Living Life in Earls Vegas (aka Earlsfield, London)

So, what’s it like living in Earlsfield, London? The self-proclaimed Earls Vegas?

Earlsfield Station, London

I’ll not only share how I ended up living in this family-friendly haven of SW London but also 8 reasons why you should visit Earlsfield too.

Since moving back to the UK in 2015 I’ve made Southwest London my home. This city, divided by those who claim eternal loyalty to either living north or south of the river Thames, was a place I’d lived twice prior (2003, 2006) however this was my first venture living South. I’ll let you in on a little secret though, I absolutely love it. My loyalty to SW London now stands stronger than I ever imagined.

My first home was off of trendy Northcote Road in Clapham Junction. Whilst Clapham is coined “Nappy Valley” due to the abundance of affluent young families and strollers/buggies, it also has a reputation for its twenty-something party scene and abundance of Aussie, Kiwis and Saffas.

Clapham is technically split across 4 areas and transport links: Clapham High Street, Clapham North, Clapham South and Clapham Junction – each providing their own unique charm. My flat off of Northcote Road gave me access to a number of trendy boutiques (Oliver Bonas), mom and pop restaurants (Cafe Tamra, Made in Italy, Opa Opa, Dip & Flip) and some decent bars (Vagabond, The Old Bank, Northcote Records, Draft House) to keep me hopping along any night of the week, plus the transportation links are fantastic. I lived there for 2 and half years and loved it.

Next, my partner Jamie and I moved one neighbourhood over to Wandsworth Town. I dreaded the move initially, despite it being in walking distance to Clapham Junction Station. St. John’s Hill replaced our regular nights dining out and we ventured to new places such as Kao Sarn and Pizza Brixton, with flash cocktails always available late at night from Powder Keg. Even my local yoga studio Sadhana Yoga and Wellbeing was perfectly situated.

So for our most recent move, thanks to our landlord selling in a reflex reaction to Brexit, I shuddered at the thought of going even further afield to Earlsfield. From the perspective of some, I’m in proper suburbia. To others who actually live in suburbia, I’m still very central in London. Welcome to Earls Vegas!

Where is Earlsfield?

Earlsfield is a leafy suburb of Wandsworth Council, London, located between Clapham Junction and Wimbledon. With the greenery and transport links of Wandsworth Common, high street shops of Garratt Lane and appealing proximity to Central London, it provides a suburban feel with all of the urban amenities.

What I sacrificed for trendy Northcote Road I made up with outdoor space. I never would have dreamed it would become such a privilege, especially now as I type this during lockdown from COVID-19 (Coronavirus). I have a big outdoor yard which has been a lifesaver during the precious days of sun, with a garden patch full of rhubarb, thyme, bay and rosemary included – how lucky. Saturday afternoons spent playing outdoor games with a 6-year old and doing odd-jobs like power washing and deck staining have kept me busy whilst not working due to redundancy. Plus, I’m a sucker for a tan.

Backyard Fun

Why is Earlsfield called Earls Vegas?

Unsuspecting to the naked eye, many assume Earlsfield is only for young family units and retirees, yet leafy Earlsfield does have some nightlife. The Wandle, named after the local estuary the River Wandle, is renowned for its vast beer garden, a line-up of cover bands and summer BBQs to the beat of live sports. Graffiti Bar, a gimmicky cocktail bar offers an £80 bar tab when you complete their menu of cocktails (which, obviously we’re in the running for) and is open until 2 am. Then again, the Leather Bottle is known to have one of the best beer gardens in all of Southwest London, enlarged garden games and pastel-painted sheds included.

Cocktails at Graffiti Bar, Earlsfield

Here are 8 reasons to visit Earlsfield:

1. The Great Outdoors

Southwest London has a plethora of outdoor space. In Earlsfield specifically, you can spend time in the vast greenery of Wandsworth Common – whether it be for a run, a game of football (where Jamie’s 6-year old plays in a weekend league) or to have a few drinks with friends.

Daily walks along the pond of Wandsworth Common

I’d also recommend a walk along the River Wandle. While some aspects require you to cut through various residential neighbourhoods, the Wandle passes through the South London Boroughs of Croydon, Sutton, Merton, and Wandsworth to join the River Thames. The river is about 11 miles long.

2. Pubs in Earlsfield

Prior to moving to Earlsfield, we discovered what we like to call the ‘Garratt Lane Pub Crawl’. Starting on Garratt Lane near Southside in Wandsworth, you can easily hop along to about 10 pubs, from the Garratt Tavern at the start to the Leather Bottle to finish.

Our favourites include:

Tir Na Nog – family-run Irish pub with free snacks daily
Grosvenor Arms – amazing pizzas and a good selection of craft drafts
The Earlsfield – try their rack of ribs, you won’t regret it
Halfway House – close to the train station and outdoor seating for people watching
Leather Bottle – amazing beer garden and decent Sunday roast

The Leather Bottle, Earlsfield

3. Brunch in Earlsfield

You can’t do a Saturday in London without a decent brunch. Earlsfield doesn’t fail to deliver either. Despite the sad closure of Bloody Ben’s (a sister restaurant to a favourite of ours on St. John’s Hill), there are plenty of options to keep you full of avocado toast.

Our favourites include:

Hallowed Belly – each week they offer a discount to the local ‘street of the week’

Closed Hallowed Belly, Earlsfield

Bean and Hop – sister cafe to Northcote Road top-pick Cafe Tamra, delicious middle-eastern inspired breakfast, pizza in the evenings and craft beer
Flotsam and Jetsam – all-day breakfast, fresh juices and amazing coffee. This is one to queue up for after a game on the Common.

4. Coffee in Earlsfield

While you have your fair share of big chains (Starbucks, Costa, Gails), it’s the independent guys that give Earlsfield a community feel. Especially during COVID-19, we love supporting them as they open up for take-aways and have turned themselves into mini-grocers.

Our favourites include:

Belle Amie – Offering brunch options too, Belle Amie is somewhere you can enjoy a great bite of their unique Tarte Flambée with a sip of roasted Allpress coffee beans.
Bonsai Espresso Room – Speciality coffee and cakes in a quirky cafe just across from the Common. They’ve mastered the art of no-contact take-away with installed plexiglass.

The outdoor menu at Bonsai Espresso Room on Wandsworth Common

Eclectic Collection – eclectic vibes and great coffee, they’ve stayed open during lockdown by serving the community with eggs, flour and takeaway brunch!

Beautiful Eclectic Collection in Earlsfield, London

5. Craft Beer in SW London

We wouldn’t live in Southwest London if we couldn’t have our craft beer. Luckily there are many breweries within walking distance. We like supporting these guys when we can – even better, we can’t wait until they open again to enjoy their taprooms and have a beer at the picnic tables out front. All do local deliveries or pick-up service.

By the Horns – Try Hopodelic

Enjoying the sunshine at By The Horns Brewery

Bellevue – Try Surf IPA

Supporting local breweries, Belleview Brewery

Wimbledon Brewery – Try Wimbledon Pale

6. Shopping

Fair enough, Earlsfield isn’t a shoppers paradise but there is enough to keep you entertained during a family walk on a Saturday afternoon. First up you have Southside shopping centre at the end of Garratt Lane – hop on the bus or stroll down if you really need a shop at the big Sainsburys, Waitrose, Sports Direct etc. But what gives Earlsfield it’s proper charm are the antique, charity and speciality shops. My favourite is Lark, independent clothing, accessory, and jewellery shop with 6 Southwest London sites.

7. Location

I know, right? At first, I was saying, “oh no, not Earlsfield” and now I’m bragging about the location. It’s not so bad really. It’s a good sandwich to be in the middle of – you’ve got Tooting on one end only a 5-minute bus ride away with delicious curry houses and thriving markets, Northcote Road less than a 30-minute walk away with all my old favourites, Wimbledon Village just one more train stop with all the flash chains and then Wandsworth Town. Balham too is an achievable walk. In fact, I walk everywhere; and when in doubt there’s a bus, and when in doubt again there’s a train. If only the London Santander city bikes (aka Boris Bikes) were this ‘far’ out.

Tooting Broadway Market

8. Community

Yes, of course, the community! We say hi to our neighbours, we collaborate on the Earlsfield Facebook Group (otherwise nicknamed ‘The Chat’ due to the gossipy comments) and of course take great pride in clapping every Thursday evening at 8 pm for our amazing NHS. I love looking over and seeing the rest of the street participate too!

