Living Life in Earls Vegas (aka Earlsfield, London)

So, what’s it like living in Earlsfield, London? The self-proclaimed Earls Vegas?

Earlsfield Station, London

I’ll not only share how I ended up living in this family-friendly haven of SW London but also 8 reasons why you should visit Earlsfield too.

Since moving back to the UK in 2015 I’ve made Southwest London my home. This city, divided by those who claim eternal loyalty to either living north or south of the river Thames, was a place I’d lived twice prior (2003, 2006) however this was my first venture living South. I’ll let you in on a little secret though, I absolutely love it. My loyalty to SW London now stands stronger than I ever imagined.

My first home was off of trendy Northcote Road in Clapham Junction. Whilst Clapham is coined “Nappy Valley” due to the abundance of affluent young families and strollers/buggies, it also has a reputation for its twenty-something party scene and abundance of Aussie, Kiwis and Saffas.

Clapham is technically split across 4 areas and transport links: Clapham High Street, Clapham North, Clapham South and Clapham Junction – each providing their own unique charm. My flat off of Northcote Road gave me access to a number of trendy boutiques (Oliver Bonas), mom and pop restaurants (Cafe Tamra, Made in Italy, Opa Opa, Dip & Flip) and some decent bars (Vagabond, The Old Bank, Northcote Records, Draft House) to keep me hopping along any night of the week, plus the transportation links are fantastic. I lived there for 2 and half years and loved it.

Next, my partner Jamie and I moved one neighbourhood over to Wandsworth Town. I dreaded the move initially, despite it being in walking distance to Clapham Junction Station. St. John’s Hill replaced our regular nights dining out and we ventured to new places such as Kao Sarn and Pizza Brixton, with flash cocktails always available late at night from Powder Keg. Even my local yoga studio Sadhana Yoga and Wellbeing was perfectly situated.

So for our most recent move, thanks to our landlord selling in a reflex reaction to Brexit, I shuddered at the thought of going even further afield to Earlsfield. From the perspective of some, I’m in proper suburbia. To others who actually live in suburbia, I’m still very central in London. Welcome to Earls Vegas!

Where is Earlsfield?

Earlsfield is a leafy suburb of Wandsworth Council, London, located between Clapham Junction and Wimbledon. With the greenery and transport links of Wandsworth Common, high street shops of Garratt Lane and appealing proximity to Central London, it provides a suburban feel with all of the urban amenities.

What I sacrificed for trendy Northcote Road I made up with outdoor space. I never would have dreamed it would become such a privilege, especially now as I type this during lockdown from COVID-19 (Coronavirus). I have a big outdoor yard which has been a lifesaver during the precious days of sun, with a garden patch full of rhubarb, thyme, bay and rosemary included – how lucky. Saturday afternoons spent playing outdoor games with a 6-year old and doing odd-jobs like power washing and deck staining have kept me busy whilst not working due to redundancy. Plus, I’m a sucker for a tan.

Backyard Fun

Why is Earlsfield called Earls Vegas?

Unsuspecting to the naked eye, many assume Earlsfield is only for young family units and retirees, yet leafy Earlsfield does have some nightlife. The Wandle, named after the local estuary the River Wandle, is renowned for its vast beer garden, a line-up of cover bands and summer BBQs to the beat of live sports. Graffiti Bar, a gimmicky cocktail bar offers an £80 bar tab when you complete their menu of cocktails (which, obviously we’re in the running for) and is open until 2 am. Then again, the Leather Bottle is known to have one of the best beer gardens in all of Southwest London, enlarged garden games and pastel-painted sheds included.

Cocktails at Graffiti Bar, Earlsfield

Here are 8 reasons to visit Earlsfield:

1. The Great Outdoors

Southwest London has a plethora of outdoor space. In Earlsfield specifically, you can spend time in the vast greenery of Wandsworth Common – whether it be for a run, a game of football (where Jamie’s 6-year old plays in a weekend league) or to have a few drinks with friends.

Daily walks along the pond of Wandsworth Common

I’d also recommend a walk along the River Wandle. While some aspects require you to cut through various residential neighbourhoods, the Wandle passes through the South London Boroughs of Croydon, Sutton, Merton, and Wandsworth to join the River Thames. The river is about 11 miles long.

2. Pubs in Earlsfield

Prior to moving to Earlsfield, we discovered what we like to call the ‘Garratt Lane Pub Crawl’. Starting on Garratt Lane near Southside in Wandsworth, you can easily hop along to about 10 pubs, from the Garratt Tavern at the start to the Leather Bottle to finish.

Our favourites include:

Tir Na Nog – family-run Irish pub with free snacks daily
Grosvenor Arms – amazing pizzas and a good selection of craft drafts
The Earlsfield – try their rack of ribs, you won’t regret it
Halfway House – close to the train station and outdoor seating for people watching
Leather Bottle – amazing beer garden and decent Sunday roast

The Leather Bottle, Earlsfield

3. Brunch in Earlsfield

You can’t do a Saturday in London without a decent brunch. Earlsfield doesn’t fail to deliver either. Despite the sad closure of Bloody Ben’s (a sister restaurant to a favourite of ours on St. John’s Hill), there are plenty of options to keep you full of avocado toast.

Our favourites include:

Hallowed Belly – each week they offer a discount to the local ‘street of the week’

Closed Hallowed Belly, Earlsfield

Bean and Hop – sister cafe to Northcote Road top-pick Cafe Tamra, delicious middle-eastern inspired breakfast, pizza in the evenings and craft beer
Flotsam and Jetsam – all-day breakfast, fresh juices and amazing coffee. This is one to queue up for after a game on the Common.

4. Coffee in Earlsfield

While you have your fair share of big chains (Starbucks, Costa, Gails), it’s the independent guys that give Earlsfield a community feel. Especially during COVID-19, we love supporting them as they open up for take-aways and have turned themselves into mini-grocers.

Our favourites include:

Belle Amie – Offering brunch options too, Belle Amie is somewhere you can enjoy a great bite of their unique Tarte Flambée with a sip of roasted Allpress coffee beans.
Bonsai Espresso Room – Speciality coffee and cakes in a quirky cafe just across from the Common. They’ve mastered the art of no-contact take-away with installed plexiglass.

The outdoor menu at Bonsai Espresso Room on Wandsworth Common

Eclectic Collection – eclectic vibes and great coffee, they’ve stayed open during lockdown by serving the community with eggs, flour and takeaway brunch!

Beautiful Eclectic Collection in Earlsfield, London

5. Craft Beer in SW London

We wouldn’t live in Southwest London if we couldn’t have our craft beer. Luckily there are many breweries within walking distance. We like supporting these guys when we can – even better, we can’t wait until they open again to enjoy their taprooms and have a beer at the picnic tables out front. All do local deliveries or pick-up service.

By the Horns – Try Hopodelic

Enjoying the sunshine at By The Horns Brewery

Bellevue – Try Surf IPA

Supporting local breweries, Belleview Brewery

Wimbledon Brewery – Try Wimbledon Pale

6. Shopping

Fair enough, Earlsfield isn’t a shoppers paradise but there is enough to keep you entertained during a family walk on a Saturday afternoon. First up you have Southside shopping centre at the end of Garratt Lane – hop on the bus or stroll down if you really need a shop at the big Sainsburys, Waitrose, Sports Direct etc. But what gives Earlsfield it’s proper charm are the antique, charity and speciality shops. My favourite is Lark, independent clothing, accessory, and jewellery shop with 6 Southwest London sites.

7. Location

I know, right? At first, I was saying, “oh no, not Earlsfield” and now I’m bragging about the location. It’s not so bad really. It’s a good sandwich to be in the middle of – you’ve got Tooting on one end only a 5-minute bus ride away with delicious curry houses and thriving markets, Northcote Road less than a 30-minute walk away with all my old favourites, Wimbledon Village just one more train stop with all the flash chains and then Wandsworth Town. Balham too is an achievable walk. In fact, I walk everywhere; and when in doubt there’s a bus, and when in doubt again there’s a train. If only the London Santander city bikes (aka Boris Bikes) were this ‘far’ out.

