Ciao ragazzi 👋
I did a thing.
Amid challenging times, I made a bold decision: I left my job. I stepped away from security, growth, and a team I deeply cared for. I voluntarily parted ways, which is a polite way of saying, I’m open to new work opportunities.
I’ve taken this time to focus on something we often overlook and deprioritize: myself. I focused on my mental health, invested in my physical well-being, and fulfilled a long-held dream. I have just returned from a two-week solo trip to Sicily, where I enrolled in an Italian language school to brush up on the vocabulary I had lost since university.
It was a bit of an ‘Eat Pray Love’ moment or maybe just a midlife crisis, who knows, but admittedly I was scared. The feelings I experienced leading up to it were similar to when I first moved abroad from the US: to London (2003, 2006), then Australia (2011), then back to London (2015). Apprehension, excitement, and uncertainty about the unknown.
Let me be clear, there are no unlimited funds, and I’m in the midst of a pretty intense job search. Finding purpose and a long-term job in this economic climate won’t be easy, or quick. However, I learned a long time ago that life is worth living and to make the most of these gifts in breaks. Say yes…
So here I am at 40 studying abroad alone. I haven’t formally studied Italian since completing 4 years in high school and 2 semesters in university in 2001. We’re talking over 20 years ago! But it’s summer after all and I committed to making the most of the break, therefore I wanted to be in a place that felt like summer – sun, sea and gelato. Not necessarily holed up in a 2-bedroom apartment in the middle of London with pretty hit-or-miss weather.
Also, a long-term goal of Jamie and mine is to eventually afford to spend a portion of the year in London, and some of the warmer periods in Sicily. Brushing up on my rusty Italian seemed like a good place to start on making headway toward this future goal.
I started by initially researching language schools anywhere in Italy – Rome, Florence, Bologna and Tropea. But as I thought more about it, and was apprehensive about spending two weeks alone in an unfamiliar city, I turned back to Cefalu to see if there was a local language school. Cefalu is the town I got married in – I know it well and feel safe, I am also friendly with a few locals that I built relationships with over the last few years. And, it’s a beautiful seaside location for me to maximize sunbathing when I’m not studying. I got some feedback about Solemar Academy from a few locals before I enrolled, and stopped by to visit when Jamie and I were there this past June to celebrate our anniversary. It had glowing feedback! I just needed to find the courage to pull the trigger….
Arriving in Cefalu
Arriving by train from Palermo Airport, as soon as I saw the peaks of the Cathedral and the towering mountain known as La Rocca in the distance, I smiled and my heart was at ease. This makes me feel at home. I entered into Cefalu’s old town and immediately sat at a cafe in Piazza Garibaldi. ‘Posso avere un gelato al pistacchio e un caffè, per favore?’ Let’s jump straight in, ice cream and coffee, stat.
Little did I anticipate that I would need to drag my large suitcase up the steep mountainside before arriving at my vacation rental for the next two weeks. It was a sweaty journey in the heat, but perfect, nestled at the base of La Rocca, in a quiet neighbourhood on the fringe of the old and new town, surrounded by the sound of locals chatting away in the evening, baby cats (gattino) sunbathing on the cobblestones, and a view of both the sea and mountain. I couldn’t have asked for more. My emotions came rushing through, I had a little cry of gratitude and then went off into town to get stuck in.
The first stop I made was to Lido Pura Vida. Jamie and I are friendly with the owner Oswaldo, as it’s the beach club where we hosted our post-wedding recovery party. I wanted to say hello to give him a heads-up that I’m alone and will be using his beach fairly regularly over the next two weeks. I treated myself to a cheeky Spritz as the sun was starting to set over the ocean and took it all in.
Then, I went to Al Gabbiano for a quick bite. It’s one of Jamie and I’s favourite waterfront dining spots. I had a delicious, yet simple calamarata with swordfish dish. As it was my first night, I wanted to get back to the apartment before it got dark out, but not before stopping off at Cefalu Cathedral to give a nod to the big guy. The scaffolding that was up during our wedding ceremony has been taken down and the beautiful mosaic of Christ Pantocrator has been restored to all its glory.
Once home, I was keen to put my feet up, enjoy the cool breeze on my balcony and settle into a good book. I was all ready for my first day of school in the morning.
Week 1
Monday: My first day of school
Today I met students Kerstin (from Stuttgart) and Sophie (from Paris) when I arrived at Solemar Academy, which is located in the heart of the new town off of Via Roma. We sat outside on the terrace, chatting away over a coffee while discussing in anticipation what our new learning experience would be like, and what led us all to the school and to study Italian. While the others were multilingual, we chose English as a common denominator, mostly for my sake. Before I knew it, I was asked to come into the classroom for a short interview. A bit overwhelmed, I walked into a room with 4 teachers sitting across a long table as if it was set up for a panel interview. Marco started by asking me in Italian, where I was from, when I last studied Italian, what I do for work, etc. I understood the questions being asked, responded in my best broken Italian, and shared that it would be perfectly reasonable if I needed to start back at the most basic level. Simona from Solemar was super encouraging, and after assessing the placement test I submitted in advance and the conversation that just took place, she shared that I would be in level A2 (lower-intermediate). I’d be paired in a small group with Martina (64, Switzerland) and my teacher Alessandro for the first week.