Clapping for our NHS in Earlsfield, London

So that’s that – life in Earls Vegas. I have high hopes that all of the above and those who plan to open survive the upside of this COVID-19 lockdown. And if you do consider residing in this lovely corner of London, just be careful of those pesky foxes. They will have a field day in your garbage, snack at your garden and keep you up at night with their howls (more like grunts).

Welcome to the fabulous Earlsvegas! Graffiti Bar, Earlsfield

5 Reasons to Visit Belfast

Belfast is highly underrated as a city-break destination. It’s not surprising considering the history of trouble that took place over a 30-year period which meant that tourism was previously non-existent. But things have changed, Belfast is on the up and tourism is booming, especially in the summer months. Here are 5 reasons why you must visit Belfast.

Welcome to Belfast

1. Rich history

The Troubles

The period known as the troubles took place between 1968 to 1998. It was a horrible time in Northern Irish history and the wounds are very recent. To put it into perspective, the conflict is so young that I was 15 when things ended under the Good Friday Agreement, making it even more relatable. If you want to truly understand an unbiased perspective take a Belfast Black Cab Tour, run by taxi drivers who were considered a neutral source at the time so could to take journalists across the borders freely.

Belfast Peace Gate

During our 1.5-hour tour, we visited the gates at the peace line which separated the Nationalists and Loyalists – these are still only open from 7 am to 7 pm to keep the peace and are heavily monitored by CCTV. We stopped along the political murals where we had an opportunity to write an inspiring message on the wall and visited remembrance memorials on both sides where we learned in great detail about the horrors that took place. Witnessing fresh flowers at these sites and barbed wire still up around the homes close to the wall made the recency all too real.

Belfast Political Murals

Belfast Peace Wall

Our guide Jake was really knowledgeable and gave a balanced perspective from both sides. He is passionate about moving forward as he lived through the atrocities and his kids even attended a mixed school – something only available apparently for about 1% of the population. According to him, there are still walls in people’s minds and it’s going to take at least one more generation until there will truly be peace. “Fear is a powerful weapon” and “we, unfortunately, live with Brexit every day,” said Jake.

Jake of Black Cab Tours

Titanic

The ‘unsinkable’ was the pride of Belfast. She was built at the Harland and Wolff shipyard where she resided before her maiden voyage in 1912. The two massive yellow cranes, Samson and Goliath of Harland and Wolff shipyard are an iconic part of Belfast’s skyline.

Titanic Belfast museum houses an educational and interactive journey through Belfast’s history, the building of the world’s most iconic ship and exploration into its discovery at the depths of the Atlantic.

Great outdoors

Heading up to the natural phenomenon of Giant’s causeway is a must-do whilst in Northern Ireland. Only approx. over an hour’s direct-drive from Belfast, you can make a day out of it with the many coach tours that take you up north or hire a car. For those Game of Throne fans, there are even tours dedicated to the filming locations. I was slightly disappointed in my research, however, that all tours were large and on buses as I much prefer a small personalized tour but hey, when in Belfast…

We selected Irish Tour Tickets because the entrance fee to Giant’s Causeway and Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge were included, which isn’t always the case for other companies so check ahead. We got picked up from our hotel (Ramada by Wyndham Belfast City – great location in the Cathedral Quarter) at 8:15 am only to sit in front of the tour office until the tour officially left at 9:15 am. With a head of full of Guinness from the night before, we definitely would recommend making your own way to the tour office if you prefer a lie-in.

Giant's Causeway Tour Route

Our guide Gavin and driver Davy, the ultimate duo, made up for it however as two local Belfast lads they provided great commentary throughout the long day. Davy even sang the traditional Irish song The Green Glens of Antrim, local to County Antrim, whilst driving to wish a passenger a happy birthday.

The drive up the Antrim Coast was beautiful, rugged coastline on one side and a blanket of green on the other – it definitely ticks the quintessential Irish scenery box. You could even see Scotland in the distance!

Giant’s Causeway too was mesmerizing – not only for the phenomena of the causeway itself but also for the natural landscape around. Irish folklore has it that the causeway was created by an Irish Giant, who threw chunks of the Antrim Coast into the sea when threatened by a large giant in Scotland. Scientists, however, will argue it was formed from lava. Who would you believe?

Giant's Causeway

Lisa & Hannah at Giant's Causeway

There are two trails to get to the causeway, I recommend to start on the red trail which provides a view from up above whilst the blue trail is at sea-level. For those who aren’t up for the walk, there is also a shuttle bus for £1. If you’re hungry you can grab a snack in the café in the Visitor’s Centre, or settle in at the cosy pub, The Nook, on-site for a pint of Guinness and some Irish stew as we did.

The Nook, Giant's Causeway

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, an old salmon fishing rope bridge, which is now owned by the National Trust is one of the most popular sites in the area. Tourists line up to cross the bridge, only to wait again on the other side to cross back. It makes for an excellent photo opportunity, just don’t look down to the sharp rocks and thunderous ocean below. When walking back to the car park there’s a great view looking back over the bridge connecting the small island of Carrickarede to the mainland. I’ll admit, I was scared and it didn’t help when young boys behind me decided to jump to shake the bridge (which is against the rules!) but I’m still proud of the accomplishment.

Hannah on Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

Our last stop was as Bushmills claimed as the world’s oldest whiskey distillery dating back to 1608. We did not get a tour but I was still happy to pay £10 for 3 drams – Black Bush blend, and 10 & 12-year single malts. The 10 was my favourite.

Bushmills

Whilst the tour was grand and the highlight, of course, was Giant’s Causeway and getting to walk in the great outdoors, you’re much better off renting a car and getting it done without requiring a full day of stops, some of which aren’t necessary.

Food, pubs and live music

Belfast’s social scene is thriving – even more, their food is significantly underrated. There are a few core popular areas for tourists in the small city, the city centre, the student area around Queen’s Quarter, the family-friendly Titanic Quarter and the buzzing Cathedral Quarter. We based ourselves around the Cathedral Quarter which was very central to both the centre of the city as well as popular nightlife spots.

Fave brunch spot:

Established Coffee, located in the Cathedral Quarter, it is hands down pure awesome. On our first afternoon we stopped in for ‘the best toastie I’ve ever had’ according to Hannah and I do concur, only to go for brunch again on Sunday. The quality of the coffee is a given, and I also highly recommend the hash. Be prepared to wait for a spot to open up but well worth it.

Fave Dinner:

Made in Belfast
This funky local chain was absolutely stand out – from service to its seasonal farm-to-table sustainable, ethically sourced menu. I was over the moon with my rump steak while Hannah found love with the lamb.

Top pubs in Cathedral Quarter

Crown Liquor Saloon

Dating back to the 1880s, this pub is an institution of Belfast and has been one of the “mightiest Victorian gin palaces of the city”. Here’s where we had our first Guinness (and Hannah’s first-ever, whhaaat?!) before starting a mini pub crawl of Belfast’s best pubs. Being right in the city centre, expect it to be busy with both locals and tourists with Guinness in hand, but make yourself at home in one of the cosy snugs and admire the elegantly detailed woodwork and stained glass which lends itself to being a Grade A listed building owned by the National Trust.

Crown Liquor Saloon – Bar

Crown Liquor Saloon – Snug

Kelly’s Cellars
200 years old, Kelly’s is one of Belfast’s oldest traditional Irish pubs and is another iconic Belfast boozer. With cute bric-a-brac, from pots to fiddles hanging from the ceiling, it’s an excellent place to hunker down for a Guinness and some traditional Irish stew whilst listening to traditional Irish music.

Kelly’s Cellars, Belfast

Kelly’s Cellars

Maddens Bar
It doesn’t come any more of a quintessential local, with a live Irish band in the corner, money hanging from the ceiling and good honest chats with locals. Hannah was keen for a wine, but I encouraged her this was a place for Guinness.

Maddens Bar, Belfast

On Commercial Court, an Intsta worthy cobblestone street in the heart of the Cathedral Quarter you’ll find the Duke of York. Full of old lamps, clocks and advertising signs from every generation there’s live music both downstairs and upstairs. It feels like a small-town crowd in the heart of the city.

Duke of York, Belfast

Duke of York – Live Music

The Harp Bar, just across from the Duke of York is another lively bar with live music.

The Harp Bar

Claimed as the oldest pub in Belfast, Whites is very cosy with exposed oak beams and a burning fire so it’s a great environment to stay warm from Belfast’s unpredictable weather. Set in a 17th-century building, saddle up at the bar for a Guinness or pop upstairs to the Oyster Rooms for some traditional grub.