Tooting Broadway Market

8. Community

Yes, of course, the community! We say hi to our neighbours, we collaborate on the Earlsfield Facebook Group (otherwise nicknamed ‘The Chat’ due to the gossipy comments) and of course take great pride in clapping every Thursday evening at 8 pm for our amazing NHS. I love looking over and seeing the rest of the street participate too!

Clapping for our NHS in Earlsfield, London

So that’s that – life in Earls Vegas. I have high hopes that all of the above and those who plan to open survive the upside of this COVID-19 lockdown. And if you do consider residing in this lovely corner of London, just be careful of those pesky foxes. They will have a field day in your garbage, snack at your garden and keep you up at night with their howls (more like grunts).

Welcome to the fabulous Earlsvegas! Graffiti Bar, Earlsfield

Drinking Kölsch in Cologne

Cologne (Köln) has long been on my list of places to visit, but I can’t exactly point my finger to why. I don’t have much experience travelling in Germany, bar debauchery during Oktoberfest 2006 and an all-night bender in Berlin the same year. But something about Cologne must have grabbed me to put it on my bucket list a few years back.

Perhaps because the colourful, pastel houses that line the Rhine River are beautiful, despite that fact that about 75% of Cologne was destroyed by bombs during WWII and much of the city had to be rebuilt. Or the fact that it’s a university town, one of the oldest and largest in Europe, so it’s young at heart. But after spending a weekend in this abruptly charming city, I’ve learned so much more than anticipated.

Going in with no expectations was the trick. For both me and my Aussie travelling companion Hannah, our goals were quite simple – eat hearty German food, drink delicious Kölsch beer and surprise ourselves with who we might meet or what we might learn by wandering aimlessly throughout the small, 2,000-year-old city.

We positioned ourselves at the recently launched 25 Hour Circle Hotel. It’s in the northwest corner of the city centre, just on the edge of the trendy Belgian Quarter, and easily walkable to any of the main sites such as the famous Cologne Cathedral, Old Town and the student bars on Zülpicher Strasse.

Ultra-hip is a start to begin to describe this unique and futuristic, Berlin-designed hotel. Robots roam the lobby (for-real!), rooms are fitted with retro gadgets and the rooftop Monkey Bar screams urban chic, with cathedral views and amazing cocktails to support its claim. Plus, staff were super nice and helpful, bikes are available to rent, and there’s even a sauna for guest usage.

I’m also a huge fan of tours when it comes to getting to know the more intimate details of a city, and so we booked with The Kölsch Guys when we arrived, one of the few tours running in winter as well as English speaking. Our host Ariane, a local university student, spoke impeccable English (thanks to her Canadian mother) and was very useful in teaching us about Cologne culture, Kölsch beer and local history and architecture.

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Kölsch Beer & Brewhouse Facts:

The first rule of a brauhaus, put your coaster down in front of you to indicate you would like a Kölsch.
When you want them to stop coming (and they will keep on bringing them!), place your coaster on the top of your glass to indicate you’re finished.
The koebes (waiter) will keep track of how many Kölsch you drink by marking a tick on your coaster for each drink.
They’ll also be deliberately rude until you’ve ordered your fill; it’s part of the tradition.
Each brauhaus has its own Kölsch or family recipe. This comes from a barrel (not a keg, as the carbon dioxide would change its unique taste). It has to follow a proven formula, a similar concept to the French DOC for Champagne, to officially be called Kölsch.
“Prost” is the way you say cheers before taking your first sip.
4.8% ABV is the average for Kölsch, served in a 200ml skinny glass and distributed from a wreath holding 11 Kölsch glasses.

The Kölsch Guys Beer Tour:

We learned quite quickly that Cologne has its own arrogance about it, but balances it with a dry sense of humour that really is a teddy bear at heart. Koebe’s want your service, they want to speak English and they appreciate your patronage but they’ll act like they’re doing you a favour at the same time. It’s part of the charm and their mentality to be rude and up front, and notably more forward than other German cities.

Kölsch in itself is unique. It’s a light, easy drinking beer that’s part of the local life and culture. Residents grow up drinking Kölsch quite young, and people decide where they are going to hang out based on the brewhouse whose Kölsch is to their preferred taste.

It was at our first stop Brauerei zur Malzmühle where we had our first Mühlen Kölsch and learned the basics about how to approach this local beer (see above).

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Our second stop, Gilden im Zims, is an original brauhaus built before the war, with antiqued Roman remains stored behind glass windows in the floor. This is also an exception to Kölsch predominately being family owned, as this one is a franchise.

I personally found the Sünner Kölsch at our third stop Sünner im Walfisch a bit more flat tasting than the others, but the overall atmosphere very cosy. It was on our way here that we learned about the importance the number 11 has to the city, with their traditional Carnival (fifth season) starting at 11 am on the 11th of November, and even the beer wreaths holding 11 Kölsch.

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Finally, at Brauhaus Sion, a 700-year-old brewhouse, we saw our first example of how the locals dress for Carnival, from fancy dress to sophisticated traditional garments.

For a quick way to get your head around how important Kölsch is to those from Cologne, this tour was friendly, affordable and worth it. How else would we have learned not to take locals too seriously? As Adriane said, “Cologne humour is only funny to Cologne.”

Where to eat in Cologne:

Peters Brauhaus

Peters Brauhaus is one of the more famous “must go” to for traditional Kölsch, and equally for some satisfying local grub. The same can be said for many of the other traditional brewhouses. But we came to Peters for one thing, pork knuckle! Crispy, juicy and cooked to perfection, with savoy cabbage and fried bacon-potatoes, it was out of this world massive and delicious.

Plus, we loved our waitress. She optimised the quintessential Cologne wait staff, even before we really knew what it was about. With bright red lipstick and short curly grey hair, for a woman in her 60s, she had all the sass I would expect. She was beautiful, acted fed up, with a brisk, no-nonsense attitude that was charming at that same time. I liked her and didn’t want to do the wrong thing by her.

She perfected the dry sarcastic humour we were told about. “Can we please order food?,” I asked politely. “Why not?” was her abrupt reply. I desperately wanted a photo but was too intimidated that she wouldn’t have stood for it.

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More importantly, though, can you imagine devouring a pork knuckle hungover? The dream for any fried and grease loving meat eater.

Bei Oma Kleinmann

Next up is known as the best schnitzel in Cologne, you don’t have to ask me twice. Bei Oma Kleinmann, situated in the buzzing student area, is a must stop when visiting. I recommend to book ahead or join the queue for when they open at 5 pm daily to try and snag a seat at the bar while you wait for a table. I have no regrets about our “early bird special”.

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The staff are great and speak English, the Sünner Kölsch is free-flowing and even the wine list was above average compared to what we found in other brewhouses. The whole restaurant has so much character, the walls covered floor to ceiling in photos, both real as well as wallpaper that they had custom made with original photos after being fed up with them coming down all the time. My favourite was one of Carnival dating back to 77’.

When it came to the schnitzel though, I bow down. You have options of traditional veal or pork as it is, or can choose from one of the ten or so sauces on the side, from mushroom to pineapple curry. Honestly, they’re not needed as the veal was fried to such perfection, each bite was followed with “OMG it’s soooooo good.”

The homemade potato salad was a great accompaniment, as were the fries, and it worked well to order one of each to share between us. I didn’t think we’d manage, but both smashed our whole plates till not a bite was left. There’s always the children’s option (only 1 cutlet instead of two) for those less inclined, but my suggestion is to come hungry and enjoy! There’s a reason they’re number 1.

Salon Schmitz

Rated as a place “to be seen” in the trendy Belgian Quarter, Salon Schmitz is a laid back cafe, bar and salon wrapped into 3 separate buildings offering regional food with their own Kölsch on tap. It was a bit of a strange concept to have to place your order through the window next door, but order your drink seated at a table from the waiter in the 60’s themed bar, but we were satisfied none of the less. Their English was friendly, the menu more of a guess!

