Author: These Two Eyes

These Two Eyeshttp://www.thesetwoeyes.comI believe that experiences are the key to life and travelling shapes those experiences. I try and get away to experience somewhere, something, anything and everything new as often as I can, and it's typically the thought on my mind on a regular basis – so what’s next? Meeting people and hearing their stories, experiencing other cultures, and having a laugh along the way. Trying new food, marvelling at the similarities, the differences. Feeling anxious and scared, and excited and envious all at the same time. This is what it's all about. Thanks for listening to my stories. Eat, drink, explore, meet, laugh...it all makes living worth it.

Goodbye Melbourne, Hello Again… London

These Two Eyes are on the move again, just a few weeks shy of leaving behind Australia to relocate back to my favourite city in the world, London!

But now this part feels too short; the waiting part. All of the songs I hear sound like home, like Melbourne. The familiarity of my apartment, my commute on my cherry-apple bike, the banter between me and my roommate, the smells and tastes of my favourite restaurants on Bridge Road – they are all reaching out to me saying, don’t go! The red wine and fun times keep flowing though, we stumble a bit but just go with it. Then I smile and remember that this is just another step on an amazing journey.

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Australia is a special place I know I’d like to come back to, even long term again one day. I recognize now the things I’ve taken for granted; the best beaches on the planet, world class food and wine, proximity to remote islands, a refreshing outlook on life, and lifelong friendships.

I’ve learned so much in my close to 4.5 years here and want to always keep these lessons front of mind:

Slow down, have fun and stop worrying about getting to the top.
The world is both small and accessible, keep traveling, always.
Do what you love and don’t settle for anything, or anyone, less. Life is what you make of it and there is no formula to follow.

Making a move is never easy but the outcome is also never regretted. I think it’s because there is so much you can’t anticipate. When I’m content I associate it with the place I love at the moment, the fun factor. But then the next minute I have a conversation about a 15-year old dying of cancer, and it hits me that life is so short. Do what you want and be happy, yet that is also difficult when family and friends are so far away and traveling to you for a visit isn’t an option. So is happiness Europe on a whim or a swim in Bondi over the weekend? They both win for different reasons.

I’ve always been one to follow through when I say I’m going to accomplish something and this is no different. Australia has given me the opportunity to pursue my dreams time-and-time again and now is just another chance to stay true to what I’ve always said; I want to live in London again one day.

In fact, when I first moved over to Australia I created a bucket list of sorts – check it out, and stay tuned because I will also do the same for this move too. I’m proud to say I’ve ticked off each one and so much more. I’ve snorkelled the Great Barrier Reef 3 times. I’ve visited nearly every major wine region across Australia and New Zealand. I’ve seen and tasted wallaby, kangaroo, crocodile, and a few other interesting creatures. I’ve visited every state in Australia and lived in 2. I’ve watched and learned to play AFL, NRL, croquet and lawn bowls. Visited the outback and red center, various coasts and hinterlands and conquered crazy fears like skydiving and shark diving. And I’m lucky to be a permanent resident and not just a backpacker restricted by timeframes; I got to do it all!

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Australia has also turned me into a food snob. I have a lot of very expensive average dinners. Or maybe that’s just how pretentious my palette has become. I’ve had to learn to fight the urge to eat before I fly, whilst in the lounge, on the plane and after to maintain a tinge of self-control (and moderate weight). And that’s partly because I fly so regularly my obsession and loyalty to the national airline Qantas is not sane. I’m like that movie Up in the Air – always reaching out for that higher frequent flyer status.

And sometimes I sit on the tram and look at Flinders Station and think how beautiful it is. Melbourne is beautiful, especially at night. I watch the meter tick by as it gets more and more expensive, but it’s not London. It’s not supposed to be. There are trams instead of tubes, different arts, music and entertainment, secret bars and graffiti-clad laneways and then there’s the food and wine, of course. There’s nothing like it.

Flinders Station and passing tram

After seeing old friends in Brisbane this past weekend, I questioned to myself – why am I leaving all the people and things I love? My response was to also be with those I’ve loved first.

I popped back in London in July just to double check. At times it seemed a bit primal. A true melting pot changing neighbourhood by neighbourhood offering something to meet everyone’s wants. I went to sleep that last night thankful for Tommy and Paul and Jake and Dave and the people already in my life. I’m also thankful to show up in a city and call it my own. I have too many of these situations in too many cities: Brisbane, Philadelphia, Melbourne, New York, London. I love getting off the plane in each of these cities knowing I’ve already mastered the place. I know where to go for a beer, a bite and to kill time shopping or exploring.

Last year after returning from London I was nervous of the influence Australia was having on me. It’s almost as if life is too good. It’s a bit of a utopia of sorts. I realized as I tried to explain my dilemma how disillusioned it sounds. In comparison to the US my income is high, it’s safe, there’s minimal crime, you get free stuff on planes and people accept regular travel as a normal part of life. Oh, and they shorten everything they say which fits in perfect with the vocabulary I acquired as a teenager. So, what’s the prob? Right, I actually feel like I’m losing my street smarts. I’ll become unnecessarily cautious in some situations and too aloof or trustworthy in others that require alertness. I assume affluence is standard and have overlooked aspects of my fortune. This has caused me to recognize how removed from the society I grew up with I actually am.

So do I really just love London because it was my first? It was my first time abroad, my first time living overseas, and my first time traveling alone to new countries. But that’s what happens when you fall in love with a city at 13 years-old. It will always be ‘my’ city. People respond in shock when I tell them it’s my favourite city in the world. I’ve lived there at 19 and 22. What will it be like 10 years later? American accents are everywhere – I won’t be unique anymore. I won’t have people asking every day where I’m from or how long I’m staying. That is my life on repeat, always asking ‘what’s next’ and despite a bitter sweet goodbye to Australia, I’m more excited than ever to begin life again in London.

I can’t wait to visit old haunts and make new ones. To sit in a dodgy pub with friends I’ve yet to meet and those I know will help me transition. To travel like a big kid all of Europe on weekends and evolve my palette even further on French and Italian wines. To fall in love with boys with funny accents, achieve success in my new international job and to live somewhere where friends and family can and will come visit. There is still so much unknown to get excited about.

Recently, standing in an old warehouse converted into a music venue in a trendy Melbourne neighbourhood watching the Brisbane band The Jungle Giants, I drunkenly smiled a bit and said, “I want the whole time to be awesome, not just the last 20 years.” And so here I go, it continues…

Lisa Vecchio, Tower Bridge, London

I won the Ultimate Gourmet Escape to Hobart, Tasmania

We’ve all seen those contests on Facebook and Instagram. They’re ever present. But do you ever sit back and think to yourself, who actually wins them? Would you believe it if I told you I won 3 in one week!