Whites Tavern, Belfast

At the National, we witnessed an awesome band, Belfast Busking Band, a local group putting a twist on old school beats, trumpet and all, in this chilled out beer garden. Things started to pick up later in the evening with a younger crowd.

Belfast Busking Band

People

You can’t go wrong with the Irish. They’re friendly, love to have a drink and some craic (good fun). Everywhere we went we found them delightful, welcoming and generally happy to chat about everything – from what life was like at that time to how things are moving forward and the tourism that the city is embracing.

Hanging with locals at Maddens Bar

Affordability

Compared to the prices of Dublin, Belfast was very affordable. Not to mention, being on the £ makes it easy for those coming from mainland UK and it’s such a short flight – less than an hour.

Therefore, you now have 5 strong reasons to hop on over to the amazing city that is Belfast.

Commercial Court, Belfast

Get In The Know, Positano

I’ve never met a single person who would say no to a trip to Italy’s Amalfi Coast. In fact, for many, it’s the ultimate wedding or honeymoon destination – also now popular with backpackers, and rightfully so. Situated to the east of Naples, the Amalfi Coast is a 50-kilometer stretch that runs along the edge of Italy’s Sorrentine Peninsula.

Amalfi Coastline

Jamie had gifted us a flight to Naples as my Christmas present. To set things straight, he became keenly more interested in a trip to Naples following a boxset binge of the Sopranos. But I’m not complaining. It was the perfect opportunity for me to introduce us to the Amalfi Coast for the first time and so it was a win-win.

Lisa Vecchio, Positano

Jamie Synan, Positano

While only a short trip, 3 nights and 4.5 days, we prioritized the cliffs of Positano and a food tour in Sorrento, then a quick stop to the ruins in Pompeii and a traditional Napolese pizza at the famous L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele in downtown Naples on our way home. If we had more time, I would have loved to spend it in Amalfi, Ravello, and the islands of Ischia and Capri – but there’s always a next time. So, let me tell you about Positano…

Positano from above

Getting to Positano is half the fun. If you’re in no rush, I highly recommend taking an open-air ferry, just make sure you check the schedules in advance. The highlight of my trip was taking the ferry from Salerno to Positano, sun beaming on our faces as we passed the tiny cliffside towns from the sea. It appeared as if the clouds could touch the tips of the churches, we saw old stone fortresses built into rocks and antiquated houses set amongst vineyards. It was all so peaceful, the sound of waves and the sun overhead made me feel lucky to finally be in the much-in-demand Amalfi Coast.

Ferry Salerno to Positano

After arriving in Positano by ferry we were greeted by a porter who offered to take our luggage to our hotel. “No!” We sneered, we’ll manage fine. Oh, how naive we were. Has anyone told you about the stairs?!

Climbing the steps of Positano

With luggage in tow, we schlepped it up further and further, hoping the next set of steps would be the end, when in fact it was still only the beginning. Stopping to catch our breaths, we received words of encouragement from those passing by, they’d done this already and didn’t envy us. But it was worth it, to stop and look out at the blue ocean and beautifully weathered Italian houses, colorful B&Bs and the rugged mountainous setting around us.

Classic Alfa Romeo, Positano

View looking down at Positano

We quickly discovered that the multilayers of Positano are beautiful looking up, and just as stunning looking down at the town and the sea below. It’s charming in its own right, it is the Italian med after all. But it’s not for those unfit or very accessible, the stairs definitely make it even more memorable. As do the hordes of tourists and day-trippers from Sorrento.

Vespa cliffside in Positano

For a day and a half, we ate fresh seafood like kings, drank our fair share of local Calabrian wine and explored the gelaterias, art galleries, souvenir shops, and restaurants, taking a new set of stairs each time to uncover different places. The weather gods weren’t in our favor though, so there was no sun bedding to be had. However, an afternoon sipping 10 Euro Spritz’s (trust me, that’s a steal) and people watching at seafront Blu Bar was the perfect way to spend it.

Spritz o’Clock at Blu Bar, Positano

Cocktails at Blu Bar, Positano

Blu Bar, Positano

For sunset, we made our way cliffside to Franco’s Bar, an Instagrammer’s dream, with lemon trees set against deep blues and limoncello yellow decor, upmarket cocktails and chilled out beats. You pay for the view and the price to be seen in this crowd, but hey, it’s worth 20 Euro for at least one drink for the sunset alone.

Franco’s Bar, Positano

Another great spot is tucked around the corner from the main beach, a short walk brings you to Hotel Pupetto, with ocean views away from the crowds and a quieter and smaller beach to spend the afternoon.

Hotel Pupetto, Positano

Where to eat in Positano

Chez Black was a top favorite. Reasonably priced for being beachfront, they also honored my reservation and gave us an ocean facing table. Their signature dish is the sea urchin, but we came for the vongole. Simple al dente pasta and the sweetest clams I’ve ever had. We were impressed by their wine list as well as their 8 Euro cocktails. Jamie was most excited with their wall of fame, it appeared to be Denzel Washington’s favorite restaurant, amongst other celebrities.

Famous Chez Black, Positano

Dinner at Chez Black, Positano

Even better, the staff were excellent too. They recommended Fly Bar for a drink post dinner, built into the cliff with seaside views, jazz, and a banging 20 Euro coffee negroni. Situated above Music on the Rocks, which also comes highly recommended by a friend for a big night out as it’s the only club in town. They own these venues too, hence the recommendation.

La Tagliata was the one I was looking forward to the most. A family restaurant set in the town of Montepertuso high above Positano, they’ll arrange a private transfer for free – the views are outstanding as you wind up and up the mountainside, it’s a bit nerve-wracking but fun. Or you can go physical and take the thousands of steps up and work hard for your dinner. Served family style, there’s no menu and you get what’s grown from the garden with their own brand of wine all for 45 Euros, cash only. You are treated like one of the family, even visiting mama’s kitchen to snap photos with the staff.

Family pics at La Tagliata

We started with antipasta of Serrano ham, local cheese and pickled veg, arancini, and eggplant parmigiana. Wow, that’s a lot to start! This was followed by 4 kinds of pasta: ravioli, gnocchi, ricotta cheese cannelloni and zucchini over cortege – a pasta we’ve never had before. Take your time because as soon as your plate is empty, out comes the next course. It was a mixed grill of chicken, beef, pork, rabbit, lamb with fresh skin-on fries and salad, but this changes all the time. Finally, for dessert, we were served fresh fruit, a variety of cakes and limoncello. Stuffed.

The multiple courses upon courses were impressive, as was the warmness of the family such as Renato, the self-proclaimed black sheep of the family and Letizia who waited on us. But I just wasn’t that overly keen on the meal itself. Good, but not great. If you come here, it’s for the experience and I would still recommend it for that alone.

La Cambusa is another one that seems like it’s made for tourists as it’s right on the seafront, but the quality of the fresh seafood is excellent. The view from upstairs is fantastic, and we were blown away with our seafood scampi and lobster linguini. Mama mia it was good!

Scampi at La Cambusa, Positano

Lobster at La Cambusa, Positano

Highly recommended restaurants in Positano (that we didn’t try)

Negroni, olives and espresso

Da Vicenzo – If I had time for one more this is where I would have gone but we couldn’t get in without a reservation. A lively family-run restaurant with an emphasis on fresh fish, about halfway up the steep steps, reserve for an outside table with ocean views.

Ristorante da Bruno – Cliffside pavement tables overlooking the town, known for their quality of produce.

Casa e Bottega – For a light, healthy meal for breakfast or lunch (from 12); don’t take reservations.

Next 2 – Very trendy and glamorous wine bar, but traditional in its roots. It’s expensive but we heard good things from Canadians we met that it was worth it for a ‘special’ experience.

Ristorante Max – Where locals go for pizza and super fresh seafood, also part of an art gallery. The stuffed zucchini (courgette) flowers come recommended

Collina Bakery – The only takeaway coffee in town, also baked goods, desserts, pizza, and gelato.

Gelato in Positano

How to get to Positano from Naples Airport

As I mentioned above, getting to Positano is half the fun.

By car is by far the quickest (if not in tourist season when the roads can be backed up) and most efficient, if you can handle the tight turns, drops and narrow passes on the windy roads. But they say the amazing views of the ocean below are worth it. Private hire transfers go from 60-100 Euro or you can book the Positano Shuttle in advance for 28 per person each way.

Alternatively, the bus from the airport makes two stops, Naples Central Station (15 minutes) or the Port (Molo) (30 minutes).