Cafe Waschsalon

Cafe Waschsalon was a great spot to stop in for lunch. This concept cafe is a converted old laundromat, eccentric and friendly, despite minimal English speaking, they tried really hard – in a good way. They specialise in light fare, coffees and juices during the day and are known to have good cocktails in the evening. I was in love with the goat cheese and walnut salad and would happily return.

All Kölsch’ed out? Here is where to drink cocktails in Cologne:

Monkey Bar

The rooftop bar at the 25 Hour Circle Hotel is one of the hottest new cocktail bars in town. In fact, when we arrived at 7 pm expecting it to be quiet (as were the other bars in the neighbourhood at that time), we were surprised to find it pumping. The Negronis were strong and on point as well as their own version of a pisco sour was impressive. “It’s the best Negroni I’ve ever had,” said Hannah. 112 Euro later, and her hangover the next morning would beg to differ.

Cafè Restaurant Feynsinn

Just down the street from the best schnitzel in Cologne (Bei Oma Kleinmann), this casual restaurant is a hot spot for dinner, as well as, they produce a great cocktail menu. In the heart of the student area overflowing with bars, this place stands out as a more sophisticated, healthy option to schnitzel and Kölsch.

Shepheard

Hidden down a few steps with a foggy glass door with Shepheard clear across its surface, this is one of the most popular cocktail bars in the city. Despite being hard to find, it was a pleasure to sit at the bar chatting to the friendly bartender Adrian as we worked our way through their music-themed menu.

The Grid Bar

Based on a recommendation from our friends at Shepheard, this is where bartenders in Cologne come to drink. We rang the bell to be let into this sophisticated speakeasy, situated next to an amateur night club with music pumping and a long line out front, I wouldn’t have known it was here with our referral. In the end, it was another win for a great spot to try interesting cocktails with a good vibe.

In fact, we met a friendly local who talked us through his two cents on what makes Cologne so unique. “Cologne is not beautiful but a great place to live, if you want beauty go to France.” He also shared that the local “politeness” could be offensive even to other Germans who aren’t local.

“In normal places, you order your next beer, here we tell them to stop bringing it.” Thanks Tilly, great to make your acquaintance.

Time to relax…naked?

On our last day, we have had our fill of beer and schnitzel. Theoretically, many are still staying strong to their post-Christmas diets and dry-January obligations, which don’t seem to exist in Cologne. So, we thought what better way to reward ourselves and come back to London more refreshed than ever with a nice relaxing spa.

Searching “Best Spas” in Cologne we came across a few that were central to the city. We had our eye set on Claudius Therme, but due to the rain and poor timing, we didn’t feel we could make it across the city. We also passed Bathhouse Babylon on our first day, only to learn it was one of the hottest gay spas in town – we dodged a bullet there. So, we were left with one final option, the Mauritius Hotel and Spa.

Aside from the service being quite curt and unhelpful, the bigger confusion came with a German custom we frankly weren’t aware of, nor prepared for. Shocked isn’t the word to describe our disbelief as we entered the spa area to find men and women in their 70s straight in the buff! It’s not every day an old grey-haired man enters the same swimming pool as you, slowly making his way down the stairs, bit by bit (literally). That was my cue to exit the pool, asap!

Before entering one of the many saunas, there was a clear sign stating it was nude only. We thought nothing of it and carefully entered one where we knew no one else was present and stripped down to our bathing suits. During a refreshing dip in the jacuzzi after, where we were politely asked to keep the volume of our voices down as it was echoing and distracting to guests who were sleeping, we were pretty sure the guard on duty had it out for us. That was proven just moments later as Hannah was called out for wearing her knickers in the ‘strictly nude’ sauna and was asked to refrain from future use.

It was easy for us to walk away at that point. What might be part of the local culture was frankly getting just a bit too weird. When is being dressed frowned up and nudity required? Someone only from their local customs can explain better than I can at this point.

So, clothed or naked, when is the ideal time to visit Cologne? So what if it rained the whole time we were there, any time is the right time! Carnival in February is their busiest season, but otherwise, there’s nothing stopping you for taking a weekend getaway to drink Kölsch, eat great food and mingle with the locals. They really are friendlier than then on first impressions! Plus, there are some great museums to try too (if you can find the time).

Christmas Markets in Bruges

Colourful guild house, Bruges market square

Bruges is one of Europe’s most picturesque and romantic cities, with an irresistible charm all year round. But visiting Bruges in the lead up to Christmas makes it even more enchanting.

Christmas lights in Bruges

Furthermore, getting from London to Bruges on the Eurostar is easy as pie, which also means there is a very good chance you may return home with heavier suitcases than intended, thanks to some amazing Belgian beer at prices you only can get locally. Or at least that was the case (literally) for us as there are no alcohol restrictions on the Eurostar so it beats flying any day.

Bruges Christmas Markets at dusk

What makes Bruges so charming though is the pastel coloured medieval guild houses that line the market square. In fact, they were gorgeous in the sunlight but became even more mesmerising once dusk approached and the twinkly Christmas lights that covered them were lit. That, coupled with romantic canals, handmade chocolates, hearty meals in cosy pubs and a vast variety of quality beer, I’ve got nothing but praise.

Chocolatier in Bruges

Christmas Markets

Bruges Christmas Market Square

We spent some time in the Christmas Village (Kerstmarkt Brugge) in the Bruges Market Square (Grote Market), overdoing our selfie game to the picturesque backdrop and roaming through the stalls who were selling winter hats, Christmas decorations and lots of booze. Attempting to blend in with the locals, we tried our hand at the Chouffe Coffee Liqueur with whipped cream, it was very sweet but also felt pretty special at that moment considering the setting.

Bratwurst with onions

The main square is also the heart of where the tourists roam. This is likely due to the beautiful backdrop of the Belfry of Bruges, made famous in the movie In Bruges (2008). Also on the Market Square, you will find the “Historium”, a historical experience which takes you back in time to medieval Bruges. There are also horse-drawn carriages, restaurants in colourful guild houses and an ice rink for the winter season. In fact, at the foot of the Belfry are the “world’s most famous chippies” known as frietkoten, something we discovered making our way home late at night after too many Belgian pints.

There was also a second set of markets (Simon Stevinplein) – these stalls were selling more clothing and decorations, and it was there we befriended Mattias and his local friends who welcomed us to a game of “nails”.

Here’s the gist…you stand around a large tree stump and each take turns to hammer your 9-inch nail into the stump whilst in a circle. If your nail gets hammered in first, you must buy the next round of nails, if your nail goes in last, you buy the next round of beers. The first is definitely much more appealing to the latter considering the cost was 3 Euro to 20.

The markets on Saturday were also much busier than during the daytime on Friday – perhaps this was because this was the first weekend they were open and so the locals were very active in town as well. The Bruges Christmas markets run November 23, 2018 to January 1, 2019.

Accommodation

La Maison Zenasni, Bruges

We stayed at the adorable bed and breakfast La Maison Zenasni, which I highly recommend. A huge mansion set only a few blocks from the main square, you can’t help but ooh and ahhh as you enter. They even had our names on a welcome board when we arrived, a nice personal touch.

Welcome to La Maison Zenasni

There are only 3 rooms in this antiquated wooden palace, each decked out with their own theme – we had the blue room. We fell asleep staring at the large chandelier hanging from the high ceiling, bathed in an old cast iron bathtub and woke on Sunday morning to church bells outside our large open window, Jamie’s favourite part. The only downfall was the lack of toiletries and that there was no mounted shower head.

Breakfast Room, La Maison Zenasni, Bruges

Breakfast was included and we dined along with the other guests on a huge wooden communal picnic table, the massive glass window showered us with natural light, as we devoured a spread of delectable cheeses and pastries, attempting to cure our hangovers.

But enough about the accommodation, let’s get onto the beer!

Pubs

Our first stop was Café Vlissinghe, the oldest bar in Bruges originally built in 1515. Hidden away from the market and the masses of tourists, this Flemish gem was super cosy, with an old stove keeping the small Inn very warm. In the summer months, the large garden in the back seems ideal for a delicious beer outside in the sun.