It all started with a raffle at artesian brewer Moon Dog. I had a couple of casual beers on a Saturday afternoon and before I knew it I walked away with a complimentary case of their intense annual brew Jumping the Shark. A few days later I had entered a contest on Facebook sponsored by local food guide The Urban List Melbourne and Crown Melbourne. I had won $200 to dine at world acclaimed Japanese restaurant Nobu. It was delicious of course.

But when my Instagram @Leeveca was pinged as the winner of The Ultimate Gourmet Escape presented by finedininglovers.com I couldn’t believe it. The prize included economy flights for two people to Hobart, Tasmania valued at $800, one night’s accommodation at MONA Pavilions valued at $700, MONA Gallery entry valued at $50, and dinner for two at Franklin Restaurant valued at $200.

When my friend Renee planned her visit from the US I gave her the ultimate ultimatum. In addition to adventuring around Melbourne, down the Great Ocean Road and across to Phillip Island, sailing the Whitsundays and snorkelling the Great Barrier Reef, she had to make a hard decision. Visit Australia’s most iconic city Sydney, or go rogue by adventuring to Tasmania to cash in my Ultimate Gourmet Escape prize. It was a no brainer, Tassie won.

After stepping off a 24-hour flight to Melbourne from Philadelphia via LAX and traveling by Sky Bus into Southern Cross Station, I quickly ushered her to my apartment in Richmond to shower, grab a quick bite and pack a small bag. A few hours later we were back at the airport sipping wine in the Qantas Lounge awaiting our flight to Hobart. Jetlag would have to wait.

View from Coal Valley Vineyard, Tasmania

Franklin is one of the hottest restaurants in Hobart right now and deservingly so. The kitchen is the epi-center of this simplistic, cement and timber themed eatery. Dining at the bar, our favourite part was observing the chefs expertly prepare each plate individually; taking their time as if it was their first. I envied both their patience and precision as there was definitely no rush to get it wrong.

Periwinkles @ Franklin Restaurant

Everything bar one dish was awesome. We experimented with periwinkles, a small sea snail with a surprisingly long body and questionably mushy finish. Not your typical escargot. We fought over the last oyster, bite of kingfish and wallaby tartare. The gamey wagyu however let us down. Renee comfortably slept off her jetlag that evening in the picturesque Victorian era-restored hotel Hadley’s Orient.

Boutique Wine Tours Tasmania led us on a journey the next day through the historic town of Richmond and to sample the famed pinot noir of the Coal River Valley. Having been through here a few times prior, David who guided the tour exceeded my expectations as we visited the oldest church, goal and bridge in Australia (just saying the country isn’t that old), sipped quality pinot and sparkling at my favourite family owned winery Pooley Wines, and tasted chilli cheddar and more outstanding cheese at Wicked Cheese. The hospitality at Richmond Tasting House as Renee tried the local whiskies and I sat trying all the food samples on repeat, was a highlight.

Oldest Bridge in Australia, Richmond, Tasmania

That evening we were welcomed into MONA Pavilions, one of 8 uniquely designed apartments that are situated on the museum property facing the River Derwent, each named after a famed Australian architect or artist, going for $700 a night! Luckily it was my birthday at midnight so we celebrated with the complimentary bottle of Moorilla Estate’s Muse Brut while ensuring we made the most out of the place, the Beatles turned up through each modern speaker fitted in the wall units and sipped our sparkling on the veranda overlooking the river. Ours was coincidentally named Robin, which is Renee’s middle name.

MONA Pavilions

The Source, the very upmarket and nationally respected contemporary, French-inspired restaurant at MONA was our biggest and most frustrating disappointment. While our server Alice was spunky and friendly, our sommelier appeared strangely depressed. The atmosphere, which seemed like a dated hotel function room, didn’t compliment the $200pp price tag for the 5-course degustation plus wine pairings. While I finished every bite of the Morton bugs with apple, wasabi and lime and the scallop gnocchi using a golden spork, I commented, “wow that was so interesting!” And “oooh, this is so weird.” But Renee said it right at the end, as we requested a cheese plate over dessert and found that to be one of the best bits. She said, “For $200 I don’t want an interesting meal, I want a delicious one.” So true, despite us both being very passionate about food, every dish definitely challenged by palette.

Golden spork @ The Source

Before flying out we spent the morning nursing our hangovers with Xavier, the fantastic host at the Moorilla Estate cellar door while working through a tasting flight of both the wines and Moo Brew beers.

Lisa & Renee @ Moorilla Cellar Door

We then entered MONA – the wacky Museum of New Art. The exhibition featured the works of Marina Abramovic and it was weird and wonderful. Dark spaces contained videos of people screaming at the top of their lungs, of a woman frantically biting her nails, and a rice counting room where we had to leave our phone and watches behind after putting on a lab coat. Once we entered the room of complete silence we were separated, then a scoop full of rice was presented in front of us. We sat there for about 15 minutes and I thought to myself, to work here for hours staring at people staring at rice in silence would be insane. We then ended the day with a tour of Moorilla Estate, yes more wine.

Mona grounds

MONA installation

Marina Abramovic

MONA Gallery tunnel

On our journey home we watched the sunset from the airplane window all the way back to Melbourne. It was a memorable birthday with an old friend in a beautiful part of the world. A special thanks to finedininglovers.com for making it all possible.

For more ideas on what to do in Tasmania check out my previous post: My Tasmanian Secrets

Sailing Croatia: Dubrovnik to Split

Prior to sailing the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia I had visions of wild nights dancing on a yacht with drink in hand while lounging in the Adriatic by day, the warm sun on my face and my feet overhanging a round floaty staring out at ancient ruins. The challenge of fulfilling this prophecy, or so I thought, was that I had a hard timeline of pre-35 years old.

I envisioned sunbathing, day drinking, dance parties and rambunctious nights with friendly strangers. But somehow venturing to Croatia got pushed back on my bucket list each year due to Indonesia, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, America and others. I wasn’t getting any younger but I’m not complaining because this year was going to be my year.

But I also had fears. I read review after review in preparation about Sail Croatia, Katarina Line and group bookings on Busabout and Contiki. It wasn’t just the age cut-off that made me nervous but realistically the demographic for the party boats are 18-year-old gap year students and immature Aussies their first time abroad. There were rumors of theft, 24-hour raves and claustrophobic, stifling hot cabins below deck with a mere porthole. My dream vacation and what was on offer were seriously disconnected.

But when it came time to prepare, my agenda slowly evolved from dance party to luxury yacht. Traveling with my sister made it easy to compromise as well. At first we said that a private bathroom was a must, of course. Then the cabin must be on the deck, not below. Oh yes, and air-conditioning was a requirement as it will be about 104°F (40°C). So, we unintentionally priced ourselves out of the backpacker options and found ourselves in an A+ cabin on a 5-night Dubrovnik to Split cruise with Katarina Line unknowingly upgraded to the brand new deluxe yacht M.V. Admiral. I didn’t complain.