If getting off at Naples Central, you can then take a train to Salerno (40 mins) and then catch the Travel Mar Ferry to Positano. This is what we did because it was our only sunny day and we wanted to maximize the views from the sea. We didn’t regret it one bit! The train hugs Mt Vesuvius nearly the whole way, plus the cliffside towns from the ferry are breathtaking. Just make sure you check the ferry times. There are also many restaurants outside the port in Salerno to grab lunch. Keep your eyes peeled for the old leathered guy with the sunburned bald head and splitting Speedo, he’s friendly!

It’s also recommended to hire a boat to visit these smaller towns, as no boating license is required, and Salerno has some pretty reasonably priced rentals compared to the more touristy towns, so a local colleague tells me.

If taking the airport bus to the port, you can take the Alilauro Ferry to Sorrento (40 minutes). There are also plenty of hotels and restaurants near the waterfront in Naples if you need to kill time. Once in Sorrento, you can catch another ferry to Positano, or the local Sita bus. Note, you can also catch the train direct from Naples to Sorrento – it is slow, will be packed and you will likely stand for about an hour and it is riddled with pickpocketers – I witnessed this myself. The ferry is much more enjoyable.

Overall, a lovely time in Positano. I just can’t wait to go back when the sun is out!

Hiking the Cinque Terre with My Mom

Cinque Terre, the five lands situated on the Italian Riviera between Genoa and Pisa, is one of those really special places that words can’t describe. It truly is charming, rugged Italy. The gorgeous scenery is made of a stunning coastline dropping down to the Mediterranean, packed with pastel coastal villages and hiking trails between terraced vineyards, lemon trees and olive groves.

Hiking to Corniglia I found myself there for the first time in 2003, a backpacker in the sleepy town of Riomaggiore, my favourite of the five. We arrived and only then inquired about guest lodging and ended up in a tiny apartment fitted out with the basics. Most nights we bought pasta and local wine from the Co-Op (the only grocery in town) and it was enough to satisfy, sitting around talking about our travels in a charming Italian flat at night, after hiking between all five towns during the day.

Riomaggiore main street

I vividly remember meeting Aussie backpackers in their mid-twenties. They were old and brave in my eyes of just 19. I couldn’t believe they threw their cares of getting a big kid job out the window; that could wait. The world comes first.

So, when my Mom told me the one place she wanted to go in Europe whilst visiting me in the UK this past May was Cinque Terre, I couldn’t say no.

The thing was, I was nervous. In the twelve years since I was last there in 2006 for my second time, I’d heard rumours about how much had changed. Cinque Terre is no longer the quiet backpacker, hidden ‘old’ Italy that I experienced in my youth, it’s now on the tourist trail. It’s in magazines, guidebooks and caters to cruise ships. I was excited to relive my former footsteps but anxious that I may discover something I didn’t recognize.

In order to make Mom’s dream come true, we had a 4:30 am wake up to get to London Gatwick. 7 hours later we arrived in Riomaggiore from La Spezia, but it only took one look at the town to know all the travel was already worth it. I was back again in this amazing other world so different from home or anywhere else I’ve been, and a place that was one of my favourite backpacker spots as a teenager.

Vernazza

I was excited to show Mom all of the five towns, and how different they can be from each other. I could point out what’s changed and what new restaurants had arrived on the scene, places I used to sunbathe and sip wine along the coast. I was excited to get her into her sneakers so we could begin the famed hike, it’s so magical trekking from town-to-town and I wanted her to experience what I had before.

I even loved practising my (poor) Italian. “I wish I could speak French,” Mom said. “You mean as good as I speak Italian?” “Haha, something like that.” I think she was saying I could be better despite four years under my belt in High School.

The thing was, things had changed. A devastating rock slide had damaged the most famous part of the hiking trail, Via dell’Amore, which hugs the rocky coastline from Riomaggiore to Manarola. It used to be the most dramatic and breath-taking bit too. Also, because of the mass tourism, you now need to buy a hiking pass to use the trails. There are free trails, of course, but I was dead set on showing Mom the Cinque Terre I knew as a backpacker.

Nowadays there’s no general store that’s not stuffed with souvenirs, or local wine without a Cinque Terre label slapped on to it to promote tourism. Being more or less cash only, the ATMs fail regularly and the demographic has gotten older. It’s no longer a secret backpacker haven.

That was the most obvious thing, there were people everywhere. And I mean everywhere! Chinese tour groups, hiking enthusiasts, backpackers and day-trippers coming off of cruise ships in La Spezia. Luckily, we still had some pretty fantastic meals, enjoyed the picturesque scenery, and had some awesome mother-daughter bonding time too. Going in the offseason of May, I just can’t imagine things at full swing during summer, likely not my cup of tea at all.

Riomaggiore

Of the three times I’ve been to the Cinque Terre, I’ve always stayed in Riomaggiore. It holds a special place in my heart.

Lisa Vecchio in Riomaggiore

We stayed in an amazing refurbished apartment right in the middle of the marina, steps away from where I sunbathed on the rocks in my youth. A step up from the old granny flat on the main street, we were in the heart of one of the most scenic areas of town. With our window open at night, we woke up to the sound of Italian fisherman getting their boats out in the early am and to the sea lapping at the shore.

Riomaggiore Marina

Lydia, from our accommodation Allo Scalo dei Mille, greeted us from the train station to show us our immaculate apartment. She was super helpful also in recommending restaurants and giving us background on the locals i.e. her cousin is the priest at the only church in town which made Mom happy when we attended on Sunday. Denise, the owner of our flat was American, born to a Cinque Terre resident and came back after growing up in the States to renovate the building into apartments for rent. Smart lady.

Every morning we had a coffee on the main street at Hotel La Zorza, a simple eatery below a budget hotel but an easy place to grab a pastry and a cuppa before setting off for the day. There are so many new restaurants and cafes on the high street, finding a decent coffee or meal wasn’t always a guarantee.

My favourite secret find thanks to Lydia was off of a small side street. Osteria Maite could have had better service but sitting out in their courtyard amongst the twinkling fairy lights at night with a wine and fresh pasta was all we could have asked for. I even tried the walnut sauce, which was to die for, a classic of the local Ligurian cuisine.

The best views in town were at cliffside A Piè de Mà. We reserved a table that overlooked the Med, the perfect place for sunset. They do good cheese boards and have an extensive wine cellar. Unfortunately, they are cash only and have no table service, meaning a very long and unnecessary queue to the bar.

Sunset at A Piè de Mà

We also had a fantastic meal at Enoteca Dau Cila, one of the two restaurants right in the marina across from our apartment. I was sceptical that it would be overpriced and poor quality for the location but the scampi (shrimps) were huge and fat, and the branzino (sea bass) was simple and light. We were even given a complimentary Lemoncello with our bill and left smiling from the great staff, wanting to come back again if we had more time.

Branazino at Enoteca Dau Cila

Manarola

Anybody who appreciates a good meal will tell you that Trattoria Dal Billy (Billy’s) in Manarola is the place to be. It’s well worth the climb up through the smallest of the five towns to get to this cheap and friendly eatery serving simple local dishes. Definitely reserve in advance as they have two seating’s, 7 and 9 pm, and try the specials of both land and sea.

It was also recommended to visit Valastro wineries. A shuttle bus from Manarola station will take you up the mountain into the neighbouring town of Valastro (not one of the five). Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time to make a booking and try it.

Corniglia

I’d recommend staying in Corniglia if you wanted somewhere less touristy and more serene. It’s definitely a town I’d like to stay in one day. Smack in the middle of the five, if you’re looking to do the famed hike, this is the closest starting point from Riomaggiore currently due to the path being closed up to this point. For those that don’t know, Corniglia is also famous for its 365 steps, one for each day of the year, up from the train station into the town.

Mom and I took the train to Corniglia to begin our hike on our second day. The ocean views from the steps are fantastic, as is getting a small glimpse of the adorable houses that line the cliffs sandwiched between the vineyards.

Vineyard in Corniglia, Cinque Terre

After getting to the top of stairs and wandering through town Mom stopped me and said, “how much longer do we have left?” That made me laugh, as we hadn’t even started onto the hiking trail yet. “3 more hours to go Mom!”

Within a few moments of entering the trail, I could tell she understood why this hike is so special. The smell of honeysuckle and the Mediterranean coming into view around tight corners was only the beginning. The best part was, she didn’t take me seriously when I said it was a hike. She thought I meant a light walk. When we finally got to the next town of Vernazza it was like finding gold at the end of a rainbow, a sight so sweet we had worked ourselves up for a well-deserved lunch and Spritz.