Café Vlissinghe

Jack Russell, Café Vlissinghe

Julius Blonde, Café Vlissinghe

Jamie tried his hand at the guest beer which was a Julius Blonde, and I went with the Vlissinghe house beer. We snacked on chunky salami and tasty cheese before Jamie was told off for feeding the very adorable Jack Russell. I’m not going to say “I told you so.”

Bruges canals

We moved on from there to a sports pub called The Monk who have a pretty good array of beers on tap to try. Here we chatted to friendly James, an Englishman from Hastings trying to hide his accent behind his Flemish after 11 years in Bruges, about which beers we should try and what restaurants he favours in town. I couldn’t resist Chimay Blue’s dark rich flavour while Jamie went with his mate’s suggestion of Cherry Chouffe, a new favourite that made its way home with us.

La Corne

Everywhere we went we picked out a new beer which would come with its own glass custom from the brewery. It means you can literally choose your beer by the glass you want to drink from (like a horn for La Corne or an hourglass with a wooden holder for Kwak), that is, if you’re open to experimenting with new varieties and taking a risk. Jamie was shocked, on the other hand, to learn that most beers are at least 8% ABV but still taste delicious, something he admits isn’t the case ‘back home’ in England.

Talking beer at Cambrinus, Bruges

At Cambrinus, an old pub with over 400 beers, we met another English beer coinsurer, from Lincolnshire, who swears that Westvleteren, a brewery founded in 1838 at the Trappist Abbey of Saint Sixtus in Vleteren, Belgium, is one of best beers in the world. They had it in the bottle there for about 19 Euro, so we booked in for lunch the next day to try carbonnade, the famous Flemish stew made with beef/lamb and beer and ordered a tasting paddle of their best draft beers. The portions were huge and hearty – we tried the fried cheese, carbonnade and homemade meatballs – and the staff were very friendly. Just make sure you book ahead or expect to get turned away.

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Another option is to try the Bruges Beer Experience. Interactive and educational, you are taken through the history of brewing all the way through to learning about global beer varieties. For us, it was a great way to escape the rain. Using an iPad, you walk around the venue to either read or listen, and at various points you can quiz your knowledge or participate in multi-sensory learning by smelling hops, tasting notes or pairing foods. Entry is 9 Euro or 15 Euro including 3 beer tastings at the end, which is worth it!

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There are a few breweries right in the heart of Bruges, so we tried our hand at Bourgogne des Flandre. It’s located in a beautiful setting right on a canal, which I’d imagine provides wonderful views in the summer. We thought it wiser to stay warm inside and try a paddle tasting to sample all the Flemish beers. Luckily, Jamie and I have opposite tastes so we quickly split the beers in half after discovering our preferences.

Christmas Beers

Finally, to our favourite pub T’bruges Beertje. The trick for this small tasting house is to skip the overcrowded front room, keep walking past the toilets, and you’ll find even more tables in the back. I loved the vibe of the whole place, covered in various beer logos and adverts. If it wasn’t full of tourists you’d want it to be your local. They have about 300 beers in bottles and are very friendly and open to discussing your tastes and finding the right beer. In fact, they had such a variety of Christmas beers that we decided to embrace the season and get stuck in.

Dinner

While scouring local reviews for a top-notch restaurant for our anniversary dinner, I settled on Park Restaurant. Their set menu of 70 Euros includes wines, so wasn’t too bad for the value. The reviews raved about owner Axel and the personal service offered. I couldn’t agree more. Set in a huge old townhouse down a quiet street away from the heaps of tourists, classically decorated, tall candle lights, white table clothes and all.

Park Restaurant, Bruges

With that said, there were some gaps that make it clear why they haven’t received their Michelin Star just yet…the menu never changes aside from small touches – the butter was served in paper rather than handmade, and the walls are filled with European celebrities who have visited over the years. But hey, it’s a model that works.

Dinner at Park Restaurant

Overall it was a comforting, old-fashioned dining experience with great service, tasty food and a charming ambience but was it worth it for the hefty price tag? Maybe, just to meet Axel. He gave us good recommendations on where to go on from there (see Late Night).

But a cut above was Bistro Christophe. This contemporary Flemish restaurant was on many of the top foodie blogs of Bruges, so naturally also made it onto my shortlist. When James at The Monk also recommended it, I felt we had to give it a go, even if that meant two expensive meals back to back.

Chateaubriand at Bistro Christophe

The service was excellent, but the food even more heavenly. We split the chateaubriand and were over the moon with the quality of the cut and the accompanying sauces with a bottle of Caruso & Minini Terre di Giumara Frappato – Nerello – Mascalese wine.

Late Night

Thanks to the recommendations of Axel land our friends from Surry who bumped into at the Bruges Beer Experience, we were in no shortfall of post-dinner options. In fact, there was a good mix of basement style bars catering to students and higher-end cocktail joints.

Both evenings we ended up chatting away over a few whiskeys to the friendly staff at Comptoir Des Arts, a fun and casual basement bar where you can check out live jazz. Across the street at ‘t Poatersgat, things were a bit busier with a much more student vibe. Hidden behind a concealed hole in the wall, go down the stairs to enter this casual dive bar, with a big select of beers on draft, and easy place to lose the time. Some say it’s a must for Bruges!

With friends at BAR”N

BAR”N is a cute modern yet cosy cocktail bar near the main square. This was recommended by some friends, and a fun atmosphere to start or end the evening as it closes at 2.

And finally, there’s Groot Vlaenderen, a classy cocktail bar in a beautiful brick building, expect it to be crowded but with a vast array of cocktails – with the price tag to come with them. Service was slower than desired but the drinks made up for it.

Brussels

When taking the Eurostar to Bruges, you must change over in Brussels. That’s not necessarily a bad thing!

We left Bruges after checking out of our B&B and made our way over to Brussels for a few hours. This was a great call as there’s still tons to do.

Visit the Brussels Christmas Markets for lunch
Take a photo of the famous statue Manneken Pis
Wander around the Grand Palace
Taste a variety of beers in the massive Delirium Village, with 8 bars and fun atmosphere
Eat huge bowls of delicious Mussels at Chez Leon

Manneken Pis, Brussels

Delirium Village, Brussels

We also made the right move of ignoring all the tourist beer shops like the Bottle Shop where prices are extremely inflated and stopped off at Carrefour grocery store to stock up on our Delirium and La Chouffe to take back to England, for literally a fraction of the cost.

Overall it was an amazing trip together. We tried many Christmas beers and old favourites like Delerium, Chimay and Kriek but also some new varieties that are now up in my books, such as La Chouffe and Trappist. Drinks aren’t that expensive either, expect to pay about 4 Euro for a very strong beer, however, dinner can put you out a bit more with starters between 10-15 Euro and mains 20-30.

I can’t wait to go back!

Lisa & Jamie in Bruges

Eating Prague Craft Beer & Food Tasting Tour

With Prague being one of the top beer destinations in Europe, one doesn’t need to go too far within the city walls to taste a beautiful pint of Pilsner. However, as it boasts more and more tourists each year, what can be difficult to find is a decent drinking hole that only locals know about.

There are countless beer and food tours in Prague, ranging from cheap pub crawls to multi-sensory foodie experiences. When I surprised my two friends with a trip to the “city of a hundred spires”, I wanted the right balance of beer education, delicious food and of course, some fun. Luckily, I stumbled upon Eating Prague Tours, Craft Beer and Food Tasting Tour (previously Brews with Views), and never looked back.

I had done my research before we set off, and was pleasantly surprised to visit a number of places I had already earmarked on my list. Without this tour though, I likely wouldn’t have visited them all simply because we might have deemed them ‘too far’ out of our way or sidetracked doing something else. Most importantly, we would have missed out on all the fascinating education we experienced being led around by our local, Jan!