I then fell in love with Croatia. It’s medieval architecture and passionate culture. The friendliness of the people, their excellent English and hospitality thrive on tourism, which meant that service was exquisite and opportunities to engage endless. “We’re not yelling we’re just Croatian,” explained Miho, our complimentary tour guide who navigated us through the walled city of Dubrovnik, stopping every few minutes to explain the culture, architecture and history, including the horror of the very recent Croatian War of Independence in the early 90’s.

Musicians Dubrovnik Wall

Dubrovnik terracota roofs and laundry

Dubrovnik tour guide Miho

The food and wine was simple but memorable. Each day was an indulgence, getting lost in the local community within the narrow cobblestone streets and stopping every few hours to try another wine and nosh on some bread, cheese or pasta. Italy’s influence was never forgotten. Also was the presence of its other neighbors like Bosnia and Serbia and one of our favorite meals was at Bosnian restaurant Taj Mahal. It was tucked away on a quiet stone street in Old Town, Dubrovnik yet the only sound was the queue to get a table to try the traditional bamija (veal stew simmered with okra, tomatoes and garlic) and the Cheerful Bosnian (veal stuffed with vegetables and cheese.)

Dubrovnik old town steps

The sun-faded terracotta roofs of Dubrovnik overlay the old city within a fortress created by century aged city walls. Everything is stone, the houses, the streets, the walls, the shops. It has seen many battles and yet looks effortlessly rebuilt to maintain its native charm, keeping tradition with every new burnt orange tile replacing a bombed out rooftop. At night the squares come alive with traditional music, as both tourists and locals sip Ožujsko beers and wait for the sun to set late in the evening to escape the scorching summer heat.

Dubrovnik terracotta rooftops

Dubrovnik Church

We found refuge in D’vino Wine Bar our first night. It’s here that we first learned about Croatian wines, the forefront of every meal. Our tasting flight of reds included the local grape plavac mali, and the 3 variations of plavac, postup, and dingac – each named and uniquely produced based on the position their vines grow, changing from light and fruity to full bodied and sweet as the sun reflects off the rocky coastline and Adriatic sea. After walking the city walls we thankfully relaxed in Buza Bar, a cliffside bar of tourists and locals sipping cocktails amongst the rocky coastal boulders and taking refuge in the accompanying sea.

Buza Bar, Dubrovnik

We stopped off our second night in what is jokingly termed the New York of Croatia. Trstenik is a small fishing village of approximate 56 people, and that’s during the high season. Sadly a local had set fire to the vineyards in the surrounding hillsides and tragically this village will be devastated for tourism for the next 15 or so years. Nik and I stopped in its small, family owned wine store šunj vina to taste their famed plavac mali and purchased a few mementos to contribute to the economic disaster.

Trstenik local fishermen

Wine tasting at šunj vina

Trstenik seaside

The piping hot sun would slowly roast our bodies while relaxing on the boat’s top deck, my skin darkening a new shade as each new day passed. After lunch we would pull into a new quiet alcove, the turquoise water so crystal clear you could see the dead coral and black sea urchins on the bottom while taking a welcome relief from the fiery heat. When it came time to dock in a new port midafternoon the Captain would park his shiny toy, carefully maneuvering next to the last ship to arrive, creating a massive obstacle course. Guests were expected to, what I termed “walk the plank,” or scarily step over the massive gap from ship to ship to reach the port. There were stories confirmed that people from time to time have missed the gap (likely due to being heavily intoxicated) but regardless, it was always a bit nerve racking and frankly not disabled friendly.

In the small, fishbone-shaped town of Korčula, the much disputed birth place of Marco Polo, we were introduced to the island’s native white wine varieties pošip and grk, in which the latter’s vines are so unique being all female it can’t replicate itself. We climbed the narrow, wooden ladder to the top of an ancient tower to sip cocktails at Massimo, attended an unimpressive (due to the lack of wine education involved) sit down wine tasting at an upmarket hotel, and then attempted to party with the backpackers at a disco leaving disappointed with a Croatian pita kebab in hand. I uncovered then that my favorite pastime from this trip so far was just aimlessly wondering and getting lost amongst the antiquated streets by day.

Massimo Cocktail Bar, Korcula

Cute cafe Korcula

Marco Polo, Korcula

Beyonce put Hvar on the map with her visit in 2011 making this small seaside town the “it” holiday destination for jetsetters. Private luxury yachts, world class cuisine and nightlife and a view from the top of the Spanish Fortica would make any friend ooze with jealousy. We found haven in Wine Bar Pršuta 3 to the sound of rock music and free wifi while dabbling in their best pošip and later nibbling on Dalmatian prosciutto, olives and fresh seafood.

Hvar harbour

Top of Spanish Fortica, Hvar

View from Adriana Hotel Hvar

Our journey ended in Split, the second largest city in Croatia where we were told by a stout 9-year-old boy that we could not pass through while navigating the ancient rubble of Diocletian’s Palace as a casual game of soccer amongst the local boys was being held. We devoured cone after cone of gelato, tasted variations of olive oil at Uje Oil Bar, had the best pistachio gnocchi of my life at modern bistro Bokeria and then mingled amongst the ivy and graffiti with regulars at the funky bar Academia Club Ghetto. The service, cheese selection and wine list at Paradox Wine & Cheese Bar was unparalleled.

Cute puppies, Split, Croatia

Our boutique accommodation, a 25-minute stroll from the port, at Divota Apartment Hotel was the quiet serenity we needed to close out the trip. We rented eco bikes for the day, and squealed with glee as we peddled a few rounds then zoomed off on our motorized cycle, speeding up hills as we wove through the thick trees of Marjan Forest Park and passed renaissance hermitage caves built into the seaside cliffs. Far from modest sunbathers were scattered along the rocky coast, resting on any flat surface to embrace the warm summer sun and refreshing pools along the bay.

Diocletian’s Palace

Locals sunbathing in Marjan Forest Park

renaissance hermitage caves, Marjan Forest Park

Departing from Split airport, the carnage of the party boats was present in every corner of the small international terminal, as hungover bodies were strewn across the terminal gate floors and the line to purchase a simple bottle of water was a 25 minute wait. It was then that I reflected back on the M.V. Admiral and smiled with no regrets.

Bordeaux, My Gastronomic Adventure

But why Bordeaux? This was the response I received when going over my itinerary for #Eurotrip2015. London was a no brainer and Croatia has been on my bucket list for years. But as more and more people questioned my French destination of choice I was starting to get nervous that I had overlooked something obvious. Was Bordeaux no good? I mean sure, I much prefer Burgundy wines but then again I’m sure Bordeaux won’t be that hard for me to swallow.