Hiking To Vernazza

Vernazza

Hiking into Vernazza, Italy

This was Mom’s favourite town. As you come from Corniglia, you weave into town down steep side streets before hitting its main central artery. Vernazza also has a lovely port lined with restaurants and it’s a great place for lunch, no matter how you find your way there.

Vernazza marina, Cinque Terre

The most famous place with the best views is Ristorante Belforte. Situated within the castle, this cliffside restaurant is stand out. You can’t book, but it’s well worth the wait to dine on the terrace next to the Med in this medieval setting with a stunning backdrop. Even better, they are known for their seafood and their scampi salad was out of this world. Overflowing with so much fresh seafood, I was definitely jealous of Mom’s dish despite my Lingurian squid ink pasta with fresh shellfish being pretty darn good too.

The view at Restaurante Belforte, Vernazza

Waitor at Restaurante Belforte, Vernazza

Scampi salad at Restaurante Belforte, Vernazza

After lunch, we relaxed on the rocks in the harbour amongst the locals and tourists, before grabbing a few Spritzes at Ananasso Bar. While I’m a sucker for an Aperol, Mom was blown away by her Lemoncello Spritz. So much that we stayed for well more than one to enjoy the sun and people watching.

Sprtiz's at Ananasso Bar, Vernazza

The colour of Vernazza, Italy

We began the second half of our hike on day 2 from Vernazza, heading to the last town (or first depending on which way you start) of Monterosso. This trail was much busier, and with the amount of ‘traffic’ of tourists, there were definitely a few ‘hug your neighbour moments’ when the path was so narrow it was only 1 to 3 feet wide.

Local selling Lemoncello in Monterosso, Cinque Terre, Italy

After a steep climb, we made our way down again and were relieved to spot a local selling handmade Lemoncello straight from his lemon trees in a small shack next to the trail. It was an awesome break to just stop and pause, have a chat with the friendly man and happily hand over some cash to support his likely well-lubricated business. As we continued on we stepped over small waterfalls and caught glimpses of Vernazza in our past. Another awesome hike under our belts.

Monterosso

Monterosso, Italy beach

Monterosso is the biggest of the five. In fact, it was a lot larger than I remember, it even has two beaches where the others really have none. Many people stay in Monterosso as it has the only 4-star hotel amongst the group, and many other hotel-like lodgings compared to the small apartments you rent in the other towns. Being bigger also meant that it had more shops with a good variety and some better-quality souvenirs, like Fabbrica D’Arte where we both bought a special memento. But it really was just a gelato that we wanted after a long day of hiking, of course. And we left satisfied.

Gelato in Monterosso, Italy

We only had 2.5 days all up to explore all five towns and obviously would have welcomed one more day. But for my Mom, it was just enough and exactly what she’s always imagined it would be. It’s like nowhere else, rustic Italy, with vineyards taking over the hills, steep climbs through narrow back streets, and old women sticking their head out of the window to hang their laundry and just watch the world go by.

Monterosso

Mom said the locals must be like goats to be able to trek these hills but also, she was really grateful. For some, being in your 60s would limit your ability to achieve such a great accomplishment of hiking to each town. If I’m on honest, I don’t know how I did the whole five in one go in my past, being 19 might have helped. But I also feel so lucky that we were able to do it this time around together as mother and daughter.

Lisa Vecchio & JoAnn Rose in Cinque Terre, Italy

Outstanding in the Field, Burgundy, France

Outstanding in the field is a foodie’s dream. Turning the notion of dining out on its head, instead of bringing the farm to a restaurant’s table, they bring the restaurant to the field. Their mission is to “re-connect diners to the land and the origins of their food, and to honor the local farmers and food artisans who cultivate it.”

Sounds enticing, doesn’t it?

Outstanding in the Field, Burgundy, France

Starting out in 1999 in California by artist and chef Jim Denevan, Outstanding in the Field was one of the early pioneers to try a such a crazy idea before it was cool for pops ups and food trucks to roam the country. They’re now in their 14^th year with 87 events alone this season and have held events in all 50 states as well as 14 countries. My friend Emily has been waiting years for them to come to Europe and I was lucky enough to join them for their first event in Burgundy, France.

Welcome to Outstanding in the Field

We were dropped off in the middle of the vines of Domaine Lebreuil where we were greeted by General Manager Eden before joining the other 80 guests for canapés and generous pours of third-generation winemaker Jean-Baptiste Lebreuil’s selection. I was keenly interested in finding out where everyone was from, there were a few French and English accents I could hear, but the event was overpowered by faithful advocates who traveled all the way over to Europe from the US. That’s some effort!

Canapes
House-made marbled ham
Salmon gravlax with Fallot mustard
Vegetable tart with a mousse of Fromagerie Delin Delice de Pommard
Beetroot salad with Emmanuelle Bailard Farm back currants and crunchy peanuts
2013 Domaine Lebreuil “Dessus des Gollardes” Blanc
2013 Domaine Lebreuil “Aux Grands Liards” Rouge

Canapes at Outstanding in the field

After Eden shared the history of the program and why we were all standing in the middle of nowhere, 41-year-old Jean-Baptiste followed up with a humble and humorous welcome. “I am so happy we are all here in the earth of Burgundy,” he shared. He was clearly very excited to meet everyone and host his first of this kind, and “for the weather since harvest is next week!” It was a hot day for sure.

Jean-Baptiste Lebreuil

We walked straight through the Grand Cru vines to find a long table set in the middle of the vineyard. You were even welcomed to bring your own plate, but for those of us who hadn’t, we picked through the colorful stack before taking a seat to start our meal prepared by Michelin starred chef David Le Comte of Kook’In.

Domaine Lebreuil

Dinner
Club sandwich with tomato, hard-boiled egg, cocktail sauce, parmesan, bacon & Truites De L’ube GAEC trout

Club Sandwich

Bourguignon perch with espelette butter with grilled Eric Roy Farm seasonal vegetables
2015 Domaine Lebreuil Premiere Cru “Aux Clous” Blanc

Ligny Farm poultry prepared in the style of Gaston Gerard with roasted Farmer Bruno Grenailles potatoes
2015 Domaine Lebreuil Premiere Cru “Aux Clous” Rouge

Petite Louisette Charolais beef grilled in the style of Bourguignone with ratatouille
2014 Domaine Lebreuil “Les Boutieres” Rouge

Beef with ratatouille

Assortment of Burgundian cheeses with pain d’epices: Brillat Savarin, Epoisses, Comte, Mulot & Petit Jean
Cheesecake with Emmanuelle Baillard Farm black currents

The wine pours were generous and Jean-Baptiste even brought out a magnum to share with his guests. He truly was a pleasure to meet and speak to.

Lisa & Jean-Baptiste

So what did I think? If I’m honest, I was disappointed with the food. It could have been the fact that it was nearly 90F degrees and therefore the fish was overcooked, the chicken undercooked, and steak so fatty I couldn’t even get it down.

But what I will praise is our friendly and fun waiter Percy; Jean-Baptiste and his wines; the carrots and vegetables which accompanied the fish were out of this world; and the cheese, OMG!!! Plus that fact that I was lucky to be in a beautiful vineyard in the middle of Cote de Beaune, Burgandy.

Lisa Vecchio Burgundy France

Lastly, the event was poorly organized from a logistics perspective (except for the excellent porter-loo facilities). When the meal ended at around 10 pm most guests made their way to an after party at Jean-Baptiste’s chateaux. We would have loved to join but weren’t quite sure if were invited, and therefore, stood in the pitch black dark in the field scrambling to figure out how to get the one taxi in town to come get us in the middle of a vineyard, literally. Finally one did, for the price of 30 Euro to go 3 kilometers down the road.

I would consider going again because who doesn’t love drinking copious amounts of wine in a beautiful setting while making new friends and tasting some fantastic local grub. But for the steep cost of $250 USD, I’d give it a proper consideration before forking over the cash again. Thanks Outstanding in the Field for a fun dining experience!

5 Things I learned on Planet Iceland

Not-coincidentally timed with it being the hottest destination aside from Cuba (figuratively certainly not temperature-wise), this past New Year’s I treated myself to my all-time bucket list destination, Iceland. Deemed as such from that first layover in 2003 when I bought Renee an overpriced shot glass and could afford nothing else. Tourism is on the rise which made it an interesting time as ever to explore the land of ice and sea and to put myself into deep debt.

One thing I hadn’t done was mentally prepare for the lack of light, extreme cold, shortage of vegetables or the draining expense. My biggest dilemma of all while packing was whether I bring snow boots or hiking boots; and I had no regrets of leaving anything luxury behind and bringing both!