Eating Prague Tours Guide Jan

Our meeting point was at 2:30 on Loď Pivovar. I had heard a lot about this craft brewery that’s literally situated on a boat, tanks and all! It’s an awesome place to spend the afternoon looking out onto the river, where the 3 of us enjoyed their standard 3 beers all varying in degrees (Legie 10 degrees, Republika 12 degrees, and Monarchie 13 degrees), the dark one (Monarchie) the most memorable with coffee and chocolate undertones. Rumor has it that the brewer was previously employed at the famous tourist spot U Fleku, was let go after years of loyalty, so stole the recipe for their famous dark beer and brought it over, and it tastes worlds better. But that just may be a tall tale. 😉

Lod Pivovar Craft Brewery Boat, Prague

Pickled fish meatballs on Loď Pivovar

Pickled fish and roasted barley on Loď Pivovar

No tasting would be completed without a food pairing and the roasted barley served hot with butter and salt was the perfect beer snack. Goodbye popcorn and peanuts, hello barley. Secondly, we read a bit about pickled fish and cheese in advance, so when a jar with clear liquid, some vegetables and two big brown blobs were presented we weren’t quite sold initially yet were intrigued. But after trying one bite of the previously battered and fried pickled fish cake (meatballs) I was a convert. I would go back for more right now it was so darn delicious.

We spent the first hour or so getting to know Jan and the basics of the Czech beer world. The rise of craft beer is so steady that Jan claims that 1 new craft brewery opens a week in the Czech Republic, adding to the already 370 craft brewers in the country. This a warm welcome to contradict some of the big-name players likes Staropramen, who Jan depicts as officially the worst beer in the country, as they replaced yeast with syrup when they began to mass produce under Anheuser-Busch.

Maso A Kobliha

We were then taken to a more residential area where we stopped off at Maso A Kobliha, the home to a well-known British butcher to taste his Scotch eggs accompanied with an American Pale Ale, Matuška Apollo Galaxy, a brewery in Broumy, Czech Republic. This cute spot off the beaten path is a great place to also stop for brunch or a coffee, and are also specifically known for their donuts. It was here that I learned about three distinct tastes in beer and how they vary based on origin. For example, Czech and German beer favor malt, US and British beers favor hops, and Belgian beers favor yeast. Think about it and have a big long sip, and it’s evident!

Scotch eggs from Maso A Kobliha

Another one on my list was T-Anker, known for its great views over Old Town Prague, and its collaboration with the oldest brewery in the world, Brenvov. We each told Jan what style we preferred, Penny was sticking with dark, Sophie was going for sweet, and I was keen for a Permon Winter Ale. We had a long chat at that point about what it was like to brew under communism, and Jan shared some personal stories too about growing up in the 80s when they brewed under (and still do) decoction mash, something every super beer connoisseur should know, which means the process is not automated and water or heat isn’t added to the Mash Tun. The results are proven to be more flavorful.

Naše maso famous hotdogs

Sister’s open-faced sandwiches

Our next stop off was to the celebrated Naše maso butchers for a world-famous hot dog accompanied with handmade ketchup and mustard. As Sophie is a vegetarian, we also popped across to Sister’s, a cheap and cute bistro serving the classic open-face sandwiches (herring all the way!), both places of which were on my list! As we walked, ate and talked we were advised that white Czech wine was safe to drink and reasonably good, but watch out for the red, which is known to be so bad it is usually mixed with coke.

Perníčkův sen

Gingerbread man’s dream – Perníčkův sen

On our way to what was officially our last stop on the tour, Jan popped into family-run Perníčkův sen (The Gingerbread man’s dream), to give us a personalized Prague Food Tour gingerbread cookie to celebrate the traditional food craft of the region, which I had no regrets of devouring on my way home in the early hours after a day full of pints.

Tiny mugs at PIPA, Beer Story, Prague

We finished off at Beer Story, also known as PIPA, which was one of my favorite stops full of Czech and global beers. Jan led us through the history of Czech brewing, trying everything from wheat beer, to Bernard Dark, to pilsner, and Trautenberk APA, each served out of teeny tiny beer mugs. We definitely overstayed our tour allotment but Jan being the friendly and caring guide that he was continued to pour and pour till it just got too late. Before wishing us well he introduced us to Bonvivant cocktail bar, set to the tone of a 1920’s New York speakeasy, where young Michael took care of us until the early hours, providing great service and way too much absinthe.

Absinthe served at BonVivant, Prague

For anyone in Prague interested in learning more about the huge influence beer has had in Prague, and the Czech Republic as a whole, I highly recommend Prague Food Tours and our guide Jan!

Nostravi, cheers to your health!

I won the Ultimate Gourmet Escape to Hobart, Tasmania

We’ve all seen those contests on Facebook and Instagram. They’re ever present. But do you ever sit back and think to yourself, who actually wins them? Would you believe it if I told you I won 3 in one week!

It all started with a raffle at artesian brewer Moon Dog. I had a couple of casual beers on a Saturday afternoon and before I knew it I walked away with a complimentary case of their intense annual brew Jumping the Shark. A few days later I had entered a contest on Facebook sponsored by local food guide The Urban List Melbourne and Crown Melbourne. I had won $200 to dine at world acclaimed Japanese restaurant Nobu. It was delicious of course.

But when my Instagram @Leeveca was pinged as the winner of The Ultimate Gourmet Escape presented by finedininglovers.com I couldn’t believe it. The prize included economy flights for two people to Hobart, Tasmania valued at $800, one night’s accommodation at MONA Pavilions valued at $700, MONA Gallery entry valued at $50, and dinner for two at Franklin Restaurant valued at $200.

When my friend Renee planned her visit from the US I gave her the ultimate ultimatum. In addition to adventuring around Melbourne, down the Great Ocean Road and across to Phillip Island, sailing the Whitsundays and snorkelling the Great Barrier Reef, she had to make a hard decision. Visit Australia’s most iconic city Sydney, or go rogue by adventuring to Tasmania to cash in my Ultimate Gourmet Escape prize. It was a no brainer, Tassie won.

After stepping off a 24-hour flight to Melbourne from Philadelphia via LAX and traveling by Sky Bus into Southern Cross Station, I quickly ushered her to my apartment in Richmond to shower, grab a quick bite and pack a small bag. A few hours later we were back at the airport sipping wine in the Qantas Lounge awaiting our flight to Hobart. Jetlag would have to wait.

View from Coal Valley Vineyard, Tasmania

Franklin is one of the hottest restaurants in Hobart right now and deservingly so. The kitchen is the epi-center of this simplistic, cement and timber themed eatery. Dining at the bar, our favourite part was observing the chefs expertly prepare each plate individually; taking their time as if it was their first. I envied both their patience and precision as there was definitely no rush to get it wrong.

Periwinkles @ Franklin Restaurant

Everything bar one dish was awesome. We experimented with periwinkles, a small sea snail with a surprisingly long body and questionably mushy finish. Not your typical escargot. We fought over the last oyster, bite of kingfish and wallaby tartare. The gamey wagyu however let us down. Renee comfortably slept off her jetlag that evening in the picturesque Victorian era-restored hotel Hadley’s Orient.

Boutique Wine Tours Tasmania led us on a journey the next day through the historic town of Richmond and to sample the famed pinot noir of the Coal River Valley. Having been through here a few times prior, David who guided the tour exceeded my expectations as we visited the oldest church, goal and bridge in Australia (just saying the country isn’t that old), sipped quality pinot and sparkling at my favourite family owned winery Pooley Wines, and tasted chilli cheddar and more outstanding cheese at Wicked Cheese. The hospitality at Richmond Tasting House as Renee tried the local whiskies and I sat trying all the food samples on repeat, was a highlight.

Oldest Bridge in Australia, Richmond, Tasmania

That evening we were welcomed into MONA Pavilions, one of 8 uniquely designed apartments that are situated on the museum property facing the River Derwent, each named after a famed Australian architect or artist, going for $700 a night! Luckily it was my birthday at midnight so we celebrated with the complimentary bottle of Moorilla Estate’s Muse Brut while ensuring we made the most out of the place, the Beatles turned up through each modern speaker fitted in the wall units and sipped our sparkling on the veranda overlooking the river. Ours was coincidentally named Robin, which is Renee’s middle name.