Katrina Miranda in Bordeaux

Is it an oxymoron to say the city is both medieval and young at the same time? It’s active, vibrant and lively contrasted against dark ancient stoned walls, gothic churches and quiet narrow alleyways. Katrina described it as monotone: brown river, cream buildings, grey cobblestones. But it’s 9 pm in the summer and there is no sign of dusk. University students quickly scoot by on skateboards and sit outside smoking cigarettes while drinking espresso at cafes next to tattoo parlours, vintage shops and guitar stores.

Espresso in Bordeaux

Église Notre-Dame

Bell Tower Bordeaux

Apollo Cafe Bordeaux

Bordeaux – Statue à l’Esplanade Des Quinconces

Rue Sainte-Catherine, one of the largest pedestrian-only shopping streets in all of Europe is its main artery running through its centre. Cheap city bikes can be rented from all corners of the architectural haven and are used by both locals and tourists to navigate the shadowy historic maze. It’s a very liveable place for sure.

Both a city and a region, Bordeaux provides fresh, delectable food and well-produced wine to every doorstep. On the Garonne River’s left bank sits Medoc, it’s gravel and clay producing deep, full bodied cabernet sauvignons while on it’s right the clay and limestone in St. Emilion produce juicy, fruit-forward merlot. My glass is never empty and then I understand. Bordeaux is my gastronomic adventure.

Garonne River Bordeaux

The oysters are so fresh you order them by size – medium, large or extra-large. There is only one option: raw. The seabass comes with its head intact but with the right movement the flesh softly falls from the bone while the salmon carpaccio melts on my tongue. The cheese is aged and my monsieur croquet strong and heavy, the traditional way. The pate is thick and rich and the generous sliced baguettes are endless. There is no Maille mustard to accompany it. That’s only for Paris and we’re in Bordeaux after all. My favourite meals were the chevre salad with honey and walnuts while dining al fresco at Karl and beef tartare with watermelon and roasted tomatoes at the modern French bistro Le Chien De Pavlov.

Lisa Vecchio @ Karl, Bordeaux; Courtesy of Katrina Miranda

Le Bistro Régent

Chèvre Salad @ Karl

The only way to truly experience it was to aimlessly wonder and get lost amongst the streets, stopping every few hours to try a new delicacy and to sip a new wine while watching the locals carry on with their lives. The second day we rented bikes, which gave us the same freedom to explore but allowed us to delve deeper into the city streets, to the botanical gardens, and over the bridge to the city outskirts.

Getting lost

Le Lion – Bordeaux

Botanical Gardens – Bordeaux

Isabel from Bordeaux Tourism was friendly and helpful and booked us on a wine river cruise later that evening. It was like a disorganized frat party for old people – chaos to consume as much wine as possible while Jerome the wine maker from Chateau Madran rambled on in French and we sat observing with our crusty bread and orange cheese just taking it all in, not understanding a word.

Jerome from Chateau Madran

And then there was the highlight, Rustic Vines and the Famous Monk Tour the following day. Run by two Kiwi’s, Scottie the hottie educated us on the 60 appellations of Bordeaux, the rigid rules on how to blend the wine and the 10,000 plus chateaus in the region. We visited the picturesque medieval town of St. Emilion, mingled with Hugo in the cellar of Chateau La Gaffeliere to learn about French oak and sampled Grand Cru Classe from Aussie Gregg at Bordeaux Classique wine store. Richard, the only Australian chateau owner in Bordeaux confirmed that the French don’t believe in ghosts so he wasn’t concerned for his 15^th century property Chateau Melliac. In his garden we picnicked on melon, jamon, cheese and macaroons. Richard told us he used think that Australian wine was everything until the French showed him their art and he had never looked back. I now feel way more confident knowing what to look for when choosing French wine.

Scottie the hottie

Richard of Chateau Melliac

Katrina @ Chateau Melliac

Chateau La Gaffeliere

I almost could have had one more day. Eating my croissant while waiting for my flight to London I realised then that Bordeaux was it, the grown up Europe I had been envisioning. Bordeaux left me with a smile. It’s safe, I felt confident, people were friendly, there was no crime or begging plus it is a foodie paradise. I would recommend to anyone to have a visit.

Lisa Vecchio, St. Emilion; Courtesy of Katrina Miranda

Top 5 New Wine Learning’s From the WSET Level 1 Course

In my effort to become a professional wine drinker I’ve decided I’ll need to step up my game. I’ve been to nearly every major wine region in Australia and New Zealand, have visited vineyards in the US and South Africa, and next month I’ll tackle the ever famous Bordeaux and often overlooked vineyards of coastal Croatia.

But recently I accepted, with increased encouragement (i.e. nagging) from my mother, that a wine qualification outside of the many wine festivals and events I attend throughout the year, in addition to my far too regular consumption within my own apartment, would really provide the deeper understanding that I need – both as an enthusiast and one with interest in working with the industry.

Last weekend I completed the internationally recognized Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) Level 1 Award in Wines (QCF). I walked away reassured of my pre-existing knowledge of wine varietals, tasting, pouring, storing and food pairing. However, there were definitely a few new things I learned as well. And while I’m pretty confident that I passed the exam, I’m still eagerly waiting for my old-school pencil-filled-in-scantron test to be sent to the UK, then the results mailed back to Australia, so that I can receive an email notifying me that I have passed and then I will go to the Wine House to pick up my certificate and lapel pin.

WSET: Level 1 Course @ The Wine House: Melbourne

Top 5 new wine learning’s from the WSET Level 1 Course:

A Champagne bottle should be tilted at a 30-degree angle and you should twist the bottle, not the cork when opening.

Rinse my wine glasses thoroughly before pouring wine. I’ve never previously considered the affects of detergent on the wine flavors.

I don’t quite have the whole food/wine-pairing thing down as well as I thought and should practice more on how acid, sweetness, spiciness, salt and bitterness affect the taste of wine.

Confusion between Burgundy (pinot noir) and Bordeaux (cabernet sauvignon and merlot) is now clarified. Great timing since I had already booked my trip to Bordeaux.

Sauternes is a sweet white wine I’ve never heard of but will likely try while in Bordeaux very soon.

Next up on my list is completing WSET® Level 2 Award Wines and Spirits (QCF) to learn more in depth knowledge on wine making, wine regions, varietals and food pairing. The challenge here is the astronomical cost associated with it so you could say I’m open to sponsorship. Wink wink. If you’re interested in where classes are offered in your region, visit the WSET website. And if you’re ever looking to share a great vintage, you know who to turn to!

Surviving Survivor Island: Pulau Tiga

“Be careful of the monkeys. The monkeys like the woman. I don’t know why, but if you are a woman you should walk with your friend because the monkeys really like you.”

The instructions were simple. Walk with a friend and a monkey won’t assault you. At night, carry a flashlight so you don’t step on a snake. It’s called Survivor Island for a reason, right?