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After finishing my first lessons today, my brain actually hurt. For nearly 3 hours, from 9-to-12, Alessandro led the session in Italian, and Martina and I did our best to respond and participate. ‘Piano piano’ was Alessandro’s coined phrase, meaning slowly slowly. He was very patient and encouraging.
Martina has been studying here for 3 weeks and this week is her last. She is much more comfortable than I am, and her pronunciation is more advanced. We discussed that as a result of my native language being English, and not often using some of the facial muscles required – wide open mouth, rolling R’s, this was likely the cause of my struggles. While I can understand a lot of what Alessandro was teaching, albeit would have benefitted from a verb refresher as my 11th grade Italian came rushing back, it was pretty clear my pronunciation is absolutely shit.
By the end of the session, I was ready for a break. After school, I grabbed a takeaway panino from Foodda, then went directly to Pura Vida to lie in the sun for a few hours. On the way home I went to the grocery store to stock up my fridge and was so exhausted I was early to bed.
Wednesday: Hump day
After a few days I realized that paying to go to Oswaldo’s Lido every day wasn’t realistic as it was getting expensive, so this afternoon after school I simply took my towel and laid it out directly onto the sand under the ancient old town walls, just as the locals do on ‘spiaggia libera’ (free beach). It was bliss. I even swam twice (which is rare for me) and started reading my second book. Reflecting on how anxious I was to come and be alone it was a relief to recognise that I was doing just fine. Cefalu is comfortable and safe. I reminded myself why I was there – for a rest, a break, a reward, and further encouraged myself to not feel guilty for the nap, or the cannolo… or two. YOLO. In fact, when I finished at the beach I went to eat an arancino too!
Alessandro is a great teacher and so patient. Martina is becoming a friend. I’m already wondering once she leaves at the end of the week how the dynamic of the classroom may change depending on who joins next, and also if I will swap teachers for my second week of classes.
Last night the school arranged an aperitivo at the local craft beer bar Kalapinta. It was an opportunity for the teachers and students to converse freely (in any language) and have some social time outside the classroom. It was so fun being together (5x teachers & 7x students) just casually chatting over beers, negronis, spritz and stuzzichini (small bites like olives and potato chips). It was an interesting mix of cultures. In addition to Martina, Kersten and Sophie, I also met Malte (28, Germany), Nizam (19, France), and Hiroko (Japan). I felt really at ease being surrounded by such gifted people. Many shared similar stories of being burnt out from their jobs and just wanting to take a break for themselves. It was relatable.
After, we all headed to Al Gabbiano (again, I know) for some pizza and pasta. I had one of my favourite Italian dishes ‘pasta con le sarde’ (pasta with sardines).
Friday: The end of the beginning
This week has flown by. I got a bit emotional finishing school today having to say goodbye to Martina and Alessandro. Martina has finished her 3 weeks of studies and is heading back to Switzerland where she can freely be a mountain goat, according to her (haha). Alessandro was taking a different group of students on an excursion somewhere else in Sicily so he isn’t my teacher next week. Luckily, the 3 of us and a few others shared a last hoorah meal at one of the best restaurants in Cefalu called B.I.F which specializes in steak and has a great wine cellar.
Reflecting on the week of Italian lessons, I was proud of how far I’ve come. I learned some new words and even the Italian slang ‘chillare’ – to chill out. I also studied the future tense and brushed up on my verbs. My pronunciation still stuffers but I know I need to put in more practice. I also assumed I’d be ‘living’ more in my apartment before I came to this experience but it turned out the school provided such a haven, each night I had dinner or a few drinks in the square with people from my course.
I also climbed La Rocca yesterday which is one of my favorite things to do in Cefalu. I was so full of joy and appreciation. Being in my favourite place, taking a mental break, with a lot of gratitude for Jamie and my family for supporting me in jetting off. I’m so grateful for this experience. La dolce vita!
Week 2
Monday: Round two begins
My friend Rachael joined me in Palermo over the weekend. Spending time in the city made me realize how much I love it! We stayed near Capo Market which was perfect for visiting Via Maqueda which is a pedestrian street with loads of restaurants and bars and it’s super safe. I also showed her the trendy neighbourhood of La Kalsa where we watched England play in the Euros. We ended up later that night in Vucciria Market which is a bit crazy but always a fun time and a great vibe.