In our 5 days exploring trendy downtown Reykjavik, the famed natural beauty of the Golden Circle and the Black Sand Beach of coastal Vik, there were a few things I was surprised to learn along the way.

Downtown Reykjavik

1. Weather
They say weather in Iceland is unpredictable, snowing one minute and dry hours later. Yes, it is Iceland after all but I’ve never before experienced the fury of mother nature as I did at her best there. A snowstorm of fluffy snowflakes on our first day made it feel like Christmas, contrasted against heavy rain and hail with wind so strong an umbrella was useless on our second.

Driving back from Vik, the steering wheel would shake as heavy snow was blown across the arctic tundra onto the road, so fast and thick you couldn’t see in front without searching for the yellow marker on the side of the road. On that day it was so fierce I could barely open the car door to take a quick snap of Skogafoss waterfall but it was worth it!

Skogafoss

Slippery, black, and constant, there is no shortage of ice and Iceland is well named for its surplus of frozen water in the winter months. Traveling to the arctic on budget-airline easyJet, I was frustrated my flight was delayed only to have learned by a friend who had already landed, the wind at Keflavik Airport was so strong she sat on the tarmac for 2-hours because it was too windy to bring the exit stairs to the plane door.

If heading to Iceland in the winter you will need a hooded lined jacket, snow and/or hiking boots, thermal layers, waterproof gloves and a good hat to keep the heat in. The lowest it got was -6C (21F) but the windchill was so unbearable at times I don’t want to dream of knowing what it actually was.

2 . Self-drive is the way to go
On the one side renting a car allows you the flexibility to choose your own adventure whilst maximizing the few hours of daylight you have. On the flipside, when two Australian’s volunteer to drive then only realize once it’s too late that neither has driven on the other side of the road or in the snow, we might either truly have a proper road trip or a serious problem.

Trying something different, we opted to try Carrenters, an Airbnb-style car rental company where locals rent out their cars to tourists, and insurance and such is legit. In fact, we found the locals so nice and accommodating it came as a bit of surprise especially when we were in the wrong. Our car rental was actually about a 15-minute drive outside of the city, but our rental gladly dropped it off and picked it up from the city center to make things easier for us clueless tourists.

The road signs aren’t the best so I advise using a GPS to read out the few turns in advance. As the roads can be very icy, even on popular routes of the Golden Circle or down the south coast to Vik, utilize daylight hours to the best of your ability, drive slow and be prepared for volatile weather.

In a place where the primary attraction is the natural beauty, it honestly looks as if you are on another planet, self-drive gives you the opportunity to go slow through the landscape as it so drastically changes at each turn; to pull over to pet wild Icelandic horses, or to arrive into your next destination witnessing majestic sunsets and sunrises.

Wind storm during sunrise on the Black Sand Beach, Vik

It can be eery when setting off, being in the middle of nowhere in deep fog with few cars around, snow tornados dancing on the landscape, driving further into what feels like a white nowhereland, but it also means you can time your visits to the popular attractions when the masses of tour buses are elsewhere and you can chase the Northern Lights night after night.

Big applause and thank you to Jake who put in the tiring hours, kept us safe during crazy weather, and made it awesome!

3. The great outdoors
It goes without saying that seeing the Northern Lights was my biggest goal for this trip and I’m sad to share that I never saw them, yet! The wild winter weather meant that most evenings the skies were cloudy, the opposite requirement for the dancing light spectacle.

The closest we got however was on a clear night in Vik. After a great meal and awesome service at Suður-Vík, we hiked up past the town’s cute little church on the top of the hill, albeit a bit buzzed with a local beer in hand, and stared into the night sky. The North Star shined so bright I finally got why it was such a big deal. A new discovery came as we stumbled upon the church’s cemetery. Illuminated crosses lit up the graveyard, a huge surprise but a totally cool experience, honoring Christmas tradition.

Vik town church

Illuminated crosses at Vik cemetery

Not far from Vik is the magnificent, and ever melting Sólheimajökull glacier (a part of the Mýrdalsjökull ice cap). Icepicks and crampons were required for our 3-hour glacier hike with Arcanum Glacier Tours led by chatty Maya. More fascinating than the details of the glacier and the rate at which it’s melting was the fact that neighboring volcano Katla could blow this century and the emergency back up plans are so outdated that the farmhouse a few miles down the road could never cater for the 3,000ish tourists who climb the glacier each day.

Start to Sólheimajökull glacier hike

The Golden Circle is a must drive for any visitor to do once. While it’s not a circle, it certainly is a loop of approx. 237k, typically starting at Þingvellir National Park where the North American & Eurasian tectonic plates are split apart creating deep fissures in the ground. Many go scuba diving or snorkeling in the fissure called Silfa which is full of freezing glacier water but that surely didn’t sound too appealing to me.

The next stop is Geysir in Haukadalur, where geothermal pools bubble and geysers erupt at the surprise of the masses of tourists who stand around to witness. The colors alone are spectacular in addition to the water shooting up to 100 feet from Strokkur every 15 minutes or so.

Geothermal pool Geysir

Gulfoss waterfalls puts Niagara to shame! Very icy were the paths to get across both the upper and lower viewpoints to watch the Hvítá river viciously flow over various ravines and into the deep earth below.

Gullfoss waterfall

Like something out of a movie, seeing the ice form lines in Kerið Crater Lake was beautiful and I only could imagine how piercing blue the water must be when not frozen. Despite an entry fee to maintain the grounds, it was totally worth walking the perimeter as the sunset over the neighboring mountains.

Kerið volcanic crater lake

4. Food
There is a big divide between great food in Iceland, and things you don’t want to write home about. Then again, your budget alone may determine if you will eat well at all. In addition, there was strong evidence of a lack of green vegetables, compensated by really good potatoes with every meal, and unluckily for us the local fisherman were on strike.

In Reykjavik, new restaurants are popping up all over town to cater for the surplus of tourists thanks to Icelandair’s clever marketing and free layovers between the US and Europe. Of those we tried, I recommend:

Messin: On our first night the 3 of us shared the traditional Icelandic dish of fish stew. In our unexpected favor, cod was the only fish on offer due to the strike and bad weather. One giant pan was served with mashed fish, garlic, white wine and cream, dressed with potatoes (as is everything), lime and cherry tomatoes accompanied with customary sweet local rye bread. A very moreish meal indeed.

Ostabudin: This delicatessen and restaurant is one of the most popular in town and for good reason, the menu is limited but standout. We shared an over generous cheese board before devouring the arctic char and salted cod, ‘must-haves’ if you are in Iceland.

Baejarins Beztu Pylsur: I would have never imagined I would stand in a line for 45 minutes for a hot dog but let me tell you IT WAS WORTH IT! There’s a reason why The Guardian named it the best hot dog stand in Europe. Go with ‘the works’ and let them pile on all the toppings including ketchup, sweet mustard, fried onion, raw onion and remolaði, a mayonnaise-based sauce with sweet relish aka the special sauce. The combo of all of the above made me wish I got two!

Baejarins Beztu Pylsur

There are other traditional Icelandic dishes to try like smoked trout (the smokiest I’ve ever tried anywhere), rye bread ice cream and Jake took one for the team and tried fermented shark followed by a shot of local liquor Brennin to remove the taste. “Tastes like feet and smells like rubbing alcohol,” he said. Your breath after is apparently the worst, and I was even still going to give it a shot until I saw Rob gag. If interested, touristy Café Loki across from Iceland’s largest church Hallgrímskirkja is your spot.

Iceland’s largest church Hallgrímskirkja

Note that most cafes open late since it’s dark until about 11 am. That can make it a bit difficult to find a cafe for a good coffee or breakfast if heading off in the early am.

5. Drink
For one, I never expected Iceland to have such fantastic local brews. Even more surprising is the locals don’t know much about them. There were a lot of Christmas beers on tap, with a tradition for most local breweries to change them up each year. That meant that we were often asked which Christmas brew we wanted to try, but no one could actually explain how it tastes other than “Christmas”.

Common brews are Viking and Gull but our favorites were the numbered microbrews from Borg such as Leifur Nordic Saison NR. 32 and Garún Icelandic Stout NR.19 as well as a variety from Einstock. Happy hour does exist at most bars so take advantage of it and save yourself the ISK.

The overall lesson is, they like their beer and have some good ones, just don’t ask them what it tastes like or if you can have a try otherwise they will be dumbfounded.