Survivor Island Group Shot

Over a below average lunch buffet of chicken bones cooked in curry, steamed vegetables and rice, I dropped my chopsticks mid-bite. A 4-foot long monitor lizard was casually walking across the grass just outside the pavilion. Later that night while playing a game of cards under the same pavilion a local wandered over and asked if we wanted to see a snake. Coiled around his arms he held a mid-size yellow ring snake that he just caught out back. Luckily I brought my bike light with me to safely navigate my way back to our cabin. Just as we approached, fist-sized crabs and large rats scurried away from the shining light into large deep holes at the base of the steps leading to our accommodation. We played a few more rounds of cards using mangrove leaves as poker chips while drinking Tiger beers to forget the proximity of the wild as we were also encouraged to ensure our window screens and doors were securely locked.

Ben playing cards

Monitor Lizard

Wild Monkeys on Survivor Island

Pulau Tiga is a small, uninhabited island off of the west coast of Borneo, Malaysia in the South China Sea. As the first place to host the reality TV show Survivor, it’s commonly nicknamed Survivor Island. Surprisingly, there was no cheesy décor or leftover remnants of the year 2000 at Survivor Island Resort. In fact, for our one night stay on the island it was conveniently just us and two other families. That meant we had first dibs on exclusive empty beaches, food, snorkeling and breathtaking sunsets. Upon arrival we eagerly lazed around on rope hammocks underneath thatched roofs made from the palm trees. Not too bad for being on a remote island.

Relaxing on Pulau Tiga

Sunset Pulau Tiga

At 3 o’clock we joined a local guide for a 20 minute hike into the forest to experience a natural mud volcano. After walking uphill on a dirt path, eyes carefully scanning the forest for monkeys or any other natural ‘friend’, we finally arrived at what looked simply like a small pool of mud. Bubbles boiled while mosquito-like bugs the size of a quarter layered the top, casually hopping over each other to fill any gaps. Without thought, the middle-aged Dad from the French family we hiked along with took his shirt off and walked right into the dark goo followed by his 7-year-old daughter. I mean, it was the sole purpose of journey so why hesitate?

“Is it cold?” “What does it feel like?” “Is it deep?” I watched my travel buddies Ben and Nidya get in next. I still wasn’t convinced but it had to be done. Gulp. One foot after the other I slid into the slippery mess. It was thick and putrid. I envisioned it being soft like melting into a milkshake but in reality it was just mud. Heavy, with leafs and twigs engulfed in its concentrated mass. The bottom was like walking through a swamp, sinking with no firm bottom. My thoughts went to leaches.

Mud Volcano

Getting into Mud Volcano

Empty Mud Volcano

So there we were. The three of us caked in mud, hesitant to submerge our top halves in any further. Our guide was encouraging as he snapped photos, suggesting to put it on our face and float in its density. Pictures snapped? Okay, I want out. That was the tricky part as it was deep and slimy. Even trickier was hiking downhill through the jungle with bare feet wearing nothing but a bathing suit as the rancid mud dried all over my body and face. With relief we arrived at the ocean and spent the next half hour wallowing in its warmth while cleansing ourselves of the crust. I do say however, it did wonders for my skin. Wink wink.

The following day we opted for a tour out to Snake Island. This simply consisted of us traveling about 15 minutes by boat to a small deserted island where highly venomous Yellow-lipped Sea Kraits or Banded Sea Kraits live between rocks and the sea. Before entering the dirt path our guide pointed to a sign stating that we are entering at our own risk into an area with poisonous snakes. One bite and you are dead within 5 minutes. This is when I started to have doubts. As we wound around to the side of the island, we began to climb over large boulders. The guide was further ahead, ducking his head around and underneath the rocks. It then occurred to us, he was looking for the snakes! That meant they could be anywhere! Um, I don’t think I need to go any further.

Warning on Snake Island

My friends marched ahead, skipping from each boulder to the next to catch up with our guide. As they got further away and I stood alone on top of a large rock I started to wonder if it was smart for me to now be all alone. Both the guide and Nidya urged me on, and came to lend a hand so I could join the group. They had found the snakes, a handful of them lay coiled together underneath a large rock where the ocean met the land. It was enough to take a quick peek at the small, silvery serpents before rushing back to the safety of our boat.

Snake Island: Snakes!

We were lucky that day to witness a pod of dolphins dancing around our boat which provided an amusing spectacle. The island just next door was Sand Spit Island, a long stretch of golden sand that appeared as if it thrown up from the sea. Getting a closer glimpse while walking along it’s shore, which you can cross the width in a few long strides, it was disappointing to see all the plastic bottles and trash that covered it.

Dolphins

Lisa on Sand Spit Island

Ben and Nidya

Nidya on Sand Spit Island

Shortly afterward we docked in the clear blue sea to have a snorkel. While aspects of the reef were damaged we still experienced an array of bright, neon fish of all shapes and sizes, including angel, clown and of course, Nemo. Our guide was really awesome and attentive, pointing out fish as he swam along with us but unfortunately we didn’t get to see any sea turtles that day.

Nidya Snorkeling

When it came time to pack up and leave Survivor Island, despite an amazing time of sun and adventure, I was ready to move on. I was done with bad food and questionable toilets although happily impressed with the staff. If you’re okay to scrape by without the luxury of a boutique resort, this is for you. It’s simple and different, and if I had do it all over again I have no regrets of experiencing something so unique.

To book, visit Amazing Borneo: http://www.amazing-borneo.com/daily-local-tour/2d1n-pulau-tiga-survivor-island-explorer-with-sandspit-a-snake-island.html

Kuala Lumpar Food Safari

Malaysia Mural

“Today is about a group of friends eating and sharing stories,” said Carlson from Urban Adventures upon greeting us at Bangsar Station LRT to begin our 4-hour walking tour amongst the best local street food Kuala Lumpur has to offer. In fact, Carlson would argue he took us to the “best of the best” and it is the only true walking tour in KL. I wouldn’t argue my day spent in the River City exploring the stimulating flavors of this Chinese, Indian and Malay melting pot was a highlight.

We began by walking through the residential Indian-influenced community of Brickfields and were told the history of the area while stopping to look at a traditional Brickfield home, a 75 year-old Muslim cemetery and Garland Alley, where fresh, fragrant jasmine from the Cameron Highlands is used for temples and offerings. Just the ladies from our small group of 7 were given a beautiful, colorful bracelet to wear.

Brickfields Commercial Area

Garland Bracelet Buddies

Jasmine Braclet

Garland Ally, KL

Tarani Food Corner, our first official food stop and hands down my favorite of the day is small and family owned. The wife serves while the husband is the chef. We sat amongst the locals while rotating fans spraying mist provided a welcoming escape from the humidity. On banana leafs we ate with our right hand, mixing rice, spicy chicken masala, tangy mango pickles, lentil curry, and cabbage while using our thumb to spoon it into our mouths. We then finished it of with resam, a traditional Indian digestive. I left feeling overwhelmingly full unaware that was only our first dish out of 6 for the day.