MONA Pavilions

The Source, the very upmarket and nationally respected contemporary, French-inspired restaurant at MONA was our biggest and most frustrating disappointment. While our server Alice was spunky and friendly, our sommelier appeared strangely depressed. The atmosphere, which seemed like a dated hotel function room, didn’t compliment the $200pp price tag for the 5-course degustation plus wine pairings. While I finished every bite of the Morton bugs with apple, wasabi and lime and the scallop gnocchi using a golden spork, I commented, “wow that was so interesting!” And “oooh, this is so weird.” But Renee said it right at the end, as we requested a cheese plate over dessert and found that to be one of the best bits. She said, “For $200 I don’t want an interesting meal, I want a delicious one.” So true, despite us both being very passionate about food, every dish definitely challenged by palette.

Golden spork @ The Source

Before flying out we spent the morning nursing our hangovers with Xavier, the fantastic host at the Moorilla Estate cellar door while working through a tasting flight of both the wines and Moo Brew beers.

Lisa & Renee @ Moorilla Cellar Door

We then entered MONA – the wacky Museum of New Art. The exhibition featured the works of Marina Abramovic and it was weird and wonderful. Dark spaces contained videos of people screaming at the top of their lungs, of a woman frantically biting her nails, and a rice counting room where we had to leave our phone and watches behind after putting on a lab coat. Once we entered the room of complete silence we were separated, then a scoop full of rice was presented in front of us. We sat there for about 15 minutes and I thought to myself, to work here for hours staring at people staring at rice in silence would be insane. We then ended the day with a tour of Moorilla Estate, yes more wine.

Mona grounds

MONA installation

Marina Abramovic

MONA Gallery tunnel

On our journey home we watched the sunset from the airplane window all the way back to Melbourne. It was a memorable birthday with an old friend in a beautiful part of the world. A special thanks to finedininglovers.com for making it all possible.

For more ideas on what to do in Tasmania check out my previous post: My Tasmanian Secrets

Adventuring the Great Ocean Road

“Iconic Australia,” they say. “Car stopping scenery,” they’ve boasted. “Breathtaking natural wonders,” I read.

And it’s all true. The 243-kilometer stretch of road along Victoria’s Southeast coast is certainly to be admired. Even better, as a first timer I learned that what I like to lazily refer to as the GOR (Great Ocean Road) is the world’s longest war memorial; built from 1919 to 1932 in remembrance of those who died in WWI by it’s own returning soldiers.

Just like them we had a plan. Luckily though we averaged more than 3 kilometers a month. Leaving early on a Saturday morning we took the highway coupled with some back roads and traveled inland for about 4 hours directly to Warrnambool, the largest city along the Road just near its start. From there, we slowly made our way along the coast back toward Melbourne while seeing what was on offer.

Great Ocean Roadtrip

And as far as Warrnambool is concerned I’ll tell you what’s on offer. Kermond’s Hamburgers is its biggest claim to fame and rightfully so! This old-school joint, still serving thick malted milkshakes in white aprons, was packed to the rafters. They keep the menu simple: burger, fried onions and bun. Customize it with normal stuff: tomatoes, lettuce, cheese or Aussie add-ons i.e. fried egg, beetroot, mayo. “Every bite of that vinegar jalapeno was like heaven in my mouth,” my Aussie travel companion slash foodie Nidya, slurred with her last bite.

Kermond’s Hamburgers Bag

Kermond’s Hamburgers Diner

Kermond’s Hamburgers Sign

We left excited to officially start our GOR journey but were quickly disappointed once we entered Allansford Cheese World. With a name such as Cheese World they set pretty high expectations. I mean, we practically did a 180 to get there as one would assume according to their advertising that there would be a monumental amount of cheese coupled with delicate wine tasting. What we experienced though was a service station, fast-food restaurant, Yellowtail retailer and tourist shop rolled into one. In the back, in the small room labeled Cheese, we were resurrected by delectable aged cheddars and somehow walked away with a varietal of 5 hefty wedges to consume over the weekend.

Cheese World

We traveled on and just as we began to smell the salty sea air and the coast came into view the sky turned overcast and it began to drizzle. We pulled off at the first few scenic lookouts to get some early snaps in a foggy view of the cerulean ocean contrasted against amazing limestone formations. I was starting to panic that my once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to snap the much anticipated – the whole reason we drove for hours and hours – this is not really happening I’m sure it will clear up any second – no really, is it seriously raining – iconic rock formations would be ruined by fowl weather.

Scenic Drive Great Ocean Road

King of the World

Great Ocean Road Sign

Finally we reached the holy grail of Port Campbell, home to the famed Twelve Apostles (now actually ten) and “heart of the Great Ocean Road”. The tourist buses lined the parking lot and the selfie sticks were endless. I was thankful that I canceled the tour I booked six months ago and was here on my terms, or at least in a small group of intimate friends thanks to Wes’ amazing patience and driving skills.

But we were fast about it while still taking it all in. My head unknowingly blocked endless selfies and my hair whipped against my face causing a uni-brow in nearly every picture. Just as we were about to depart and began walking away the clouds cleared and the sun shimmered causing the right light on the striking water. It was stunning. Camera out, I finally got my shots. We could conclusively rest for the evening.

Lisa Vecchio at Twelve Apostles

Twelve Apostles Uni-brow

Ten Apostles

Selfies Twelve Apostles

Twelve Apostles

In Apollo Bay, our 4-bed lofted studio at Coastal Motel offered the right mix of comfort and location just across from the beach and walking distance to all of the charming restaurants and shops in town. Even better, we had a heap of cheese to consume along with boutique wine and beers we brought with us. In fact, the week prior I had just won a case of 14% (ABV) Jumping the Shark (Hungarian oak barrel-aged saffron’d imperial red ale aka intense) from Melbourne craft brewers Moon Dog and needed a team to consume them with. The Fonz couldn’t have done it alone either.

Sunday morning we were back on the road heading inland to explore Great Otway National Park and the Otway Fly Treetop Adventures. Word to the wise, the winding, twisting, I-was-near-vomiting curves of the road to get there are to be cautioned about. But for real, my window was rolled down and my head was hanging out like a fatigued dog. $25 is a steep fare to walk on steel structures at the top of some trees and better value if you opted for their zip lining tours albeit for a much heftier price. We proudly boasted that between four of us we had zip lined in South Africa, Peru, and Laos so gave that a pass. But at 25 meters above the ground, the lush rainforest and distinct natural fauna made for a unique walk and we had no regrets for the experience, despite us nauseatingly needing to snake back the way we came once in the car.

Otway Fly Group Shot

Caterpillar in Otway National Park

Big Tree in Otway Park

Sky Tower at Otway Fly

Otway National Park

Friends at Otway Fly Adventures

Further along the coast sat the most amazing pub in the small town of Wye River. Wye Beach Hotel is more than just a charismatic beachfront bar and restaurant. Its exquisite food, coupled with an unexpected local beer selection and epicurean wine list was remarkable. For a true quiet holiday off the grid I’d recommend staying at one of the small hillside lodges. We closed our evening off with a curry back at local yet upmarket Apollo Bay Hotel before our final stretch home the following day.

Wye River Pub

Friends at Wye River

Surf at Wye River

Wye River Beach

Some of the best and curviest parts of the drive are around the quintessential beach town of Lorne. Shopping, restaurants, bars and beach – this popular spot with Melbournians was very busy on the sunny Monday. Luckily we were able to snag a table for breakfast at Lorne Beach Pavilion overlooking the beautiful sea to the sweet sound of children running and crying everywhere. Full on avocado smash, we parked ourselves at the edge of the sand and took in a few rays before continuing on and passing under the famed Great Ocean Road sign.

Relaxing in Lorne

Lorne Beach

Great Ocean Road Lookout

Great Ocean Road Sign

Now here’s the best part of coming home. We missed out, or actually intentionally avoided the popular seaside towns of Anglesea, Torquay, Jan Juc and others on our way back to the city in order to side track to the Bellarine Peninsula just outside of Geelong.

