered, we’ll manage fine. Oh, how naive we were. Has anyone told you about the stairs?!

Climbing the steps of Positano

With luggage in tow, we schlepped it up further and further, hoping the next set of steps would be the end, when in fact it was still only the beginning. Stopping to catch our breaths, we received words of encouragement from those passing by, they’d done this already and didn’t envy us. But it was worth it, to stop and look out at the blue ocean and beautifully weathered Italian houses, colorful B&Bs and the rugged mountainous setting around us.

Classic Alfa Romeo, Positano

View looking down at Positano

We quickly discovered that the multilayers of Positano are beautiful looking up, and just as stunning looking down at the town and the sea below. It’s charming in its own right, it is the Italian med after all. But it’s not for those unfit or very accessible, the stairs definitely make it even more memorable. As do the hordes of tourists and day-trippers from Sorrento.

Vespa cliffside in Positano

For a day and a half, we ate fresh seafood like kings, drank our fair share of local Calabrian wine and explored the gelaterias, art galleries, souvenir shops, and restaurants, taking a new set of stairs each time to uncover different places. The weather gods weren’t in our favor though, so there was no sun bedding to be had. However, an afternoon sipping 10 Euro Spritz’s (trust me, that’s a steal) and people watching at seafront Blu Bar was the perfect way to spend it.

Spritz o’Clock at Blu Bar, Positano

Cocktails at Blu Bar, Positano

Blu Bar, Positano

For sunset, we made our way cliffside to Franco’s Bar, an Instagrammer’s dream, with lemon trees set against deep blues and limoncello yellow decor, upmarket cocktails and chilled out beats. You pay for the view and the price to be seen in this crowd, but hey, it’s worth 20 Euro for at least one drink for the sunset alone.

Franco’s Bar, Positano

Another great spot is tucked around the corner from the main beach, a short walk brings you to Hotel Pupetto, with ocean views away from the crowds and a quieter and smaller beach to spend the afternoon.

Hotel Pupetto, Positano

Where to eat in Positano

Chez Black was a top favorite. Reasonably priced for being beachfront, they also honored my reservation and gave us an ocean facing table. Their signature dish is the sea urchin, but we came for the vongole. Simple al dente pasta and the sweetest clams I’ve ever had. We were impressed by their wine list as well as their 8 Euro cocktails. Jamie was most excited with their wall of fame, it appeared to be Denzel Washington’s favorite restaurant, amongst other celebrities.

Famous Chez Black, Positano

Dinner at Chez Black, Positano

Even better, the staff were excellent too. They recommended Fly Bar for a drink post dinner, built into the cliff with seaside views, jazz, and a banging 20 Euro coffee negroni. Situated above Music on the Rocks, which also comes highly recommended by a friend for a big night out as it’s the only club in town. They own these venues too, hence the recommendation.

La Tagliata was the one I was looking forward to the most. A family restaurant set in the town of Montepertuso high above Positano, they’ll arrange a private transfer for free – the views are outstanding as you wind up and up the mountainside, it’s a bit nerve-wracking but fun. Or you can go physical and take the thousands of steps up and work hard for your dinner. Served family style, there’s no menu and you get what’s grown from the garden with their own brand of wine all for 45 Euros, cash only. You are treated like one of the family, even visiting mama’s kitchen to snap photos with the staff.

Family pics at La Tagliata

We started with antipasta of Serrano ham, local cheese and pickled veg, arancini, and eggplant parmigiana. Wow, that’s a lot to start! This was followed by 4 kinds of pasta: ravioli, gnocchi, ricotta cheese cannelloni and zucchini over cortege – a pasta we’ve never had before. Take your time because as soon as your plate is empty, out comes the next course. It was a mixed grill of chicken, beef, pork, rabbit, lamb with fresh skin-on fries and salad, but this changes all the time. Finally, for dessert, we were served fresh fruit, a variety of cakes and limoncello. Stuffed.

The multiple courses upon courses were impressive, as was the warmness of the family such as Renato, the self-proclaimed black sheep of the family and Letizia who waited on us. But I just wasn’t that overly keen on the meal itself. Good, but not great. If you come here, it’s for the experience and I would still recommend it for that alone.

La Cambusa is another one that seems like it’s made for tourists as it’s right on the seafront, but the quality of the fresh seafood is excellent. The view from upstairs is fantastic, and we were blown away with our seafood scampi and lobster linguini. Mama mia it was good!