Tarani’s Food Corner

Eating with her hands

Tarani’s Indian Feast

Immediately following we stopped at a roadside vadai stall, which offered a variety of vegetarian fried treats. Most popular were lentil donuts, curry puffs with potato masala and of course, the undeniably awesome fried banana fritters. The donuts made from rice flour contain chili curry leaves, which are eaten to prevent grey hairs.

Vadai shop

Continuing along we transitioned to the commercial side of what is known as Little India 2. We learned that this community, popular with Hindu’s, is rather new. It’s only been on the radar from 2007 and is often overshadowed by the original Little India, which is more Muslim dominant. However, our next treat was super sickly sweet. Gulap Jamun is a sticky syrup dessert ball. I was so full; I couldn’t even finish the bite size indulgence.

Gulap Jamun

While walking through the equivalent of the ‘red light district’ we were told to look out for “special people,” although Carlson wouldn’t immediately tell us what to spot. Pimps lined the streets, each sitting on a chair protecting their open door, but they were not the special people he was referring to.

We stopped on a busy street corner where locals lined up to get a serve of cendol, the cool shaved ice dessert. An older woman served the shaved ice with coconut milk and plum sugar topped off with green rice jelly that looked like worms making the super sweet, yet refreshing treat popular with adults and children. The man then took his machete and in a few swift moves opened a coconut shell turning it into a revitalizing drink served out of a plastic bag. While our group relaxed consuming the celebrated 52-year-old cendol recipe we finally identified the special people Carlson was referring to.

Making cendol

Cendol

Eating cendol and drinking coconut juice

The blind and disabled from all over Malaysia come to Brickfields for jobs. The Urut Tradisional PB Blind Massage, owned by Paralympic athletes, provides training and job opportunities within the local community and the most common is blind massage. It’s pretty awesome when you think about it.

Just across the road were the “best banana fritters in all of KL.” For 35 years the father and son team have been dishing out the famed “secret recipe” at this popular roadside stand. In fact, Carlson tells us they are doing so well that they both own 5-series BMW’s. Not too bad for a simple banana business.

Making banana fritters

“Best banana fritter in all of KL”

Banana fritter stall

At that point we fortunately had a quick break to use the clean bathrooms in KL Sentral before hopping the LRT to Pasar Seni LRT Station for our next and final stop, Chinatown. We spent a few minutes admiring a 125-year-old Taoist warrior temple and patted the lions out front for good luck before navigating the stalls of knock off bags, jewelry and watches in Jalan Petaling Market.

Taoist warrior temple

Over our final meal, which I had barely enough room left in me for, Carlson shared some of his personal stories. When he’s not helping his uncle with the business part time he studies law. But certain aspects of the food tour have taken its toll. He went from 68K to 122K in just four months and has since refrained from dining with his guests. That is until this last stop.

It was a fairly popular place in the heart of the action, likely considering it’s one of the few in Chinatown with air-conditioning. Then again, it’s also been around for over 60 years and known for its hokkain noodles, which of course we got. We then tried a huge range of dishes, from the pow (pork bun) to fried egg yoke noodles, penang char keuh teow served on a banana leaf and it was super yum to spicy Chinese laksa and low si fun, or what locals call rat tail noodles. It didn’t seem to stop. On the side we drank lime juice with sweet plums and cold Chinese tea.

Even more, Carlson was so encouraging, happy to order more and more and let us try whatever ticked our fancy. Our bellies were so full that we wished the gang safe travels and fortunately were in walking distance to our accommodation. Unfortunately, despite being close by, we didn’t manage to beat the daily afternoon rain shower.

Chinatown eatery with air conditioning

Rat tail noodles

Lime juice,pow (pork bun) and fried egg yoke noodle

Jalan Petaling Market

I would totally recommend this tour to anyone visiting KL. Carlson was friendly, affable and interesting. The tour was contained to a small group and personalized to our needs. They clearly have a daily spending budget so if you want a bottle of water or an extra serve of anything throughout the day it’s catered for.

Despite our bellies being maxed out we had a reservation that evening for fine dining at Fuego, part of Trioka Sky Dining. A bit heftier on the wallet than our budget courses that afternoon, Fuego is an open air restaurant on the 23rd floor specializing in South American cuisine. Yes, the food, service and drinks were all standout but the best part was the view, situated just across from the iconic Petronas Towers. The 6:30 seating is ideal for catching the magnificent towers by day, at sunset and dusk. I would totally eat there again and again.

There is a moral to this food driven story. If you are hungry, go to KL. You won’t be disappointed.

Drinks at Fuego

Fuego menu

Petronas Towers

Klias River: No Monkey Business

Klias River Locals

A quick flash followed by a loud boom. I squealed with fear and anxiety – nothing unusual there – as my apprehension about being in our small boat on the Klias River in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo grew wider. “Uh oh” said our driver Musa, apathetic about the approaching storm. I replied curtly, “What do you mean, uh oh?”

He revved the engine over and over again but to no avail. It had officially died right there as we sat in the pitch black dark observing fireflies light up the bush like a schizophrenic Christmas tree.

The family of four from Cairns at the front seemed less concerned, despite the fact they weren’t sharing our covered roof. We later learned this wasn’t their first rodeo with failed engines while vacationing in Borneo. A metal pole then appeared, and Musa repeatedly whipped it against the botched engine. Confused about how that would contribute to it actually starting, I still don’t know, but another rumble of thunder bellowed and I had enough.

There were other boats in the area but he never asked for help. We simply sat wading in the murky brown waters as their torch lights caught sight of us then steered away. Small, single engine river cruisers line the mangrove banks of the Klias River offering tourists the opportunity to see the endangered, genital-nosed Proboscis Monkey as well as Long Tail Macaques and Silver Languor Monkeys by day and the natural firefly show at night, which is exactly how we had spent the earlier part of our day.

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“So, what’s the plan?” I finally said after about 20 minutes of silence. No response. Musa simply walked from his place by the engine and crossed over us and the small benches we were sitting on to the reach the front. Without hesitation he pulled his sweat drenched t-shirt over his head, and then removed his rubber flip flops one by one. Head first, he dove into the dark river below.

My jaw dropped and we all quickly faced each other wide eyed and stunned. “Did he really just jump in?” With one end of the thin rope tied to the boat, he slowly swam and pulled us about a kilometre to shore. Once we reached the dock we were quickly ushered off of the boat so that we could make it into the van to travel the approximate two hours back to Kota Kinabulu before the storm hit. But we all hesitated as Musa still waded in the unfriendly muddy water. “He’s a very good swimmer,” was the reply I received when I asked with uneasiness if he was okay. Finally a few hands lifted him out, and our small group gave a big applause. Musa – our hero – who unnecessarily swam us back to shore.