If you like wine expect it to be overpriced and underrated, totally not worth it. For a great whisky selection, you could spend all day at relaxed rock bar Dillon on the main street Laugavegur.

And don’t be that tourist and buy bottled water. The local water is as fresh as it comes, although because of the sulfur the smell may have you guessing otherwise.

There were tons more interesting and fascinating elements to this trip but that simply means I’ll just have to return once my wallet replenishes. In the meantime, here are a few more snaps to enjoy:

Taken from the Black Sand Beach, Vik

Wedding photo NYE bonfire Reykjavik

Blue lagoon, Iceland

The whitewashed town of Vik from the Black Sand Beach

Sólheimajökull glacier

My Norway in a Nutshell Itinerary

Welcome to the land of a million waterfalls, trolls, and Vikings. Where every corner you turn the dramatic landscape changes within the blink of an eye. Where seafood is fresh and abundant and your pocket is constantly empty from the astronomical cost of EVERYTHING.

Huge troll at Voss train station, Norway

Clever Norway tourism coupled the best bits of the region’s most popular sites and made hopping around to them very easy through their Norway in a Nutshell itineraries. Simple and effective, anyone, all ages can easily book online and craft an itinerary through breathtaking landscapes and (no longer) hidden secret places either on their own or as part of a guided group.

Jamie and I decided however that we would go rogue and take the best of Norway in a Nutshell and craft our own agenda while booking independently. We worked out that albeit slightly more expensive since the box-set tours book the cheapest train times, which aren’t always convenient, this gave us more flexibility to stay where we wanted on our own clock.

Even better, budget airline Norwegian Air run flights daily from London Gatwick. Flights can be reasonably priced and include free Wi-Fi on board.

Lisa & Jaime’s Norway in a Nutshell itinerary:

Day 1: Bergen

Bryggen, Bergen

Known to be the cutest and most picturesque in the country, I wish I had more than just one day to explore this coastal city. Apparently it’s also the happiest place in the country too. We rented an Air BnB from an attractive local, centrally located between the train station and the historic area of Bryygen.

Despite a down pouring of rain all afternoon, our efforts to explore were not tainted. I tried my first (of many) classic fish soups over lunch at Café Opera, a casual bar and restaurant situated in the heart of the city across from the Opera. In fact, I didn’t realize at the time how affordable the food truly was there. It was where I first learned how large portions in Norway can be, evidenced by Jaime’s huge salad, so you could argue the astronomical costs are value for money.

The wooden boardwalk streets and pointed houses of historic Bryggen are so cute they definitely visually ticked the box of classic Norway in my mind. The entire city, and country for that matter, plays the part and is dressed for the outdoors and the brisk summer cold. Yes, you read that right, 50 F degrees in August. It reminded Jaime of a mini-Seattle, each shop selling lightweight puffers, wool, reindeer slippers and of course, the iconic country mascot – the troll.

Wooden beams of historic Bryggen

Souvenirs and wolf hats in Bergen

Norwegian trolls on display at a market in Bergen

Fish soup at Cafe Opera, Bergen

Jaime & Lisa in the rain; Bryggen, Bergen

To escape the rain we stopped in at Una, a modern bar serving a range of over 20 craft beers on tap plus a wide selection in bottles. It was there we met Skip, a 70-ish-year-old American from Virginia who had been traveling around Europe solo for the last five months. Looking like a hippie version of Santa Claus, we couldn’t help but be friendly and share a beer to hear about his wild stories of a 3-week rage in Greece; learn that Bergen is considered the Nashville of heavy metal deemed as such by Crazy Dennis who runs the nearby music venue The Garage, and politely excused ourselves after finishing up with the full history of his ex-wife and funeral home business.

The night ended walking through the quiet backstreets of the hillside above the city, then on to dinner in the heart of the fish market. King crab claws, lobster, mussels, and prawns at Fish Me. Some things in life are worth the splurge in cash.

Shark at Fish Me; Fish Market Bergen, Norway

King Crab! Fish Me, Begen Fish Market

King crab and Mussels at Fish Me, Bergen

Expensive king crab, Bergen Fish Market

Day 2: Voss

The view over Vangsvatnet, Voss

Known as the adventure capital of Norway and home to Extreme Sports Week, this was one stop on the Norway in a Nutshell’s standard itinerary we changed to accommodate a full day of adrenaline pumping fun. So we decided to go paragliding! If you aren’t familiar with the concept, we basically ran down a hill then off the side of the mountain. Then we safely floated over the amazing scenery of Vangsvatnet Lake, mountains and the small town, thanks to the large glider attached to my tandem pilot’s back.

Pargaliding over Voss, Norway

It was totally awesome! I enjoyed it so much more than my skydiving experience in New Zealand (read here) as there is no free fall at all. Basically, I hung out on a comfy seat floating about the world like Edward Cullen in Twilight for a quick five minutes before landing in a run on the ground. You start with a run, which I apparently still did for a long time once airborne, and land in a run as well. I also started screaming before I even left the ground but I must note that at no point did I ever feel unsafe.

The best part about Voss Tandem is that it’s all certified. The booking system is also super easy. I put in my contact details and date, and a few minutes later I had a text from Biorjan, my pilot, confirming I was booked. Almost too easy! Jaime referenced my booking in a second submission and the two pilots hooked up behind the scenes to ensure we could ‘fly’ together.

Paraglider coming in for landing

Biorjan told me his whole story to calm my nerves. He’s been jumping off things such as this since 2005, is a carpenter by trade and does it for fun to help support his new born twins. I knew most of that though because I looked him up on Facebook in advance and the pictures of him gliding off of a mountain with a parachute wearing a pair of skies gave me the confidence I needed. I almost tried to trade Jamie though after learning that her pilot Oyvan is somewhat of a local legend, the ‘grandfather of paragliding’ they say.

Tandem paragliding with Biorjan in Voss

Lisa, Jaime and pilot Biorjan before the paragliding flight

Following our big success, it was straight down to the popular Tre Brør (Three Brothers) in town for a magnificently huge and delicious cheeseburger coupled with a beer from the Voss Brewery.

Day 3: Stalheim

View of Nærøy Valley from the Stalheim Hotel

If you ever wondered what a cross between the Grand Budapest Hotel and the hotel featured in the thriller The Shining would be like, then the Stalheim Hotel is worth a visit. Once the golden hotel of Norway in the 80s, it certainly has seen its day. But what draws the tour buses and tourists stopping in off of on their Norway in a Nutshell adventures is simply, the view!

After finishing up in Voss it made sense to us to go the short distance to the hotel to relax for the night before carrying on. And I must urge, if you don’t stay in a room with a view you shouldn’t stay here at all. Sure, it’s cute with baby pink linen, a mint green bathtub with powder blue tiles and has a very weird charm to it and all but for the most expensive accommodation on our trip (again, we were paying for the view) you’d at least expect a working ice machine, an upgrade from paper cups, a step up from generic toiletries in the bathroom, and a functioning gift shop.

The lobby confused me, and maybe that was the point. Furniture from many different periods scattered between rooms set against fire places, cozy corners, and the huge windows that looked out to the famed ‘view’. But when there is nothing around but the great outdoors, confined to an overpriced, tired buffet attended by large Asian tour groups and a few honeymooners, dinner did the trick, but only just. A sneaky hint of peanuts in the pesto sauce nearly set Jaime’s allergy off. Even scarier, this is a country that takes food allergies very seriously as signs with food contents and potential allergens are posted in nearly every eatery.

“Excuse me what type of deer is this? Rein?” At least we tried the country’s meal of choice, reindeer, but I wasn’t exactly sure how to ask without being awkward if it was the real thing. Good news though, she nodded back with a yes.

Despite waking up to rain in the morning, the second best part was then driving down from the top of the mountain through ‘the view’. A super-steep, windy road took us away from the hotel, further into the Nærøy Valley. Stunning waterfalls, 25 in the Valley alone to be precise, sprung from each corner as the countryside further presented itself.

Day 4: Nærøyfjord

Rain has cleared on Nærøyfjord

On my bucket list for years has been to see the famed fjords of Norway. So here we were, boarding a vessel at Gudvangen to take us 2.5 hour through the most famed and picturesque fjords of the country, and it was pissing rain! Everyone knows everything looks better in the sun. Reduced visibility from the fog and clouds, I can still say that it was totally awesome.

Sure, the whole boat is full of tourists, but like anywhere else that’s what happens when you do the most touristy thing in a place. Yea, it was so cool. Waterfall, waterfall, waterfall…did you just see that waterfall? Oh, and the village of Undredal. Cutest thing I have ever seen!