Terindah Estate and Jack Rabbit Vineyard share both a driveway and the coastline offering picturesque backdrops of vine against sea to sip against yet are two separate wineries. Applause to Will at Terindah for an exquisite presentation of their wines and scoring us a seat in the fully booked out restaurant to taste beautiful kangaroo, dory and lamb. Terindah was an all around standout! Their Chardonnay soft and buttery, Pinot Gris and Sauv Blanc surprisingly untraditional and their Shiraz/Viognier and Pinot Noir no brainers. I bought them all and want to come back again and again and again. So I will…

Terindah Estate Group Shot

Brisbane’s become cooler than me

Everyone always digs on Brisbane. Even when I first moved to Australia it was all “it’s too small; everything closes early; there’s nowhere good to eat.” Compare it to likes of Sydney or Melbourne, and yeah, I get it. But guess what haters, at some point since moving away a year and a half ago, Brisbane’s upped its ante.

I always said if I could have the culture of Melbourne coupled with the weather of Brisbane I would be set for life. Now, I’m not going to go as far and say it’s been accomplished but seriously Brisbane, you’re picking up your weight.

On my most recent visit I was blown away at the duck liver parfait served at James Street’s trendy Gerard’s Bar. In fact, I added it on my “best thing ever” list and that was even after devouring truffle salami and mackerel tartare. Could the Brisbane dining scene be creeping in Melbourne’s wake?

And as for Fortitude Valley, the once seedy and still may be but only if you don’t know where to go now that Brisbane is cool, nightlife neighborhood, I didn’t go out ‘in’ the Valley but rather ‘under’ the Valley. Greaser, an American themed bar is housed in the cellar of a 130-year-old heritage building offering craft beers, American imports and a stellar whiskey list on the side of classic hot dogs.

Sure, I was still living in town when the hippest thing was old Queensland cottages being converted into uber-chic bars like Alfred & Constance, Kettle & Tin and Sixes & Sevens – as they all have uber-cool names too, but I hear even ‘hippie-haven’ West End has transformed itself upmarket with some new additions in its pocket.

I think it goes without saying another area where Brisbane hasn’t failed us is the craft beer front. From my old hang The Scratch to Tenerife’s Tippler’s Tap and their recent Southbank prodigy Tomohawk Bar and let’s not forget the micro-brewers Green Beacon and classic Bacchus Brewing, Brisbane is where its at.

What’s still not cool is having to leave an establishment to go find a bathroom somewhere down the street rather then in the bar/restaurant/café, but over time you may just get that right too, Brisbane.

In the meantime, I recognize there’s all the extra stuff that even made Brisbane cool back when I was living there. An awesome music scene, a laid back life style and pristine beaches in an arm’s reach, so yeah Brisbane, maybe you were cool all along.

Read more about my adventures in Brisbane here.

Beer sampling at Bacchus Brewery

Beer events at The Scratch

Local band Ball Park Music

‘Cool’ West End bar, The End

How I accidentally became an AFL fan

Okay I’ll admit. I like AFL.

The revelation came to me last night during the semi-finals of Hawthorn vs. Port Adelaide. My eyes were focused, my pulse was racing and the comments coming from my mouth were volatile. In fact, I never anticipated when entering the dark, unassuming warehouse of Moon Dog Craft Brewery that I would witness a large screen projecting the second most awaited game of the season on its back brick wall. Hipsters don’t like football. But Melbourne hipsters do.

And that’s what I think makes it all more appealing. It’s a game like nothing else; call it football or footy or Aussie Rules. It’s a sport that combines the skills of soccer and rugby with a very visually stimulating set of athletes – tall and lean, toned arms and quick speed.

My second live AFL game at the MCG

Maybe it’s the fact that Melbourne breeds AFL. There are currently 18 teams in the Australian Football League (AFL), half of which are based in Victoria and around Melbourne. It’s a bit of a religion, and during football season you better know which team you support.

I’ll fess up though, I don’t have a team. Nearly a year and a half living in Melbourne and I just can’t choose. I live in Richmond, yet previously lived with a Geelong supporter, casually dated a guy who went for Essenden, but then again Hawthorn is number one. There was also that one time that I partied with a handful of the boys from the Sydney Swans, my other housemate went for Fremantle, and I used to live in Brisbane so have a soft spot for the Lions even though they aren’t very good. You can now see my predicament.

I can only blame this on the boys. Living with two faithful AFL fanatics for a year seemed to have influenced more than I would have thought. During football season our townhouse became an AFL haven. I didn’t have a choice in the matter. From watching countless matches I learned about goals, handballs and kicks. I could associate names and numbers with those players I deemed as hot and which teams they played for.

What pushed me over the edge was my voluntary entrance into the work tipping (betting) pool that lasted the entire season. I’m proud to say I came in 4^th place, which is pretty darn good for a first timer. Because there was potential to win a few hundred bucks, I even surprised myself by checking the scores on my phone over the weekend and ensured I got my bets in on time while traveling overseas.

The best part about the madness of football appreciation in Melbourne is that Richmond, the neighborhood I live in, is where the action takes place. The MCG (Melbourne Cricket Grounds) is the 13^th largest stadium in the world, and can host 100,024 people. Because there’s a guaranteed game every weekend during season, along with the fact that all of the pre-game bars are a short walk from my residence, whether I want it or not, I’m surrounded by AFL hype. Plus, the large stadium lights are now an iconic symbol of what I’ll always remember Melbourne by.

Melbourne Skyline and the MCG from my old rooftop

The biggest game of the year, the Grand Final, is scheduled for this coming Saturday. And while I think it would be an experience of a lifetime to attend, the cost for the ticket is what is dissuading me. At the least, I can rest assured that instead of being turned off by the madness that is Grand Final Day at the MCG in Richmond, I welcome the sport and all that comes along with it.

Queenstown: A Solo Adventure

I intently stared out of the window, camera in position as we descended out of the cloudbank and into view of the vast snow tipped mountains called the Remarkables. This landscape is absolutely extraordinary.

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The plane began to shake as we entered the windy valley between the incredibly close mountain ranges, then all of the sudden, oomph. My head smacked the side of the window and my tray table unfastened itself from the locked position. Panic. We must have dropped a few feet before leveling out again. “Don’t worry,” said the flight attendant over the intercom. “It’s just the wind between the mountains, nothing to be alarmed about.”

Welcome to Queenstown! A buzzing town of snow bunnies crossed with adventure sports, breathtaking scenery and world-renowned pinot noir sipped against the backdrop of white capped peaks.

“Are you skiing?” “Snowboarding then?” “So, what are you doing here?” My reply was simple, I’m here to eat well and drink wine. In a town where every other backpacker, boys weekend or family vacation seem to hit the slopes or jump off either one of the tallest or oldest bungy’s in the world, is it possible to enjoy yourself as a single traveler not in the slightest interested in the above? Sure is. I’d even rate Queenstown as not only my number one favorite destination in New Zealand but at the top of my books all around. So what’s there to get up to?

The Bars:

I hung with the locals at Atlas Beer Café, deemed Queenstown’s home of craft beer including microbrew Emerson’s (go with the English Porter on the hand pump) along with some guest taps and locally sourced food, like the lick smacking steak with demi-glace and Café de Paris butter, served with a side salad and fries.

The Find, previously known as The World Bar, was a great place to go solo. Maybe it’s just because Queenstown, unlike many Aussie bars, actually have bar stools at the bar. There’s nothing better than saddling up at the bar for a snack staring up at the teapots which house cocktails for the backpackers who trickle in later in the evening.

And lastly, cozy, dimly lit places like The Bunker and Bardauex offer extensive New Zealand wine collections and a soothing, chilled out atmosphere with big comfy sofas around outdoor fire pits or indoor blazes.

This is between all of the countless bars and nightclubs including Cowboy’s, Winnie’s and Searle Social Club amongst many other late night spots where you can find inebriated late teens and early twenty-something’s, and myself on one or two occasions, dancing the night away.

The Wine:

But then let’s not forget it was the wine I came for.

The Winery is a storefront that offers a taste of over 80 different New Zealand wines. Grouped by variety, the philosophy of this place is simple, yet expensive. Insert your “wine card” and choose from a taste, half glass, or full glass of some of the most desired wines in the region. At about an average of $5 a taste, I tried a few high-end Pinots then called it day.