The next day we explored the shops along Via Emmanuele before heading to Antico Mercato. It’s only open on Sundays for some beautiful antique hunting. It was also my first time at the buzzing and famous Ballaro Market, where the food vendors shout out to tourists and you can eat a variety of street food, from fried fish, fresh fruit, handmade arancini, you name it. It’s a bit overwhelming to the senses and can be a bit crowded but it’s a must-visit for anyone in Palermo. I couldn’t believe I had never been before and I’ll definitely go back.
Also, today is the start of my second week back at school and I have a new teacher, Davide. I already got to know him while at aperitivo last week and he is also a very kind and patient teacher. My new classmate is called Stanislov (19, Ukraine) and he is a bit shy and less sociable than Martina. Davide took us both for a walk to a local cafe to demonstrate how to order a coffee in Italy – when you order ‘un caffe’ it’s an espresso that you drink while standing at the bar, then pay over the counter when you finish. Remember, no cappuccino after 12!
Thursday: It’s nearly time to go home
Today is my last full day on the beach and I’m already getting sad that my two weeks are coming to an end. Where did the time go? I want to just float here in the ocean longer, admiring how warm and clear the water is. Watching families on their summer break, children and friends laughing and smiling. I know it’s only mid-July but I don’t want summer to end and I’m hearing horror stories about the weather back in London. Starring back at La Rocca and the Cathedral, I remember how this view from the water made Jamie and I fall in love with Cefalu in the first place. I feel so lucky.
I now have new friends. Alessandro, Davide, Giueseppe, Simona and Marco from Solemar Academy. Francesco the estate agent of my rental property. Antonio the owner of Kalapinta. My classmates – a teacher from France, a judge from Germany, a chemist from Czechia, and many others – we’re all here alone, soul searching, prioritizing ourselves. And old friends too… Oswaldo from the beach bar, Valentina my wedding planner, Davide from La Brace and Manu the waitress from the Duomo. I also have had new experiences at restaurants and shops that I had never been to before.
I was so anxious to come but it’s exactly what I needed. Do I have more clarity on what my next job will be? Not really, but it was nice to not have to stress for a short while and if saying no to opportunities that don’t feel right count, I did that plenty.
Am I any better at speaking Italian? Not really. In fact, on my last day at Lido Pura Vida, I tried to explain to Oswaldo in my Italian that Rachael would be joining me soon. He laughed and replied, ‘Oh Lisa, e molto brutta!’ – basically my speaking was that bad in his view but I merely replied as Alessandro would, ‘piano piano’. I’m proud of the effort I put in for 3 hours a day over the last two weeks. I feel that little bit closer to my future dual residence vision.
So what’s next? I’m back in London finalizing some interviews and getting ready to fly to the US to see my family in mid-August. But also, between now and then I have enrolled in an online class with Alessandro, 45 minutes 2x a week for the next 3x weeks. It’s a good start until I hopefully return again to Solemar next year.
Set at the base of Pic Saint-Loup, 
A short train ride from the city is the unpretentious colorful port town of Sète. Narrow canals create a maze around the old town, surprisingly busy for a Sunday when the rest of France shuts down. Families enjoyed ice-creams, as we parked ourselves in front of the foodie mecca Les Halles, to sip more rosé in the sun to the sound of locals playing music in the street out front.
After a scenic walk along the Languedoc coast, we discovered a small, quiet beach. It was an ideal and unsuspecting place to grab a baguette, some cured ham and cheese to picnic, coupled with a light, refreshing rosé in the scorching heat. On our way back to town, it was only necessary to sit along the canal to soak up the last of the day’s sun and try the big fat locally farmed oysters, king prawns and mussels.
The best part of Montpellier is not only the short 14k proximity to a stunning coastline but cycling there! A paved path with fit runners, wild horses and fishermen hug the lush green river Lez, topped with Lilly pads and flamingos and lined with bright purple, yellow and white flowers mixed with bright red poppies. We let our skirts flow with the wind as we rode hired bikes along the pathway to its mouth Palavas-les-Flots, and stopped along the way for yet again another indulging picnic and bottle of rosé to reward ourselves for the day’s efforts.
Montpellier is an interesting city for sure. A friend asked why go? There’s nothing there, he said. But if you like great wine, fresh seafood and fantastic weather, there’s nothing not to like. It’s a quirky and charming place, tattoo and piercing shops nestle up next to century-old buildings; student friendly cheap eats, kabab and bagel shops rival Michelin recommended bistros while street performers, hippies and homeless dogs roam the streets.
“Summer is for tourists, wine country is for locals,” Karina said. And I’d like to pretend just for a weekend I was both. Even better, Montpellier turned Sophie from a rosé sceptic to a convert. Nothing beats a rosé holiday!
Stepping off of the plane at midnight to 75 degree weather was a welcoming change to this dreary London summer. “Ah, it smells like I’m going to get tan!” I claimed with confidence after feeling the heat; taking in that unmistakable holiday feeling you get in the Mediterranean climate.
These Two Eyes! 