Borneo Star Cruises

Despite the drastic change in events, I would still highly recommend touring the Klias River while in Borneo, especially if you can’t get to the Kinabatangan River located deeper in Sabah. While there are many river cruises along the Klias River, this Borneo Star Cruise tour was organized through Amazing Borneo and I must applaud their attentiveness and service. Joann spoke great English; we were picked up and dropped off in a timely fashion, welcomed with simple, immaculate bathrooms (very important) and were served a delicious home cooked Malaysian dinner. While the other companies were swarming with tourists in the dozens, our small group of ten was intimate and personalized. I would even recommend those with more time stay the night in one of their tranquil tee pee’s on the property’s Eco Fire Fly Camp. Plus, you can’t deny that Musa was awesome.

Adventuring the Great Ocean Road

“Iconic Australia,” they say. “Car stopping scenery,” they’ve boasted. “Breathtaking natural wonders,” I read.

And it’s all true. The 243-kilometer stretch of road along Victoria’s Southeast coast is certainly to be admired. Even better, as a first timer I learned that what I like to lazily refer to as the GOR (Great Ocean Road) is the world’s longest war memorial; built from 1919 to 1932 in remembrance of those who died in WWI by it’s own returning soldiers.

Just like them we had a plan. Luckily though we averaged more than 3 kilometers a month. Leaving early on a Saturday morning we took the highway coupled with some back roads and traveled inland for about 4 hours directly to Warrnambool, the largest city along the Road just near its start. From there, we slowly made our way along the coast back toward Melbourne while seeing what was on offer.

Great Ocean Roadtrip

And as far as Warrnambool is concerned I’ll tell you what’s on offer. Kermond’s Hamburgers is its biggest claim to fame and rightfully so! This old-school joint, still serving thick malted milkshakes in white aprons, was packed to the rafters. They keep the menu simple: burger, fried onions and bun. Customize it with normal stuff: tomatoes, lettuce, cheese or Aussie add-ons i.e. fried egg, beetroot, mayo. “Every bite of that vinegar jalapeno was like heaven in my mouth,” my Aussie travel companion slash foodie Nidya, slurred with her last bite.

Kermond’s Hamburgers Bag

Kermond’s Hamburgers Diner

Kermond’s Hamburgers Sign

We left excited to officially start our GOR journey but were quickly disappointed once we entered Allansford Cheese World. With a name such as Cheese World they set pretty high expectations. I mean, we practically did a 180 to get there as one would assume according to their advertising that there would be a monumental amount of cheese coupled with delicate wine tasting. What we experienced though was a service station, fast-food restaurant, Yellowtail retailer and tourist shop rolled into one. In the back, in the small room labeled Cheese, we were resurrected by delectable aged cheddars and somehow walked away with a varietal of 5 hefty wedges to consume over the weekend.

Cheese World

We traveled on and just as we began to smell the salty sea air and the coast came into view the sky turned overcast and it began to drizzle. We pulled off at the first few scenic lookouts to get some early snaps in a foggy view of the cerulean ocean contrasted against amazing limestone formations. I was starting to panic that my once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to snap the much anticipated – the whole reason we drove for hours and hours – this is not really happening I’m sure it will clear up any second – no really, is it seriously raining – iconic rock formations would be ruined by fowl weather.

Scenic Drive Great Ocean Road

King of the World

Great Ocean Road Sign

Finally we reached the holy grail of Port Campbell, home to the famed Twelve Apostles (now actually ten) and “heart of the Great Ocean Road”. The tourist buses lined the parking lot and the selfie sticks were endless. I was thankful that I canceled the tour I booked six months ago and was here on my terms, or at least in a small group of intimate friends thanks to Wes’ amazing patience and driving skills.

But we were fast about it while still taking it all in. My head unknowingly blocked endless selfies and my hair whipped against my face causing a uni-brow in nearly every picture. Just as we were about to depart and began walking away the clouds cleared and the sun shimmered causing the right light on the striking water. It was stunning. Camera out, I finally got my shots. We could conclusively rest for the evening.

Lisa Vecchio at Twelve Apostles

Twelve Apostles Uni-brow

Ten Apostles

Selfies Twelve Apostles

Twelve Apostles

In Apollo Bay, our 4-bed lofted studio at Coastal Motel offered the right mix of comfort and location just across from the beach and walking distance to all of the charming restaurants and shops in town. Even better, we had a heap of cheese to consume along with boutique wine and beers we brought with us. In fact, the week prior I had just won a case of 14% (ABV) Jumping the Shark (Hungarian oak barrel-aged saffron’d imperial red ale aka intense) from Melbourne craft brewers Moon Dog and needed a team to consume them with. The Fonz couldn’t have done it alone either.

Sunday morning we were back on the road heading inland to explore Great Otway National Park and the Otway Fly Treetop Adventures. Word to the wise, the winding, twisting, I-was-near-vomiting curves of the road to get there are to be cautioned about. But for real, my window was rolled down and my head was hanging out like a fatigued dog. $25 is a steep fare to walk on steel structures at the top of some trees and better value if you opted for their zip lining tours albeit for a much heftier price. We proudly boasted that between four of us we had zip lined in South Africa, Peru, and Laos so gave that a pass. But at 25 meters above the ground, the lush rainforest and distinct natural fauna made for a unique walk and we had no regrets for the experience, despite us nauseatingly needing to snake back the way we came once in the car.

Otway Fly Group Shot

Caterpillar in Otway National Park

Big Tree in Otway Park

Sky Tower at Otway Fly

Otway National Park

Friends at Otway Fly Adventures

Further along the coast sat the most amazing pub in the small town of Wye River. Wye Beach Hotel is more than just a charismatic beachfront bar and restaurant. Its exquisite food, coupled with an unexpected local beer selection and epicurean wine list was remarkable. For a true quiet holiday off the grid I’d recommend staying at one of the small hillside lodges. We closed our evening off with a curry back at local yet upmarket Apollo Bay Hotel before our final stretch home the following day.

Wye River Pub

Friends at Wye River

Surf at Wye River

Wye River Beach

Some of the best and curviest parts of the drive are around the quintessential beach town of Lorne. Shopping, restaurants, bars and beach – this popular spot with Melbournians was very busy on the sunny Monday. Luckily we were able to snag a table for breakfast at Lorne Beach Pavilion overlooking the beautiful sea to the sweet sound of children running and crying everywhere. Full on avocado smash, we parked ourselves at the edge of the sand and took in a few rays before continuing on and passing under the famed Great Ocean Road sign.

Relaxing in Lorne

Lorne Beach

Great Ocean Road Lookout

Great Ocean Road Sign

Now here’s the best part of coming home. We missed out, or actually intentionally avoided the popular seaside towns of Anglesea, Torquay, Jan Juc and others on our way back to the city in order to side track to the Bellarine Peninsula just outside of Geelong.