Cutest town in Norway, Undredal

People watching is also a favorite past time so we sipped a few beers, stayed warm and came out during the really good bits to take some photos and chat to a young couple from New Jersey who gave us tips on what to do in Iceland as I’ll be there this coming New Years. We were lucky there were a few breaks in the clouds and it didn’t rain the whole time. I must go back though! Sneaky tip – try the porthole in the loo to stay dry while also getting an amazing view.

Waterfall view from the loo

Day 5: Flåm

The heart of Flam

What a name! Flåm. The final stop on the fjord cruise ends in the small village of Flåm. There’s nothing much there other then another stunning view of more waterfalls as the primary reason so many tourists and cruise ships stop in is to begin their journey on the scenic Flåm Railway.

View from Flam Marina & Apartments

Jaime and I stayed the night in town at the Flåm Marina & Apartments. It was very quant and the rooms were clean, with nice balconies overlooking the fjord. The village is so small it’s a short walk to the main bit, with a few restaurants and gift shops. The highlight however was the Ægir BrewPub. The food portions upstairs at Flåmsbrygga are huge and delicious and the beer sampling is what they do best. Set in an old stave church, the wood beam and stone Viking-looking interior and interesting shape made it an ideal place to spend the evening as the rain continued down.

Jaime is a Viking!

If traveling on the Flåm Railway (Flåmsbana) from Flåm you want a seat on the right hand side facing away from town. This showcases the most dramatic views of the landscape as the train travels across steep terrain. It makes a tourist stop on a viewing platform at Kjosfossen to view the massive waterfall 93m tall. Quite an eerie experience to view the overwhelming falls in the rain, as a woman with long hair in a red dress stood twirling on the edge of the mountain singing to the sound of spiritual music coming from what looked like an old abandoned shed.

Day 6: Geilo

Strong posing while trekking around Geilo.

When people describe taking the train across Norway from Bergen to Oslo they are not joking when they express how magnificent the journey really is. The stretch from Flåm to Geilo was straight out of something I only ever dreamed. Rivers and rapids, lakes, glaciers, snowcapped mountains, rock formations with a single fire-engine red house standing out in the distance. There’s a huge mountain biking culture here as well and many bring their bikes along to trek across this awesome terrain.

We stopped in Geilo, only to later learn that it’s an upmarket ski resort. In the summer, it’s a great place for hiking. We imagined we’d be a lot more physically active up until this point in the trip but due to the rain we swapped exercise for beers. Luckily for our stay in Geilo the weather was perfect for a 12K hike around the Ustedalsfjorden. It was pretty quiet, bar a few other hikers so it was just us and the massive valley to explore. We packed a picnic, with wine and cheese of course, and set out to do what Norwegians do best – explore the great outdoors.

Hiking through Geilo in style

We were massively disappointed to learn that the two best restaurants in town Hallingstuene and Ekte were fully booked. Even in off-season you must book well in advance. We ended up at Karma Spices of India, run by an Iranian family, and it was quite average. I’ve never before seen cheeseburgers and fish soup on any other Indian restaurant menu.

Day 7: Oslo

It’s about 4 hours from Geilo on the train to finish off in Oslo. Oslo has a reputation of being even more expensive, but also lacking in the tourism department. With just a half a day to spare we opted to go the Nobel Peace Center. It’s a great place to spend a free hour and really brought to light some of the applauding humanitarian efforts happening all across the world.

Street art at Nobel Peace Center

Honouring the Nobel Peace winners at the Nobel Peace Center in Oslo

We finished with what could only be a perfect meal. Solsiden is rated one of the top seafood restaurants in the city and overlooks the Oslo Fjord and trendy Aker Brygge waterfront. We divulged in sashimi of scallops, halibut, octopus and salmon before each devouring a delicately prepared fish main course.

Sashimi starter at Solsiden

We sadly left Oslo with empty pockets and a bit fatter than when we arrived but with happy memories, great vibes of the local people, and amazing pictures, until our next adventure as traveling buddies presents itself again.

Uluru: where camel is the new skinny

I’m out of breath. My heart is racing to the point that I think it might even be boiling. It’s 106 degrees Fahrenheit and I’m standing in dry heat in the center of Australia. Red dirt, green bush and flies. Oh, the flies. What seems like millions of them buzzing in my ear, my nostrils, my eyes. I can’t keep my concentration or focus on the incredible Walpa Gorge in Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park because of the constant buzz. I’ve only been off the plane for less than an hour and the green fly net covering my face has become my new favorite accessory.

I’m awake at 5:20 am on day 2. We hike through the long grass up to Imalung Lookout to watch the sun rise over Uluru. It’s pretty magnificent. By 8 am we’re at the base of the enormous rock to join park ranger Steve for the free Mala walk. Steve shares with us stories about aboriginal culture and introduces the fauna and wildlife. He’s passionate yet I also sense bitterness over the much controversial topic of climbing the rock. This guided walk is one of the few free things to do but it’s slow and ventured over 2 hours so we escaped before the end.

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By 10:30 am the sun becomes intense. We hire bikes and begin the 10.5k ride around the base of the rock. By 11 am the tracks have all been closed off for the day because of the heat. About half way through my thoughts get the best of me. The heart boiling sensation returns and I attach my mouth to the Camelback resting in my bike basket like an umbilical cord. There’s no giving up though. We’re literally in the outback with no one else around. There is no escape route or emergency eject button.

By the time we’ve returned I’ve coined Ayer’s Rock Resort a decrepit Disneyland. Sun faded, run down with nowhere else to go. I’m hungry and feel trapped. It might be the Melbourne food snob in me but I’m completely underwhelmed by my options. The wallaby shank from the more upmarket restaurant Bough House was average and the noodles from Ayer’s Wok were bland yet cleverly marketed. Luckily we brought some decent chardonnay with us and snagged some crumbled aged cheddar from the grocery store to treat ourselves back in the hotel room.

It’s been a long day but there is still one more thing on the agenda, a camel ride to view the sunset over the Olgas. Jesse and I get paired up with Tas, one of the smaller camels from the group of eight roped together in a conga line.

We were greeted with a good-humored safety briefing and were educated throughout the 1-hour ride on camel back. I learned that Australia is home to the largest population of wild camels in the southern hemisphere and the only feral camels left in the world. The exact number of wild camels is unknown but they guess anywhere from 500K to a million. In fact, Australia exports its camels to the Middle East.

Camel meat is full of protein and I’m anticipating it will be the new fad diet to join kangaroo and crocodile. Camel burgers truly are the new skinny.

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Just as the sun was setting we stopped propped up on a hill to witness the beautiful hues change from blue to orange and then dusk hit. Pete, the large camel tied behind Tas kept giving Jesse kisses and snuggles. Once back at the ranch we were given the most delicious damper (bread) and a healthy offering of beer and wine.

This tour was my most anticipated part to the trip and I applaud Uluru Camel Tours for exceeding my expectations. Unfortunately, I can’t say the same for the 4-hour delay we had at the airport the following day on our return to Melbourne.

To visit Uluru, one of Australia’s most iconic destinations, was definitely a bucket list item I’m so proud to have ticked.

These Two Eyes!

Welcome to These Two Eyes! Follow along for travel, food and experience recommendations across the world!

Outdoors

Living Life in Earls Vegas (aka Earlsfield, London)

Where is Earlsfield?

Why is Earlsfield called Earls Vegas?

Here are 8 reasons to visit Earlsfield:

1. The Great Outdoors

2. Pubs in Earlsfield

3. Brunch in Earlsfield

4. Coffee in Earlsfield

5. Craft Beer in SW London

6. Shopping

7. Location

8. Community

5 Reasons to Visit Belfast

Get In The Know, Positano

Where to eat in Positano

Highly recommended restaurants in Positano (that we didn’t try)

How to get to Positano from Naples Airport

Hiking the Cinque Terre with My Mom

Outstanding in the Field, Burgundy, France

5 Things I learned on Planet Iceland

My Norway in a Nutshell Itinerary

Uluru: where camel is the new skinny

Where is Earlsfield?

Why is Earlsfield called Earls Vegas?

Here are 8 reasons to visit Earlsfield:

1. The Great Outdoors

2. Pubs in Earlsfield

3. Brunch in Earlsfield

4. Coffee in Earlsfield

5. Craft Beer in SW London

6. Shopping

7. Location

8. Community

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Where to eat in Positano

Highly recommended restaurants in Positano (that we didn’t try)

How to get to Positano from Naples Airport

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