This was after I went on my Queenstown Trail: Original Wine Tour just the day before. Lance, a 20 year wine-guide veteran led us to four different wineries in the Gibbston Valley, Central Otago. I’d rate them as such:

Best Tasting Room: Gibbston Valley Winery – set in New Zealand’s largest wine cave

Best Tasting Host: Waitiri Creek – Jason, the vineyard manager of this family owned winery passionately and simply broke down the chemistry of wine making into terms us normal-folk could understand

Best Wine: Remarkable Wines – only winery where I enjoyed the whole range; walked away with the 2009 Pinot Noir

Best Notoriety: Amisfield – while I can’t afford their both delicate and elegant vintages, Will and Kate famously made a stop here on their recent visit

The Food:

When in New Zealand it’s all about the lamb, oysters and prime cuts of beef.

I felt I was back in Melbourne while dining at Madame Woo, an eclectic modern Asian restaurant with delectable sticky pork belly dishes and thick curry’s set to tune of some of my favorite bands like the Kooks and Cold War Kids.

While Vudu Café is rated the number one brunch spot, you’d be lucky to score a seat. Instead, Bob’s Weigh Café was a smaller, simpler option serving great muesli and rumored the best coffee in town.

The Great Outdoors:

Skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing aside, in town there are still a few options.

While the number one activity is to ride the Skyline Gondola up Bob’s Peak, I decided to take the bolder way up: my two feet. It took an hour from the base to zig zag through the forest up the mountain following the Tiki Trail. I’m not going to say it was easy, but nothing any reasonably fit person couldn’t handle with a few huff and puff’s in between Gatorade guzzling breaks. Even better, the trail was absolutely quiet. Only every so often I’d run into another hiker passing down on the trail. The best part was finally reaching the top and the breathtaking views over Lake Watakipu. Once at the summit there are a few options from dining, bungying, zip-lining, more hiking or the luge. And while the luge came highly recommended from a charming traveler I met, after standing in line for an hour in freezing rain sandwiched between two families with small, irritating children, my ride down the ‘scenic track’ was more of an escape effort if anything. With the rain coming down too heavy to hike back down Bob’s Peak, I coughed up the steep fair of $19 for the Gondola ride back into town. The People:

And none of my above experiences would have been so great if I was truly alone in it all. There were kind, approachable people that I met along the way. From an impromptu pub-crawl to discover the town with a friendly Norwegian, to the American and Aussie girls from my wine tour who invited me along to dinner and the handsome Irish boy who bought me chocolate/chocolate-chip ice cream. It was only on the last day as I sat in a café to escape the cold and rain before flying back to Australia that I had a sense of being alone, but luckily a book and one last English Porter did the trick.

Yes Please! An Evening of Beer and Cheese

Shout from the rooftops, it’s Good Beer Week! The much anticipated annual event offers hundreds of food and beer pairings, educational classes, tap take overs and more spread across the city. Without spoiling myself too much I attended Yes Please! An Evening of Beer and Cheese at Mr. Wolf in St. Kilda.

I’ll be honest though, I signed up for this event after one too many pints at an Irish pub in South Yarra based on the loose requirements of a cost under $50 and inclusion of cheese. It was advertised as pairing of Italian cheese and beer, and my expectations were low. I know nothing about the craft beer scene in Italy, and despite having an affinity for cheese, it’s strictly superficial. I was even less impressed initially with the 6 pm start, restricting any opportunity for dinner prior, and finally 30 minutes later we got our first sampling. Grouped at high tables seating 8, my friend and I joked with the strangers how the absence of dinner coupled with the aroma of pizza coming from the dining room was a ploy to direct us to eat in the restaurant post event.

But we were wrong. Despite a disorganized introduction from Will Studd, representative from Calendar Cheese, and what appeared to be animosity, although some suspected it was playful banter, with Leonardo Di Vincenzo from Birra Del Borgo, when our first platter was presented to the table we couldn’t believe our eyes. I’m not a fan of sharing at these types of events, portions can often be cheap and you end up politely giving the last piece to a stranger despite secretly wanting it for yourself. This was not the case however, the value for the cost was applauding.

We began with Mauri ‘Bontazola’ Gorgonzola Piccante Pasturo, Italy and Mauri “Bonta della Bonta’ Dolce Pasturo, Italy, both coupled with Birra Del Borgo ‘Reporter’. In simple terms, we tried two gorgonzola’s, the first being harder, more blue with an intensity in the flavour compared to the ‘dolce’ which was softer and smooth. They both were a great accompaniment to the tobacco porter, which we learned basically contained fermented tobacco, dipped into the brew like a giant tea bag to infuse the flavour.

The Mauri ‘Cave Ripened’ Tallegio Pasturo, Italy, is a cheese matured in caves in the Italian Alps, a very rare occurrence and the Mauri family being one of the only ones left doing so. The cool and humid environment allows for bacteria to grow on the outside, making the rind yeasty in flavour but edible once washed. It was so creamy, coupled with the imperial pilsner ‘My Antonia’. I loved the sweet beginning and the bitter aftertaste. This pairing was also my favourite of the day, but it was still a very hard decision. At this stage we reached the half-way point and I was already feeling my stomach stretch. All the sudden I began to regret my snarl remarks about minimal breadsticks at the start and skipping dinner.

A special guest appearance from Giorgio Cravero from Cravero cheese had the group educated about parmesan. The Cravero family of the mountains of northern Italy has been producing parmesan since 1855 and is now in its fifth generation. He told us that out of only 370 producers, 90% are just average. This is coming from a cheese predominately consumed only in Italy. While the cheese we tasted was aged 29 months, this is fairly old for a parmesan. Wrapped in foil so it didn’t oxidize, we were instructed to squeeze then taste, although for most of us the cheese was quite dense and resulted in nothing. Giorgio recommended parmesan goes great with a sparkling white wine, but I found the American pale ale, ‘ReAle’, really drinkable with its caramel malts offering a sweetness mixed with a spicy and bitter finish.

We finished with Il Forteto Pecorino Toscano DOP Stagionato Tuscany, Italy coupled with ‘ReAle Extra’, an IPA and Antica Formaggieria Pecorino Romano Lazio, Italy with ‘Hoppy Cat’ Cascadian dark ale. Pecorino Romano is claimed to be the original cheese, before parmesan. This is because pecorino comes from sheep, and sheep have come before cows. All pecorino’s are made in Sardinia, in southern Italy. They were both big and salty, like a gulp from the ocean with a bit of stink to it and the Hoppy Cat was much lighter in colour than expected, a dark ale rather than a black IPA.

I walked into Mr. Wolf hungry with small expectations in regards to the beer but waddled out with an appreciation for new cheese and hand on the back to Birra Del Borgo who make not only hip labels, but stellar beers.

These Two Eyes!

Welcome to These Two Eyes! Follow along for travel, food and experience recommendations across the world!

Breweries

Living Life in Earls Vegas (aka Earlsfield, London)

Where is Earlsfield?

Why is Earlsfield called Earls Vegas?

Here are 8 reasons to visit Earlsfield:

1. The Great Outdoors

2. Pubs in Earlsfield

3. Brunch in Earlsfield

4. Coffee in Earlsfield

5. Craft Beer in SW London

6. Shopping

7. Location

8. Community

Drinking Kölsch in Cologne

Christmas Markets in Bruges

Eating Prague Craft Beer & Food Tasting Tour

I won the Ultimate Gourmet Escape to Hobart, Tasmania

Adventuring the Great Ocean Road

Brisbane’s become cooler than me

How I accidentally became an AFL fan

Yes Please! An Evening of Beer and Cheese

Where is Earlsfield?

Why is Earlsfield called Earls Vegas?

Here are 8 reasons to visit Earlsfield:

1. The Great Outdoors

2. Pubs in Earlsfield

3. Brunch in Earlsfield

4. Coffee in Earlsfield

5. Craft Beer in SW London

6. Shopping

7. Location

8. Community

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