Terindah Estate and Jack Rabbit Vineyard share both a driveway and the coastline offering picturesque backdrops of vine against sea to sip against yet are two separate wineries. Applause to Will at Terindah for an exquisite presentation of their wines and scoring us a seat in the fully booked out restaurant to taste beautiful kangaroo, dory and lamb. Terindah was an all around standout! Their Chardonnay soft and buttery, Pinot Gris and Sauv Blanc surprisingly untraditional and their Shiraz/Viognier and Pinot Noir no brainers. I bought them all and want to come back again and again and again. So I will…

Terindah Estate Group Shot

Cycling the Vineyards of Marlborough, New Zealand

Two of my favorite things include sunshine and wine. Throw me on a bike on a cloudless day and give me a map of the boutique vineyards in the heart of the Marlborough wine region and honestly, it was one of the best tasting experiences I’ve ever had.

Lisa in Marlborough

Tasting in Marlborough has long been on my list of wine regions to conquer. In fact, considering its remoteness in a quiet northeast corner of the South Island, New Zealand, I was starting to fear I would never get an opportunity to go. Partially because I think my appreciation for its world-renowned Sauvignon Blanc grape outwore its welcome on my pallet years ago. Secondly, it’s just not super convenient to get to.

I have a special fondness for New Zealand. I’d even go as far to say I love it. If you asked me to live there for a short while I’d be hard pressed to say no. Another reason it was crucial that I get myself to Marlborough. My favorite part about New Zealand is flying over it. With the terrain ever changing, lush green contrasted against snowy mountain peaks and azure water, it’s absolutely breathtaking. Every time, I’m reminded again of my first time, looking out of the airplane window in 2011, and it’s always equally as majestic.

North Island Volcano

In terms of getting to Marlborough my friends took the Interislander Ferry across from Wellington to Picton. At the same time I witnessed from above the stunning alcoves of the tiny islands their boat wove between while flying down from Auckland to Blenheim. Knee deep in my inflight magazine I took a quick break to gaze out of the window and my mouth involuntarily dropped. Just below the clouds sat a volcano. This was just before I passed from the North Island down to the South Island. Shortly afterward the striking coastline came into view.

South Island Northern Coast

My three Australian friends greeted me at the Blenheim airport with a big “Welcome to New Zealand” as if they were locals. And while Blenheim isn’t much to offer up socially, it is just on the cusp of the vineyards and has a range of accommodation and a few noteworthy bars and restaurants, such as Scotch. We stayed in a small cottage in the back of a B&B called Tresco. The owner Ian and adorable terrier Dudley were friendly and accommodating and it was only a short 10-minute walk to town. At night, the residential streets were quiet and the stars shone bright. It is true the Milky Way can be seen on this side of the world.

Drinks at Scotch: Blenheim

But enough of Blenheim (jokingly termed phlegm-em). Let’s talk wine.

Wine Tours By Bike have a great thing going. Family run by Steve and Jo Hill, they made it all so easy. That’s the thing; the day was more or less completely on our own terms. We booked in advance to be picked up from one of the three 5-hour long timeslots and were greeted with a big smile and handshake from Fred, Jo’s dad who drove us to the bike shed in Renwick. Set on a beautiful B&B property Hillsfield House, we were instantly asked to pick a bike from the lot parked out front. Told that just like a person no bike is the same, we tested them for height and seat comfortableness before analyzing how large each of our heads actually was during a helmet fitting. The award went to Rob.

Wine Tours by Bike Crew: Courtesy of Ceri

Steve gave us an amazingly detailed, yet brief overview of the vineyards in the vicinity of Renwick while we, along with some locals which are always a good sign, observed as he pointed them out against a white map pinned against the wall. My group then huddled together, our paper copies in hand and highlighter at the ready, mapping out how to tackle the afternoon and fit in all of our top spots. Water bottle, check. Lunch reservation, check. Social media post, check. And we were off!

Wine Tour Group Selfie: Courtesy of Wes

Wobbling a bit when we set out, we eagerly headed to our farthest destination first, yet the most boutique. Te Whare Ra’s small quiet property impressed us with both their Riesling D (dry) and M (medium) so much that none of us left empty handed. In fact, it was my most favored tasting of the day and my only regret is not purchasing a case.

I traveled on, steadied on my African cruiser bike, with a smile from ear to ear. We dashed through the back of a vineyard on our way to another, taking shortcuts on dirt paths as we were hugged by the vines and the monstrous mountain peaks at the perimeter towered over us. The sun was hot, but in a good way. Then, the wind picked up and it was so strong, peddling against it turned our leisurely cruise into a battle of resistance.

Cycling Marlborough

At Giesen we had a delicious vintage platter for lunch yet an offensive wine host ruined the experience unfortunately, so much in fact I wouldn’t recommend a visit. At Hans Herzog it was worth the cost of a tasting to be blown away with their exquisite presentation. It was the only Sauv Blanc I purchased in Marlborough, and for the cost it’s a keeper. Framingham won our hearts with free shipping to Australia so of course we bought a case between the four of us, but not without Mary Jo’s amazing attentiveness in pouring our Riesling flights. We finished the day lounging on bean bags on the lawn at Forrest, where fellow American Katrina won me over with their 2011 Chenin Blanc.

John Lennon at Framingham

Forrest Wines

Tasting at Framingham

Mary Jo at Framingham

Hans Herzog

Vintage Platter at Giesen

The Fudge Factory

Awesome Bike Quote

Giesen

Te Whare Ra

Peddling back at the end of the day, still smiling while taking in the landscape, the pureness of the area and of the wineries really took hold. In fact, while I had a general distaste for what I had assumed was the mass production of sauvignon blanc, biking through the region and seeing the smaller farms and family vineyards gave me a whole other appreciation for it. But also, more impressive was the execution of other varieties likes riesling, pinot gris and pinot noir. I’ve done a lot of wine touring, but cycling and tasting through the vineyards of Marlborough takes the cake! Settling in around the picnic table back at Tresco later that evening we barbequed local fish and vegetables while sipping some of our favorite wins from the day.

Wine Tours by Bike

These Two Eyes!

Welcome to These Two Eyes! Follow along for travel, food and experience recommendations across the world!

Author: These Two Eyes

Goodbye Melbourne, Hello Again… London

I won the Ultimate Gourmet Escape to Hobart, Tasmania

Sailing Croatia: Dubrovnik to Split

Bordeaux, My Gastronomic Adventure

Top 5 New Wine Learning’s From the WSET Level 1 Course

Surviving Survivor Island: Pulau Tiga

Kuala Lumpar Food Safari

Klias River: No Monkey Business

Adventuring the Great Ocean Road

Cycling the Vineyards of Marlborough, New Zealand

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