Scampi at La Cambusa, Positano

Lobster at La Cambusa, Positano

Highly recommended restaurants in Positano (that we didn’t try)

Negroni, olives and espresso

Da Vicenzo – If I had time for one more this is where I would have gone but we couldn’t get in without a reservation. A lively family-run restaurant with an emphasis on fresh fish, about halfway up the steep steps, reserve for an outside table with ocean views.

Ristorante da Bruno – Cliffside pavement tables overlooking the town, known for their quality of produce.

Casa e Bottega – For a light, healthy meal for breakfast or lunch (from 12); don’t take reservations.

Next 2 – Very trendy and glamorous wine bar, but traditional in its roots. It’s expensive but we heard good things from Canadians we met that it was worth it for a ‘special’ experience.

Ristorante Max – Where locals go for pizza and super fresh seafood, also part of an art gallery. The stuffed zucchini (courgette) flowers come recommended

Collina Bakery – The only takeaway coffee in town, also baked goods, desserts, pizza, and gelato.

Gelato in Positano

How to get to Positano from Naples Airport

As I mentioned above, getting to Positano is half the fun.

By car is by far the quickest (if not in tourist season when the roads can be backed up) and most efficient, if you can handle the tight turns, drops and narrow passes on the windy roads. But they say the amazing views of the ocean below are worth it. Private hire transfers go from 60-100 Euro or you can book the Positano Shuttle in advance for 28 per person each way.

Alternatively, the bus from the airport makes two stops, Naples Central Station (15 minutes) or the Port (Molo) (30 minutes).

If getting off at Naples Central, you can then take a train to Salerno (40 mins) and then catch the Travel Mar Ferry to Positano. This is what we did because it was our only sunny day and we wanted to maximize the views from the sea. We didn’t regret it one bit! The train hugs Mt Vesuvius nearly the whole way, plus the cliffside towns from the ferry are breathtaking. Just make sure you check the ferry times. There are also many restaurants outside the port in Salerno to grab lunch. Keep your eyes peeled for the old leathered guy with the sunburned bald head and splitting Speedo, he’s friendly!

It’s also recommended to hire a boat to visit these smaller towns, as no boating license is required, and Salerno has some pretty reasonably priced rentals compared to the more touristy towns, so a local colleague tells me.

If taking the airport bus to the port, you can take the Alilauro Ferry to Sorrento (40 minutes). There are also plenty of hotels and restaurants near the waterfront in Naples if you need to kill time. Once in Sorrento, you can catch another ferry to Positano, or the local Sita bus. Note, you can also catch the train direct from Naples to Sorrento – it is slow, will be packed and you will likely stand for about an hour and it is riddled with pickpocketers – I witnessed this myself. The ferry is much more enjoyable.

Overall, a lovely time in Positano. I just can’t wait to go back when the sun is out!

Arriving in Cefalu

Week 1

Week 2

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What to eat in San Vito lo Capo?

A few dishes you absolutely have to try in the Trapani province.

Where to eat in San Vito lo Capo?

5 Things To Do in the rain in San Vito?

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Day 1 – My Old Stomping Grounds

Day 2 – Reunited At Last

Day 3 – Food For Days

Day 4 – All About Balance

Day 5 – The Yazza Vazza

Day 6 – The Melbourne Cup

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Which beach town is better, Mondello or Cefalu?!

Eating in Sicily is an event in itself, but eating in Cefalu is an experience.

Where we ate in Cefalu

Where to eat in Cefalu (that we missed out on):

Top of my list to visit in Sicily include:

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Where to stay in Margate:

Activities for kids in Margate:

Where to eat in Margate:

Also recommended to eat in Margate:

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Where is Earlsfield?

Why is Earlsfield called Earls Vegas?

Here are 8 reasons to visit Earlsfield:

1. The Great Outdoors

2. Pubs in Earlsfield

3. Brunch in Earlsfield

4. Coffee in Earlsfield

5. Craft Beer in SW London

6. Shopping

7. Location

8. Community

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Boating, Floating and Gloating

Hiking in Majorca

Things to do in Port de Sóller

Where to eat in Port de Sóller

Where we stayed

Getting around Port de Sóller

Until next time, Majorca

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Where to eat in Positano

Highly recommended restaurants in Positano (that we didn’t try)

How to get to Positano from Naples Airport

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